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could use some help figuring out a bit of wobble on the front end

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  • #16
    Got you covered, come by and take a look, hopefully you got the angled bracket. You'll have to do some drilling which means the springs have to come out for access, it was a little tight for me but not impossible.

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    • #17
      sweet! Yea, I'll have to head over sometime this week to see what orientation it goes. Hopefully I have time to put it on this Sunday. When you drilled yours, did you just fix the bracket where it needs to go and drill with the bracket still on there? That seems like the best way to make sure the holes line up perfectly? Jeep should sell their own line of electric drills, every time I touch my jeep I need to drill a hole or hit something with a file, haha!

      Speaking of which, what's the best way to elongate a hole into a slot? I've always just used elbow grease and a round hole file if a hole didn't quite lineup. But I'm getting tired of doing that. Are there drill bits designed to cut sideways, like a CNC drill bit or something that could be used on a hand held drill or a drill press? (would that be considered a router bit like for wood working?)
      Last edited by daniel_buck; 12-12-11, 11:13 AM.
      [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
      www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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      • #18
        For elongating holes you could use something like a die grinder with some rotary files or carbide burrs.
        Kinda like this works like a charm. Find some specifically for steel

        http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_39812_39812

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        • #19
          sweet, thanks

          I see some on other websites that are single and double cut. I'm guessing double cut is a faster cutting bit? is single preferable for the types of metals and things on our jeeps?
          Last edited by daniel_buck; 12-12-11, 06:09 PM.
          [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
          www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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          • #20
            Get the double cut ones or anything that is specifically, made for cutting steel. These things work like a champ.

            Good luck installing your trackbar bracket, just clamp it in place with the body jacked up and the axle hanging as low as possible, to get some room. If need be loosen the shocks and the swaybar links. Then drill the holes, bolt it on and then raise the axle backup to the point the trackbar fits, stick the bolts in, set it on it's wheels and drive a bit then check axle centering. Repeat the latter part till the axle is centered

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            • #21
              Thanks for the tips Is the issue actually getting the track bar up under there? or is the issue creating room to drill? The front went on pretty easy, I was expecting to have more trouble drilling through that thick frame mount, but it wasn't to bad.
              [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
              www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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              • #22
                Originally posted by daniel_buck View Post
                Thanks for the tips Is the issue actually getting the track bar up under there? or is the issue creating room to drill?
                That's pretty much it. Remove the springs, disconnect the shocks and sway bar and should just have enough room for the top bolt if needed. The others are easy after that.

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                • #23
                  Whenever you use a die grinder with a cutting bit, be sure to use gloves, glasses, and wear your collar buttoned up. They throw perfect microscopic spears everywhere and are extremely sharp.
                  God forgives, rocks don't
                  -sons of thunder

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                  • #24
                    thanks yall
                    [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                    www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                    • #25
                      got the rear track bar and the bump stops in all 4 corners without issue, it took alot longer than I would have expected, but it went fairly smooth. I think I'm getting better at working on the jeep. I'm glad I finally have a garage and a driveway to do so! :-)
                      [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                      www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                      • #26
                        Alright, I'm at wits end. My 05 LJ will not stop shimmying over bumps no matter what I do. If I drop the tire pressure below 30 PSI, then I will get full blown death wobble where it wont stop unless I slow down to 25 mph. I've replaced the Track Bar (mopar), Ball Joints (spicer), and Upper & lower control arms (mopar). There is absolutely no play in the steering box, tie rod ends or the wheel bearings, and I've double checked that every nut and bold on the suspension is torqued to spec. The Jeep is stock with the exception of 31" BFG A/Ts.

                        I'm hoping to get some insight on anything I might be missing, because I've looked over everything with a fine tooth comb. I've even had the front end techs at work look at it with me and they're just as stumped. I'm going to align it at work tomorrow, but I've always been under the impression that the toe should only change if somethings bent or I modified the suspension. Any advice would much be appreciated
                        We tried to make the world idiot proof. Now we just have a world full of idiots.

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                        • #27
                          Mine had the same symptom. 45 mph over just the right bump would shake like crazy.
                          Death wobble can be tricky to diagnose. When mine surfaced I spent countless hours checking and tightening. 18k miles on the jeep, three sets of tires, all new steering, different design track bar, ball joints, alignment done myself. Being in a shop I have access to everything I need as well as some of the best techs I ever worked with. I have never had my butt kicked by something this bad. What fixed it was a new steering stabilizer. Go read all the forums and all the "forum experts" will tell you it cant be that. Well if all I did was bandaid the real problem, so be it.
                          All my steering and suspension pivot's I checked with a dial indicator. One of my co workers wrangler with 100k miles had the same problem. fixed it with a track bar and tire balance.
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                          • #28
                            Good steering stabilizer does a good job of masking the problem/ solving it. Check caster make sure it's at the low side of spec.
                            Also make sure the tires and rims in the front have no excessive runout and wobble

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                            • #29
                              Used a upper tierod end on my rubicon express track bar because I really didnt want to drill the stock mount to install the hd heim joint. Noticed the tierod end had the slightest bit of play(~1/16") when wobbleing the steering wheel back and forth. Changed it out for the heim last weekend and no more DW. Goes to show any little bit of play will probably cause DW. Stock steering stab works fine for me too.

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                              • #30
                                It sounds dumb, but have you tried rotating the tires? One out of balance or with separated belts on the front can cause DW.
                                God forgives, rocks don't
                                -sons of thunder

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