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I am about to pay to re gear, detroit locker and mabe a terra low with a tummy tuck skid plate. I do not need much lift and I am happy with my stock articulation. How much can I reasonably run with my stock arms without compromising my suspension? 3"? I am not worried about flex I just want more clearance for the rocks, future 33" tires that will probably get the tube flat fender and for my rig to hold together when I wheel with the vintage Broncos and Jeeps at Truck Heaven, Bronco peak, The Rubicon and mabe moab. I do not need more articulation than a well equiped leaf-spring CJ.
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You probably could do a budget lift (1 3/4" spacers under the springs) with shocks and a 1" body lift to clear 10.5x33's. Most end up with full kits in the end.
B&T TJ -
There are many more qualified here to address your question than me, however for me, I am running a 05 TJ, with a 3'' S.L. on 33''s, which included the quick disconnects for the sway bar in front. Stock control arms, stock gearing, open diff. I drive Truckhaven and other places close and just did Bronco Peak last weekend for the first time. I love the quick disco's, very nice for handling rough terrain also keeping more tire on the ground for longer periods of time while negotiating the rocks. Bronco Peak connector we did last week was about as rough as I ever want to get. We still bumped and scraped rockers, transfer plate. Thankfully all downhill.
So, I like my set up as it is, and am learning here from others, for me to change up would mean new axles to be able to take the strain of lockers and lower gearing. Presently, I am stock with D35 rear, D30 forward, 307 gearing, stick shift. Just my 2 cents.
BobO"If you have significant difficulty here, dont go any further....it only gets worse".
(Charles Wells)Comment
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Sure it's not 3.73? I'm at 3.07 and it sucks, but if you can manage shtick w/ 33s on 3.07s, I'll be OK for a while I guess!Originally posted by Mtbikbob View PostIf we aren't supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat?
http://jeep.matandtiff.com/
Truth is treason in the empire of lies. -Ron PaulComment
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Pretty sure. Yeah, its tall trying to creep along, but thats what good driving is.Originally posted by Materdaddy View Post"If you have significant difficulty here, dont go any further....it only gets worse".
(Charles Wells)Comment
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there are problems with the stock arms...
1. they don't have flex ends. this means they are very hard on the axle brackets. TJ axle brackets are prone to getting ripped off and tearing anyway.
2. As you get more angle on the arms, the ride gets much harsher. the bumps seem to jolt straight up the arms rather than have the arms move up and down.
3. Your wheelbase gets shorter! the arms have to swing down to aloow for the height and the tires actually move toward the center of the jeep. this may cause rubbing and wierd handling.
4. the thin stock arms are pretty wimpy. on good bounce and they will taco.It's not what you have. it's what you do with what you have.Comment
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My welds on the brackets are already breaking off. Will good reputable short arm kits like rubicon express be enough to keep up with the leaf sprung cjs with lockers and low crawl ratios if I have low gears and lockers too?Comment
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You probably could do a budget lift (1 3/4" spacers under the springs) with shocks and a 1" body lift to clear 10.5x33's. Most end up with full kits in the end.
B&T TJ
I was worried about beating around the bush just invest more when I get what was really needed in the end. Short arm systems sound reasonable. Do many people buy a short arm just to spend even more on a long arm later? I want to get it rite the first time.Comment
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The short arm vs. long arm debate is HUGE... IMO just do a short arm. If you do some searching you can get a good idea of the differences between the two and make your own judgment on which to get.Originally posted by Huntersbo View Post|90 XJ|4.0|AX-15|NP231|RE H&T|TnT Y-Link|RE Coils|BOR Leaves|ACOS|D30/Aussie|8.8/ARB|35" Kevlar MTRs|Custom Exo,Sliders,Bumpers|
!!! outdoorlogic.net !!!Comment
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the Nth degree Gyro joint upgrade kit returns the arms to stock geometry which is a major factor to keeping those welds in shape. The amount of flex will amaze you also.Originally posted by Huntersbo View Postcensored for having an opinionComment
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I want to run 33" tires, a 3.5" lift, 2" tummy tuck. I have done some reading across the internet and it seems that the longer arms make for a more desireable suspenion arm angle at higher lifts. I need to decide if I want heim-joints or urithain bushings. I hear the urithane bushings last longer and ride better at the expense of flex. I hear that without taller tires at equal lifts the long arm has less clearance than the short arm. I suppose I am giving up ride with the short arm but it is a jeep, a tough piece of equiptment that always gets me home.Comment
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until you blow up a power steering pump and have your buddy come get you with his truck and trailer... :wink: :oops: :dunno: :shades: :yay:Originally posted by Huntersbo View Post
you'll be fine with a short arm at 3.5". get the RE or full traction, the arms are nearly identical. :2:Comment
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Why would I blow my power-steering pump? Pumps cost less than suspension. I still appreciate the input. Is there something wrong about longer uritane bushing short arms besieds the fact that they rip the welds on the brackets and have less flex?Comment
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didn't say you would, I did. you never know when somethings gonna go wrong though.Originally posted by Huntersbo View Post
I'd never run urithane bushings on both ends of a control arm. gotta have a joint in there somewhere. urithane is also noisier than rubber.Comment
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What kind of bushinngs come on the short arms without heim-joints? Like Superlift, Skyjacker, Black Diamond, Rough Country, Tough Country. I consider Rubicon Exprress, Full Traction Nth Degree, Fabtech, Skyjacker to be reputable brands but just how improtant are heim-joints?Comment
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