Trans cooler

[Jeeperator]

That second setup is pretty slick. Pm me your address so I can ship this clocking ring to you. I still have this bad cold and wont be making the bb run this weekend.

[ROBERTK]

well I just went through all this in my XJ.

Are you adding one to the rad cooler? If so you can run a sub 200$ cooler.
IF you are doing a stand alone single cooler, look in to a Setrab, thats what Lawrence has in his picture and one of only two manufactures I would run. Next you want to make it large! at least 10x12. Then add a Shrouded fan to it.

as experience. I have an AW4 behind a aggressive 4.7l in a Ultra4 style build. the trans is manual run, and no other cooler, other then a setrab 12x11" cooler, a 10" derale fan and a custom shroud that is 100% sealed to the cooler. I can run all day without turning on the fan, unless I hit a obsticle or hill climb ect. then I have to hit the fan for about 1 min every 5 min.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NASCAR-Large...-/230783047380
that cooler is what I basically have, and these go for 275-375$ new.

[Jeeperator]

Hey Robert do you lock the torque converter at all while racing? It probably isnt good with a stock converter. I have had The converter shop(TCS) build me a custom 10.5inch converter for a 4l80e with heavy duty lock up clutch back in the day. Thinking they can do the same with a aw4 converter. Definatly made a difference in mph and time locking it up in the 1/4mile.

[ROBERTK]

I do have a lock up in the converter still.

I tried a TCS converter for teh AW4 that had the lock up removed. But since teh shifter and relay setup I have can allow a lockup and I have the power, I just replaced that converter with a stock on. I think it will be fine. I have yet to use the lock up on it though.

[Lawrence]

IF you are doing a stand alone single cooler, look in to a Setrab, thats what Lawrence has in his picture and one of only two manufactures I would run. Next you want to make it large! at least 10x12. Then add a Shrouded fan to it.

Good eye Robert. I run a Setrab with B&M fan sealed to the cooler and -8 Aeroquip Socketless hose. My setup is plumbed like this: out of the transmission, through the radiator, through the Setrab, and back into the transmission.

[curtis]

I guest I need to do a stand alone one since my radiator doesn't have auto trans ports in it. Damn the cooler is going to be as much as the transmission. OH WELL LOL>

[ROBERTK]

yep.

And with the setrab you have to buy three (well 4) parts all separate unless you get lucky with a good find. You need the cooler, the fittings, and then the mounts. Dont forget to mount it where air can burp out. if its flat then no real big deal. But if you mount it up/down then mount it with at least one port/fitting at the top. Not with both fittings on the bottom feeding up, you will only use a small portion of it and air will get trapped in it.

[Jeeperator]

I done alot of reseach on the hayden 678 which is one size smaller than one I have (679) and it seems to work awesome for the toyota guys. They use a special TRD cooler which is just a reboxed hayden for 4 times the money. That setrab cooler is bad ass but its probably designed for all out racing. I think that big of a cooler is overkill unless your racing. Ive run a stock ford truck 6"X11" stacked plate design cooler in my 500hp supercharged 5000# truck with a 2500 stall converter for years racing and towing. It seem to do its job just fine dont think the trans ever got over 175*. The cooler I have now is even bigger than that so go figure.

[ROBERTK]

you can think what you like. And not saying your wrong.

But my experience up there is actual with a setup almost identical to what he has.

my AW4 stock converter, will get up to 200-205deg, while trail riding. Once I hit a obsticle or a hill climb it climbs, I have seen it as high as 245-250ish before I hit the manufal fan switch (dont have a auto on temp sensor yet). and that with my Setrab 12x10" cooler in the back window out of ALL hot air, and with about 3 quarts of more oil then stock, so even better cooling there.

[Lawrence]

Dont forget to mount it where air can burp out. if its flat then no real big deal. But if you mount it up/down then mount it with at least one port/fitting at the top. Not with both fittings on the bottom feeding up, you will only use a small portion of it and air will get trapped in it.

Tell me more about this Robert, is there any reason to think that you should do something to "burp" the air out of the system if you mount your cooler under the tub, or does it eventually work its way out on its own?

[Jeeperator]

My cooler will be in the front where all the cool air flow is, away from the radiator not mounted to it with zip ties. The fan is ALWAYS working and sucking air through it with the engine running from idle to highway speeds. I tend to try and keep it simple and cost effective. If it dont work I will change it. In my experience a cooler with completly enclosed fan shroud will not cool very well until the fan is turned on. If you dont mount the cooler up front I totally agree with a electric fan but if you mount it under or in the back away from any airflow and dont turn the fan on your cooler isnt doing much. Example: See how long it takes for your engine to overheat without a fan and not moving fast enough for the radiator to exchange the heat. If you keep moving and the airflow is enough it will be ok but as soon as you slow down and idle it will overheat. Dont care what cooler you have or how much you paid, airflow is key without it they all suck.

[CVD]

Curtis,
I'm using a Derale 13700. I simply found the largest one that would fit where I had room (it's up against the floor board, rear driver side, next to the shock tower. It's OK, but certainly not over kill for the AW4. Trans temp are 150 to 180 most of the time, occasionally hitting 200 (slow trails, or up Cajon Pass). That’s not a problem.

On my Death Valley trip last weekend, it got the most extreme workout so far. Twice, we went from the valley floor (-200 ft elevation, approx 100 outside temp); up to about 4,000 ft elevation in 10 miles of rocky road. It was a steady, bouncy, 10 - 15 mph. Trans temps did hit 220 then, the Derale fan was running most of that 45 minute climb. The coolers did their jobs, but don't go with anything smaller than I did.

BTW – My trans fluid path is from the trans, to the front OEM radiator, back to rear cooler, then back to the trans. I am making use of both radiators, which I’m glad we did.

Another thing – Blaine put the transmission temperature sensor directly in the trans pan (not on the input or output connector). So my gauge is showing the temps the inside of the trans is seeing.

Good luck,
Cliff

[aw12345]

Well considering his 1800 stall compared to a 2100-2500 stall the aw4 supposedly has, probably not. His trans only locks the converter in OD or 4th gear so pulling a steep incline in 3rd gear would be the biggest heat maker. I researched it and figure the $50 cooler should be enough for me especially if it mounted in front of the radiator where the freshest coolest air is. If not I will add a small $50 fan in front of it on a temp switch. I like the idea of a remote filter that would add atleast a quart to the capacity and help with cooling also.

Fred added a manual switch so he can lock the converter in 3 th also If I am not mistaken

[Jeeperator]

Surprisingly even with the size of that derale 13700 tube and fin cooler it is only rated at 25,000 gvw. So I must have choose a pretty good stack plate cooler rated at 30,000 gvw. Not sure if I am going to hook up in series to the rad cooler yet, thinking about using it for the power steering if its feasable. Need to temp gun my ps fluid and see how hot it gets.

[Jeeperator]

Fred added a manual switch so he can lock the converter in 3 th also If I am not mistaken

Nope ask him last week it only locks in od. His temps dont get hot enough to worry about it though. That 1800 stall converter is probably pretty effficient also.