rear axle upgrade

[blkTJ]

$12,000 + KA-BLAMMMM! :bonk:

well, if you don't go with the aluminum housing the rear may be as little as $3500 with ARB(based on an ad I saw in JP). Front, not really sure.

It's all based on what Erik said, after replacing bent axle shafts and rebuilding lockers. It woulda been smart to get the bullet proof stuff right off the bat.

[maddmike]

maybe i should just trade in the jeep for a buggy, done! eliminate all those intermediate, pesky steps in the way!

[swbooking]

DO IT! and give me a ride once you get it

[Kodiak Spirit]

Hey! make sure the buggy has a front clip from a CJ, and then you can call it a jeep....

[NAILER341]

$12,000 + KA-BLAMMMM! :bonk:

i wish. that'll have to be my next upgrade

[Long&Low]

This may hurt some folks' feelings, but throwing any money at a D35 is a waste, unless your paying someone to remove it.

[aston]

X2. If I could do it over I would not spend a cent on the D35. Learn from my mistake.

[miguelitojeep97]

my buddy just bough the sweetest rig! Its nto streetlegal but...Atlas, HP D60 F/r w/35 splines ARB in front detroit rear. 104 wheelbase. super slick custome BEEFY long arm walker evans beadlocks wrapped in 39 inch Krawler red labels, full hydro steering racing seats the whole dang thing for $12,500. I mea this thing could race through Sledgehammer.

BUT...it is not streetlegal. Just to throw out that idea. I personally have enjoyed building up my jeep MYSELF

[sahara0207]

:2:just remember you can beef thoes 30/35 combo as much as you want but the gears and housing will still be weaker then a D44. heck 2200 for a brand new d44 rear with arb, gears, chromoly shafts all 33 spline... 2c

then im only 19 year old kid...

[JeepGal]

before you guys give advice, you should really read what hes saying:

i'm keeping the 3.73 gears and 31-32" tires for quite a while. i will be putting an ARB locker in the axle. it's been recommended to me to polish the turd (dana 35) as the ARB and 31 spline shafts are much stronger than the stock parts and should do the trick as long as i stay at 31's or 32's

the only thing i want to know is: has anyone ever broken a super 35 kit running 33" or smaller tires?

I dont personally know anyone. I have heard a story or two (online) of someone doing something stupid and breaking one...


So heres some advice from personal experience...

I ran 3:73's on 33's with a D35(unlocked) for years and years. I ran many of the harder (not hardest) trails in Moab, Ive run Rubicon multiple times. I run all the local stuff. Keep your foot out of it, know your limits, and have some finesse and youll be fine.

The same logic would apply if you were to run a locker. Use it only when you need it. Dont hop. Dont power through an obstacle. Use some finesse. Get the super35 kit for insurance. At least if you break a 35, its easy to find a replacement

I think if you really feel that youre going to stay at this level for a while (Im still happy with this kind of wheeling), then youll be fine with the super35. Also, for some extra added insurance, Superior has a new truss for the d35 as well.

I did end up upgrading to a d44 and lower gearing. I stumbled into a great deal I couldnt pass up, or Id still be running that set-up.

Good luck with your decision.

Tam

[paulhead]

before you guys give advice, you should really read what hes saying:





I dont personally know anyone. I have heard a story or two (online) of someone doing something stupid and breaking one...


So heres some advice from personal experience...

I ran 3:73's on 33's with a D35(unlocked) for years and years. I ran many of the harder (not hardest) trails in Moab, Ive run Rubicon multiple times. I run all the local stuff. Keep your foot out of it, know your limits, and have some finesse and youll be fine.

The same logic would apply if you were to run a locker. Use it only when you need it. Dont hop. Dont power through an obstacle. Use some finesse. Get the super35 kit for insurance. At least if you break a 35, its easy to find a replacement

I think if you really feel that youre going to stay at this level for a while (Im still happy with this kind of wheeling), then youll be fine with the super35. Also, for some extra added insurance, Superior has a new truss for the d35 as well.

I did end up upgrading to a d44 and lower gearing. I stumbled into a great deal I couldnt pass up, or Id still be running that set-up.

Good luck with your decision.

Tam

Good point Tam. I ran my D35 with 33's open for a while on some gnarly trail's (ask Rat) was borderline careless but never broke anything. As far as an upgrade I've put an 8.8 in both my YJ and XJ and have so far spent less than $600 both axles! Got one with 4.10s for my XJ running 33's and got an super88 for my YJ which of course adds to the tab but not much. The 8.8 (much stronger than D44) has by far has more potential for going up (and you will want to go up) and one can be found with 4.10's or you choice of gearing for $250-300 easy.

[Britain]

I likey my 60's...

[JeepGal]

I likey my 60's...

Ive seen where you play, you SHOULD like your 60's

[mrblaine]

and you still end up with c-clips so if you do break you are screwed...

the c-clips alone are reason to ditch the 35.

Again Mike, my advice holds, but this issue posted has now been addressed quite nicely by Superior.

They now have a kit in pre-production that eliminates the 35 c-clips and includes a pair of alloy replacement 27 spline axles with Set 10 bearings.

It will also very soon be offered for the Super 35.

As a stand alone upgrade, it mitigates many of the fears folks have running c-clip shafts and provides a margin of safety that wasn't available before.

Their recommended tire size is 33" and smaller.

[igofshn]

My TJ ran the S35 and 35's for 5 years before I sold the Jeep. It never gave me any trouble and I wasn't afraid to take it on any trails. Just ask eric. We wheeled together numerous times.