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  • TJ Steering Upgrade

    I'm looking to upgrade my steering. I bent mine on the trail last weekend, so I guess its time. Alot of the research I've done, seem to indicate that people like the Currie set up. I like the strength and durabilty of a dom/heim set up. I've used Bullet Proof steering on my YJ in years past and the kit never let me down. I like the ballistic fab kit. Its a DIY kit, but that doesn't bother me. and its 150 bucks cheaper then the Currie.

    Here's my concern/question.
    If I go with the dom/heim kit, will it hit the passanger side spring? Is that why the factory linkage is curved? Will I have to do ANY mods to make this kind of kit work. Will the large bolt that will go thru the knuckle on the passenger side hit the wheel,if my backspacing is wrong?

    What's your experience with this type of upgrade on a daily driver?

    Thanks for any and all info

    Joe
    It was like that when I got here.

  • #2
    Get a currie drag link by itself for about $200 IIRC. Then get a good solid tierod off a V8 grand cherokee for about $20 at pic a part. Do a driver side otk flip with a insert http://goferitoffroad.com/products.htm and flip the tierod over from the way it was installed on the cherokee(This is so you dont have to move and reweld the swaybar links.Get a steering stabilzer mount also if you think you need it.My Currie draglink xj otk tierod is up high so it has plenty of clearence and hasnt hit a rock yet. Awesome steering setup and fairly cheap.
    I also went with a cheaper cross over steering setup at first and it still hit the rocks and bent. Unless you plan on doing an otk setup to get the tierod up higher which requires a bit of fab work so it will work right. I dont recomend a crossover type steering on a tj unless you spend the coin to get the track bar draglink angles correct also(for bump steer). Not to mention I dont think heims on the steering are legal for on road use.But I could be wrong.
    Last edited by Jeeperator; 02-02-11, 09:35 AM.

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    • #3
      I have the Currie kit. At full steer, the tie rod on the driver's side hits the spring bucket portion that holds the lower sway bar pin. I've just been too lazy to bust out the grinder to fix it.

      I've hit the Currie tie rod on rocks a couple times and it only has a slight bend. Stout unit and it's 100% bolt on (other than the aforementioned grinding that might be needed).
      If we aren't supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat?

      http://jeep.matandtiff.com/

      Truth is treason in the empire of lies. -Ron Paul

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Materdaddy View Post
        I have the Currie kit. At full steer, the tie rod on the driver's side hits the spring bucket portion that holds the lower sway bar pin. I've just been too lazy to bust out the grinder to fix it. I've hit the Currie tie rod on rocks a couple times and it only has a slight bend. Stout unit and it's 100% bolt on (other than the aforementioned grinding that might be needed).
        Thats why you run a solid v8 grand cherokee tierod fliped otk. The factory bends in the tierod give you more clearence up from the rocks and out away from the sway bar bracket. Not to mention you save ~$100 over the currie tierod.

        I dont think I have hit my tierod yet its to far up out of the way since its otk now.I have probably 2"-3" more clearence up on the drivers side over a currie and a stock tierod. You can also do a otk flip with currie and stock tierod but cutting and rewelding the lower swaybar tabs and possibly grinding spring bucket is needed.
        Last edited by Jeeperator; 02-02-11, 09:41 AM. Reason: spelling

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        • #5
          I have the currie kit on my tj and i am not having any problems with the steering anymore. Not hitting any tie rods or bolts.

