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I was lured here by one of the installation articles by jccj7. It was as if he had my CJ7, with only a few minor differences. If you are still around, I'd like to pick your brain about your swap.
My CJ7 is a '78. She ("Betty") has a 304 with a mild cam, Edelbrock aluminum intake, a Holley Truck Avenger carb and Hedman headers (needs exhaust). The carb is a bit big at 670 CFM, so I might swap it for the 470 CFM later or, if I come into some unforeseen $$$, a TBI fuel injection kit. I have an MSD 6AL that will eventually take care of the spark. Also needs brakes and lines, fuel tank and fuel lines.
The tranny is a T18 ( not sure from what) with a Dana 20 t-case. I had hoped for a Dana 300, but that will need to wait. I plan on removing the tranny and t-case, doing a thorough inspection and replacing all the necessary bearings and seals. It currently has no drive shafts, due to the swap of the tranny and t-case. Those I will probably get from Tom Woods.
I bought it with Dana 44s that came from a '78 Scout II. They have (according to the tag) 3.73 gears in them riding on 35" Procomp tires. That seems a bit high for the gearing, so they will likely need to be changed. When doing the axle swap, the PO didn't outboard the spring hangers correctly. On the front, the springs are not straight. By that I mean that they are set more narrow at the main hangers (28.25" on center) to the axles at the stock Scout II width (31") to the shackle mounts (31.5"). This causes the shackles to lean outward at the bottom.
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While doing the swap, the PO decided to do a stretch as well. Not a bad idea, but again, not executed well. The rear hangers are about 4.75 inches too close to each other, which causes the rear shackles to rest up against the frame, which was rebuilt.
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I will have to move the rear main eye hangers forward to correct the length. Moving them forward by 4.75" will still leave me with a wheelbase of 100". Yes, I know that the open frame rail doesn't look too sturdy. It was tied in with the rear bumper, which the PO cut off to sell. Lucky for me, that sale fell through, so I got this beastly bumper. Just have to weld it back on. The thing weighs about 60 lbs.
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Other than that, it needs the usual body rust repair, but not too bad. Just a few small spots in front of the doors and underneath needs a good wire brushing and maybe some new sheet metal and undercoating. Dash plates could use replacing and I'm sure the switches, vent/heater controls need some work.
But hey, if it was easy, everybody would be driving one, right?
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Betty hanging with the ducks.[/CENTER]
My CJ7 is a '78. She ("Betty") has a 304 with a mild cam, Edelbrock aluminum intake, a Holley Truck Avenger carb and Hedman headers (needs exhaust). The carb is a bit big at 670 CFM, so I might swap it for the 470 CFM later or, if I come into some unforeseen $$$, a TBI fuel injection kit. I have an MSD 6AL that will eventually take care of the spark. Also needs brakes and lines, fuel tank and fuel lines.
The tranny is a T18 ( not sure from what) with a Dana 20 t-case. I had hoped for a Dana 300, but that will need to wait. I plan on removing the tranny and t-case, doing a thorough inspection and replacing all the necessary bearings and seals. It currently has no drive shafts, due to the swap of the tranny and t-case. Those I will probably get from Tom Woods.
I bought it with Dana 44s that came from a '78 Scout II. They have (according to the tag) 3.73 gears in them riding on 35" Procomp tires. That seems a bit high for the gearing, so they will likely need to be changed. When doing the axle swap, the PO didn't outboard the spring hangers correctly. On the front, the springs are not straight. By that I mean that they are set more narrow at the main hangers (28.25" on center) to the axles at the stock Scout II width (31") to the shackle mounts (31.5"). This causes the shackles to lean outward at the bottom.
[CENTER]
[/CENTER]While doing the swap, the PO decided to do a stretch as well. Not a bad idea, but again, not executed well. The rear hangers are about 4.75 inches too close to each other, which causes the rear shackles to rest up against the frame, which was rebuilt.
[CENTER]
[/CENTER]I will have to move the rear main eye hangers forward to correct the length. Moving them forward by 4.75" will still leave me with a wheelbase of 100". Yes, I know that the open frame rail doesn't look too sturdy. It was tied in with the rear bumper, which the PO cut off to sell. Lucky for me, that sale fell through, so I got this beastly bumper. Just have to weld it back on. The thing weighs about 60 lbs.
[CENTER]
[/CENTER]Other than that, it needs the usual body rust repair, but not too bad. Just a few small spots in front of the doors and underneath needs a good wire brushing and maybe some new sheet metal and undercoating. Dash plates could use replacing and I'm sure the switches, vent/heater controls need some work.
But hey, if it was easy, everybody would be driving one, right?
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Betty hanging with the ducks.[/CENTER]
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