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Party in the garage


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  • Party in the garage

    I decided to really get cracking on the jeep. Maybe have it rolling by late april. I pulled the steering box and steering shaft. Cleaned it up. (not shown in pics) It was DIRTY. I got tons of greese under my finger nails. It sucks.

    It's much cleaner now. I am getting new hoses and clamps for everything. Plus, the boot is thrashed so I am replacing that too.

    Now onto the bigger deal. I did all I could do for the steering box. But I wasnt done just yet. So, I did this......

    Blocked it up and decided to start working on the flat skid.

    Look at this mess!

    Started with this....

    And ended up with this.....

    I pulled the seats and the center consol so I could get the carpet up and have everything out of my way. I figure I might as well hurculine too while I am down here. Here are the rest of the pics.

    I know it's just a baby step, but I am just setting up to get it all done. Doesnt seam like it will be that bad at all. I figure it will be done sometime in april.

  • #2
    seems all you gotta do is clock your t case a bit flatter. prob more to it than that, but I kow nothing about cjs. rick???

    "in the end... the rocks always win."


    • #3
      Yeah, but to clock a D300 correctly you need to replace the input shaft. The good kits (AA, JBC) include an input shaft with longer splines. There is a kit that is a bit thinner (3/8") than these kits that suggests you get a sleeve for the input shaft to keep good seal engagement, but I opted for the more spendy AA kit to avoid losing any spline engagement. 3/8" is almost 25% of total engagement, so it's safer the JB or AA way. Some have also drilled and tapped new holes in the case, but this is the worst possible way to do it unless you weld some iron in on the inside of the case where you tap the new holes. There are thread bosses in the case that make the case thicker where the threads are. The downside of the AA and JBC kits are the added length. They add 3/4" to the total length. This may be a problem and it may not, it all depends on what else you are doing. When I did mine, I also raised the trans/tcase about 2", so it ended up about a wash on rear shaft lenght. However, this means you need a much longer front shaft. That's when I got the Tom Woods long travel front shaft.

      Also, pretty severe floor pan clearancing is needed in addition to 2" of body lift to get the tcase above the bottom of the frame rails. I ended up with no skid (yet), but I put the crossmember under the tcase so the 1 1/2" x 1/4 wall square tubing protects the tcase from the nasties.

      The plan is to wrap some 3/16" pl around the crossmember for better protection/skiddability. Someday I might decide to beat the floor boards a little harder and get it up high enough to keep the tubing directly under the tcase for protection but also flush with the frame. Maybe.
      1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
      My Jeep

      Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:


      • #4
        Thanks for the info rick. All I got is the clocking ring. I have a 1 inch BL and I am hoping I dont have to go any higher.


        • #5
          Nice Garage!!!
          Ya Savvy?

          Motech Performance