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          • #6
            ive had the currie set up for yrs and yrs. my only issue is it hits on the passenger side. the right side drag link hits my right side antirock/swaybar mount location. it actually stops my passenger up travel. also the rear of the drag link hits on the steering damper bracketry...
            1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jeeperator View Post
              Thats why you run a solid v8 grand cherokee tierod fliped otk...You can also do a otk flip with currie and stock tierod by cutting and rewelding the lower swaybar tabs and possibly grinding spring bucket is needed.
              That picture is exactly where mine hits. If I didn't get such a deal on the currie, and wanted something bolt-on at the time, I might have looked into what you're describing. If the currie becomes a problem, I'll probably look at doing the flip, thanks.
              If we aren't supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat?

              http://jeep.matandtiff.com/

              Truth is treason in the empire of lies. -Ron Paul

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jeeperator View Post
                Get a currie drag link by itself for about $200 IIRC. Then get a good solid tierod off a V8 grand cherokee for about $20 at pic a part. Do a driver side otk flip with a insert http://goferitoffroad.com/products.htm and flip the tierod over from the way it was installed on the cherokee(This is so you dont have to move and reweld the swaybar links.Get a steering stabilzer mount also if you think you need it.My Currie draglink xj otk tierod is up high so it has plenty of clearence and hasnt hit a rock yet. Awesome steering setup and fairly cheap.
                I also went with a cheaper cross over steering setup at first and it still hit the rocks and bent. Unless you plan on doing an otk setup to get the tierod up higher which requires a bit of fab work so it will work right. I dont recomend a crossover type steering on a tj unless you spend the coin to get the track bar draglink angles correct also(for bump steer). Not to mention I dont think heims on the steering are legal for on road use.But I could be wrong.
                I really like the sound of your idea. Sounds stronger and cheaper. Can you post some pics of the set up, so I get it right the 1st time. A pic says a 1000 words. If this works out, I owe you a couple beers for saving me a couple hundred bucks.

                Thanks Joe
                It was like that when I got here.

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                • #9
                  Not sure if the xj v8 tierod solid bar is stronger than the currie dom tube but it is cheaper and way stronger than the stock tj hollow tierod. Just the v8 tierod upgrade alone is definatly worth the $20 price tag and it bolts right on. I will get get more pics as soon as I get a chance.
                  Here a pic of the diff cover clearence notice bend in the tierod adds extra clearence: There is some paint rubed away on the damper bracketry also but I am not that concerned about it. This might be because of the extra beefiness of the currie draglink.
                  Last edited by Jeeperator; 02-02-11, 02:59 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jeeperator View Post
                    Do a driver side otk flip with a insert http://goferitoffroad.com/products.htm and flip the tierod over from the way it was installed on the cherokee(This is so you dont have to move and reweld the swaybar links.
                    goferit says that the drivers side sway bar mount will need to be modified for it to work. That goes against what you stated?:confused:
                    It was like that when I got here.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Tumbleweed13 View Post
                      goferit says that the drivers side sway bar mount will need to be modified for it to work. That goes against what you stated?:confused:
                      No! read #4 again. I said the same thing if you use the stock or the straight currie bar you have to mod it. With the zj bar flipped you dont.

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                      • #12
                        I went with the currie set-up as well as far as I can tell I,m not hitting anywhere..


                        I did get hit by a tow truck..lol last tear it,s bumber hit my tire an damaged the bracket (ripped it off) the lower control arm and the currie deal didn,t even bend..
                        "A man who fears suffering,is already suffering from what he fears"!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Geebo View Post
                          I went with the currie set-up as well as far as I can tell I,m not hitting anywhere..


                          I did get hit by a tow truck..lol last tear it,s bumber hit my tire an damaged the bracket (ripped it off) the lower control arm and the currie deal didn,t even bend..
                          Your tre on the drivers side is in the stock position under the knuckle also. If you had an otk mod for more ground and rock clearence it would hit the swaybar bracket and possibly the spring holder unless you mod them.

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                          • #14
                            Beau, not sure what yer talkin about my bro??
                            "A man who fears suffering,is already suffering from what he fears"!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Jeeperator View Post
                              No! read #4 again. I said the same thing if you use the stock or the straight currie bar you have to mod it. With the zj bar flipped you dont.
                              10-4 I may be a bit slow, but I get it now. I always get the drag and tie rods mixed up.:bonk:
                              It was like that when I got here.

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