Third broken front leaf spring since 3-2011

[GP4Play]

Roger, I can take some time off this week-end if you can use a extra hand or two. I'm on-call so can't play anyway and I have a set of 3/8"x 5" spring bolts if ya need em. Do you have a angle grinder? I can bring mine if not and I have wheels too. Give me a call

[Lumpy Grits]

Best to go to a full radius on the front and back of the axle pads.
Grab some 5/16"x5" center bolts just in case.......
A short section of old spring leaf is worth a try.
How are you going to drill the center hole and cut the OAL for this. Remember you are dealing with very hard heat treated steel.
See how hard it is to cut with a file first.
LG

[6spdYJ]

The 5/16" finr thread socket head cap screw (allen head with straight sides) has the right 1/2" head to fit in the centering stud position in the spring perch.

Ditto Art, definitely add another spring to the top. But if the rears are known to be bad let's get them done too.

[GP4Play]

Yeah mine are 3/8", better to buy new then drill. Might screw warranty up to

[Roger]

Dennis, I really appreciate your offer. I'll take you up on it if I get the spring delivered by Friday. I'll keep in touch with you. I still have your home, cell, & work numbers.

6spdYJ, I have not had a problem with the rear springs.

[GP4Play]

I'm going camping with the family at Hartbar in BB the 13th an 14th but the 20th an 21st I'm on-call an can help, also I have a new cell for work that is always on me #7 one 4-309-02one4

[6spdYJ]

I goofed - again... It's the 3/8"-24 socket head cap screw. 5/15 is the stock size. Aftermarkets are most likely 3/8"

Roger, I'm not questioning the rear leaves at all. My concern is that if the rear brakes are known to not be helping the stopping, that will put a tremendous load on the fronts and cause the wrap and breakage you're having. If they work properly, you may not ned to add the top leaf. I've been looking around a bit and found that the '87-'89 dana 35 had the bigger 10" rear brakes. This leads me to a few questions. Have you checked the condition of the drums and are they within spec? Next, are the automatic adjusters moving freely - and more importantly - are they installed on the proper sides? If they're on the wrong sides, they'll continually be backing the shoes away from the drum. The last thing to offer up is that I looked at the rear wheel cylinder. They have a 7/8" diameter and are listed as being the same as for a dana 44. If you still have a YJ master cylinder, the bore on it is 7/8" as well. Basically, 100 psi at the master cylinder will put 50psi to each wheel cylinder. Keeping in mind that they are the same for a dana 44, I looked up the front wheel cylinders for a '70 F-250 (which would have been a dana 44). They are 15/16" I can't say that they would fit, but a bigger wheel cylinder will allow more pressure to the shoes and may help take some of the load off of the fronts. Rockauto.com has them for $3 each.

While the front springs breaking is definitely a problem, I can't help but think there's something else not doing it's job. Your safety is my main concern here. Sanity is secondary, this would drive me nuts.

[Roger]

I'm certainly not a mechanic! So a lot of your last post is way above my head!! But I thank you for your concern!

I think you may understand what I was trying to say in an earlier post. When the brakes are applied, the front of the Jeep dips way down, way more than any other car or truck I've owned. So it seems the front brakes may be doing all the work. Someone else not on this forum suggested I Install a proportioning valve and adjust it so there is more pressure going to the rear brakes than there is now.

a) what exactly is a proportioning valve?
b) Where is it installed?
C) how would I know if it is adjusted properly?
d) I'm so confused....

[Lumpy Grits]

Roger, call me.
LG

[dirtman13]

a) what exactly is a proportioning valve?
b) Where is it installed?
C) how would I know if it is adjusted properly?
d) I'm so confused....

Device used to control the flow of brake fluid to to each axle. Typically you want more pressure to go to the front brakes. The valve controls that. Mine is mounted on the inside of the frame on the drivers side towards the front. More times than not it's located near your master cylinder.
Mine looks like this.

[aw12345]

It has one look below the mastercylinder where all the the 2 brakelines branch out. Seriously doubt that the brakes cause your spring to break. Still would not hurt to try and improve braking. Simplest first step is to raise the rear wheels of the ground stick it in gear step oin the brakes and see if the rear brakes will hold the wheels from turning. Actually if you lost the proportioning valve you would get more hydraulic brake pressure in the rear, the main function of the proportioning valve is limit pressure to the rear wheels

[vwtipeii]

adjustable version from Wilwood....

[Mitch]

As far as the rear brakes go, I had taken the Jeep to 2 different professional brake shops for service and repair, as well as having Ken inspect and adjust them. Replaced the drums, changed the proportioning valve, changed fluid types, ect. I debated doing the rear disc conversion at on point, but never followed up on it.

And Roger, just teasing on the driving thing, and no, you don't drive it harder that I did

[Lumpy Grits]

Jeep OEM rear brakes have a long history of being weak in stopping. The oversize tires we run just makes it worst.
If you go to disc's in the rear you have to change your P' valve and master cyl to ones than are spec'd for ft/re disc brakes.
LG

[USMC 0369]

[COLOR="darkred"]Runs into the room & screams...

Ford 8.8!!!!



Runs out... [/COLOR]