I got a little thinky...

[6spdYJ]

I figured that would clarify my question a bit better. Since the YJ frame ain't narrowed like the TJ, I figured it may be a bit better.

[6spdYJ]

This may be a dumb question. If I have 2" more adjustment available above the spring after it has no tension, wouldn't it be better to put a 2" longer spring in there and not rely on cranking the adjusters down? I have a 14-250 main and 10-100 tenders. That nets a rate about 74lbs. I'd rather have the spring holding it up as much as possible, instead of having the adjuster compensate. I figure once a spring is unloaded, it's length doesn't really matter.

[inVERt'D]

You're selling the coilovers. This is a good thing I hope.

[6spdYJ]

Patience Grasshopper. I'm selling the other coilovers. I'm going to use the 12's

[inVERt'D]

Guess I must have forgotten you had the 12s. That is good news!

[aw12345]

Yup 10" travel coilovers would have been a waste of time and effort.
12' coilovers will make ya happy when you get it all setup to your liking Ted

[6spdYJ]

If they sell, great. I'll try to turn them into a welder - provided the funds aren't diverted by disaster du-jour... If they don't sell, I'll look into setting them up on the back of the limo.

[6spdYJ]

I'm still trying to make progress. At this rate I think David may beat me to completion.

I have an alignment question. Since I put on the Moabs I have noticed some extra tire wear that indicates excessive toe-in. I have swapped the housing and knuckles but kept the original tie rod assembly. The ends still look and feel tight, but I will have to do a more thorough check to be sure. I have found all sorts of voodoo regarding the proper toe-in. I have yet to find specs that take a larger tire diameter into consideration. Since the stock tire height was 28" and I'm now on 32's, I'll probably aim for 1/16-1/8" toe in at the tread shoulder.

Advice? Thanks in advance - again.

[inVERt'D]

1/16" to 1/8" should be good.

Probably better to make a clean, straight line down at about the center of the tire than to use the tread shoulder. Think lathe for the marking part. The straighter the tires are pointing when you measure, the better--Ackermann and all that. Don't take wooden nickels.




Don't make me look like a hero. Finish before me.

[inVERt'D]

Here's a great write up, in case you have somehow missed it.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/align/align-1.htm

[Ol Man]

Another way is to remove the tires and use a magnet or clamp to hold a piece of angle stock (so it does not bend) on the front disks and measure at your tire diameter.

[inVERt'D]

Another way is to remove the tires and use a magnet or clamp to hold a piece of angle stock (so it does not bend) on the front disks and measure at your tire diameter.

That's a cool idea.

[6spdYJ]

I'm planning to do a combination of upper C gussetts with the lower shock tabs on top of the C. I plan to use my HF 170A flux core with .035 Lincoln wire and hit the joints from both sides. I'm thinking of getting flux core with nickel. Should I get 1%, 1.5% or just go for it with the NR211 Innershield?

[6spdYJ]

Now for a steering question. I've considered a few options for my steering and have come up with something I can't find a description for:steering.doc
It basically allows high steer attachment without the need to double shear the passenger knuckle joints. It also keeps the tie rod joints in the same plane as the passenger side lower rod end. I started looking at the inverted Y/Haltenberger style but I question the ability of the drag link to stay rigid with forces from the drivers side forcing on it mid-shaft.
Let me know what you think.

[6spdYJ]

Finally found a pic of it.