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is a rough country lift worth it?

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  • is a rough country lift worth it?

    as soon as i get my tax return back im lifting my yj (duke)..... im trying to get the most bang for my buck and i was planning on going with a black diamond 3 1/2 in. suspension lift, but then i found a rough country lift that is half an inch higher and about $100 cheaper, also i can add a steering stabalizer and pitman arms for a little more..... any suggestions?

  • #2
    You get what you pay for....

    Other than that, without knowing what kind of trails you wheel or want to wheel can not make any suggestions
    Last edited by nagal; 12-14-05, 01:36 PM.
    Michael

    [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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    • #3
      well ill give a little more detail then, im planning on running crager street lock 15x10 wheels with 33 in. tires..... probably something on tame side because this is my daily driver. Its not really going to see anything to extreme, just mud and a few tractor paths so im not wanting to drop thousands on a skyjacker system or something. after the lift im planning on bumpers, and a few lights. i dont want to put too much money into this jeep because its my first one, but defiantly not my last, and its only got a 2.5L in it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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      • #4
        I had a Rough Country lift on my TJ for a little while. My experience was this.....the bushings wore out and started coming apart with in a month or so, but I also made my junk work out quite a bit as I was learning how my heep handled off road and then I went with Rubicon Express. Now, I haven't the slightest idea if they use the same material for the leaf spring bushings (mine were in the control arms) or not, but if you're going to mostly use it in mud and minor things like that it should be alright.
        Just my .02
        04 Rubicon
        4.5" RE Super Flex
        1" BL
        CV Yoke w/ Driveshaft
        Currie Anti-rock swaybar
        35" el cheapos
        Front Bumper & Rockers

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        • #5
          your 2 cents is appreciated

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          • #6
            I doubt you need the steering stablizer and a lot of people will say the dropped pitman arm will cause you more problems than it solves. I have never ran with a dropped arm so can not say. I would save your money and not buy those two items.

            So with 3-4 inches of lift what are you going to do about your drive shaft?

            What about regearing? with the 4 cyl on big tires (have to assume you are going to go with 33 with that much lift) it will drive like a dog.

            Does the kit come with shocks? How about extended brake lines?
            Michael

            [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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            • #7
              yeah, ive thought about that stuff and my plan is waiting to regear my axles, because i live in a real small town so it barely ever sees any highway, the kit comes with 8000 hydro shocks, but im gonna get optional 9000 nitro's, this is the first time ive done this, so im not too sure about drive shafts and the brake lines....... what would you suggest?

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              • #8
                If you are going with the Rough Country lift, mine didn't come with extended brake lines. It should come with a tcase drop that will get you by until you get a SYE (slip yoke eliminater) and new drive shaft. Thats how I ran mine before I changed lifts. For the brake lines, I think you can relocate them by moving the brackets down until you can get extended ones.
                04 Rubicon
                4.5" RE Super Flex
                1" BL
                CV Yoke w/ Driveshaft
                Currie Anti-rock swaybar
                35" el cheapos
                Front Bumper & Rockers

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                • #9
                  will i have any trouble with just the transfer case drop? i know it would be wise to get the slip yolk, and drive shaft but money is an object here and if i can get by without out it, ill go the cheap route.

                  i talked to the guys at a local four wheel drive shop and they told me the biggest i can go is four inches, which would fit the 33's i want under it so it all seems well and good, if i can manage with out the shaft and such

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by killwhytey07
                    will i have any trouble with just the transfer case drop? i know it would be wise to get the slip yolk, and drive shaft but money is an object here and if i can get by without out it, ill go the cheap route.

                    i talked to the guys at a local four wheel drive shop and they told me the biggest i can go is four inches, which would fit the 33's i want under it so it all seems well and good, if i can manage with out the shaft and such

                    You shouldn't have any trouble with the tcase drop. The only thing I had to do was adjust the linkage so it would stay in 4lo. I don't know if the YJs are like the TJs on how the tcase linkage works or not, but if it is, the kit should have a relocating bracket that keeps the linkage level. I can't really explain how it works, but if you get under your jeep, you should see where the shifter attaches to the linkage so to speak.
                    04 Rubicon
                    4.5" RE Super Flex
                    1" BL
                    CV Yoke w/ Driveshaft
                    Currie Anti-rock swaybar
                    35" el cheapos
                    Front Bumper & Rockers

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      thanks a lot for your help, about a month till ill have this thing set up, but im more excited for it than christmas

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                      • #12
                        My $0.02 ... When I upgraded to 33x12.5s, I made sure the backspacing was at least 3.5" for the new rims. I know that for a TJ combined with any tire wider than 10.5", you need more than stock backspacing or you'll rub components up front.
                        Rim spacers are all over the advertisments in magazines, but Jeepers I've met with killer rigs (and not so killer, too hehe) don't use them often atall. The 3 5/16" backspacing on my Mickey Thompson Classic Locks really set off a more rugged look with the tires outside the flares, too.
                        "Work is the curse of the drinking class" ~Charles Dickens

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                        • #13
                          doesn't anybody care about scrub radius???:dunno: :yay:
                          myJeeprocks.com

                          "in the end... the rocks always win."

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                          • #14
                            Im gonna take the advice of the guys down at trail city (local 4x4 shop) when i buy my wheels and tires for the backspacing .... all i know for sure is i want 33 inch tires and im using a 15x10 cragar street lock wheel, i agree on the agressiveness of having the wheel outside the flare but im not sure i want to have rocks and mud flying everywhere either. I really like the look of the pocket style fender flares but im iffy on cutting into the body of my jeep, and thats the only ones ive been able to find...... just have to wait and see i guess

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                            • #15
                              rough country working great for me

                              I have been running a rough country lift on my yj for al most 3 years and I love it. It flexes great and gives agreat ride on road. I have been running 33s and only a little tire rub issue when doing serious wheeling. Thats just my opinion. I would go for it..

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