TJ: 35 inch tire advice

[Fredo]

Hey guy's and gals
I'm running 33inch tires with a 3.5 inch Rock Krawler lift and I love it.
I'm thinking in putting 35's once my 33's wear out.
Should I or shouldn't I?
Is it worth it or am I going to open up a can of warms that I will regret?
I have 3.73 gears at the moment and I would have Brothers in Montclair re gear it for the 35's and I would add a 1 inch. budget lift to the rock Krawler lift.
Anybody out there regrets putting 35's?
I just need some advice from the MJR pros.
Thanks!!!!

[OU812]

I tend to have more opinions than experience but I would say that if you do not have alloy shafts at a minimum stick with the 33s while you have your stock axles. When you move up to 35s you will break axles and ujoints more often. You can go a lot of places with 33s. I would spend your money on good axles and lockers first. My opinion...

[aw12345]

Scott is right if you have a need for 35's when wheelin, it is wise to have chromemolly axles and better gearing, lockers do not hurt either. Now just for looks gears and you are fine. 4.56 gears work nice with a 6 cyl with manual trans

[dadasjp]

Take $5,000 and divide it by the number of times you've been stuck over the last year and see if you would be willing to pay that price for each time you needed more clearance. If the price "per stuck" is too steep, keep wheeling until it's worth it to you to upgrade. Just my $.02 (pun intended). BTW, I run 35's, chromolly's, lockers, gears, so I've done the math; and it ain't a cheap answer.

[Loser1]

I just moved from 33's to 35's. My 33's did me right, followed my buddies with 35's and never had a problem.

Moved to 35's because of PEER pressure, and spent some bucks on the upgrades. (Brothers did the gears, great guys!)

The only difference I can tell is 1 more inch of ground clearance and a BUNCH of money. Oh ya...my buddies have found other things to tease me about....

No regrets....

L1

[Fredo]

Thank you all for the advice, I guess I will do the same like I did with the suspension..save save and do it the right way the first time so I wont have any regrets.
You guy's are awesome!
Thank you.

Will post pics when completed..

[JeepGal]

I went from 33's to 35's. Primarily because I had the parts and tires fall into my lap.

Unless you really need the extra clearance, I wouldn't spend the money.

Its definitely a can of worms. Everything affects everything else. New 35" tires = more suspension and lower gears= stronger axles... each "improvement" moves the weakness to another part of your Jeep. Bigger tires, stronger axles puts the weakness on the steering. Dont forget about the decrease in your ability to stop as fast as you used to...you get it.

Only do it if you need to do it.

Tam

[Tumbleweed13]

When it comes to clearance issues, Try and check it out before you get a "budget lift". If you have a friend that will let you mount their 35's on your jeep and run it up an rti ramp to see if you hit. I'm running 35's with a 4" long arm lift with no clearance issues. Maybe you wont have any problems either. If you do hit up front I suggest tube fenders or something like that, instead of a body lift. Keep that center of gravity as low as you can. If the back hits, cut out those wheel wells and get some new flares.

[Toolman]

Before you go and dump a bunch of money on new gears.. Martin from Mobile Gear is the man for the job... 488's installed front and rear for $900 with Ring and Pinion kit.. Most shops charge $1200 an axle. He and his brother came out to my house and installed them in about 4 hours in my driveway. He's done countless other friends vehicles and we have had good luck with them. You should be able to fit 35's under stock fenders no problem without a body lift, or tube fenders.. I would change the axles as well. I have seen countless Jeeps with a 4" lift with 35's

[brokenujoint]

A can of worms indeed. But you know you'll do it sooner or later anyways. Right?

Didnt read if you have a 35 in the rear or not, but if you do, 35's are out of the quetion. If you have a 44, read on.

minimum of 4:56 gears. ( ive ran these gears for 10 yrs on 35's and havent had an issue)

if your regearing you want lockers. yes lock-ERS (as in 2)

I LOVE my detroid true trac in the rear. rock solid and you just dont even think about it. its just there.
ARB up front. selectable. I dont use it until i'm stuck or about to be.

If your short armed and expect a full range of suspension articulation, you'll want long arms or mids.

expect your braking to get worse regardless of all the above mentioned.

I know Ike and Gasper. They are excellent guys.

Not sure if you have a SYE but you'll want that to.

A can of worms indeed.

[Fredo]

A can of worms indeed. But you know you'll do it sooner or later anyways. Right?

Didnt read if you have a 35 in the rear or not, but if you do, 35's are out of the quetion. If you have a 44, read on.

minimum of 4:56 gears. ( ive ran these gears for 10 yrs on 35's and havent had an issue)

if your regearing you want lockers. yes lock-ERS (as in 2)

I LOVE my detroid true trac in the rear. rock solid and you just dont even think about it. its just there.
ARB up front. selectable. I dont use it until i'm stuck or about to be.

If your short armed and expect a full range of suspension articulation, you'll want long arms or mids.

expect your braking to get worse regardless of all the above mentioned.

I know Ike and Gasper. They are excellent guys.

Not sure if you have a SYE but you'll want that to.

A can of worms indeed.

Yes you are right!
right now I want to stick with my 33's but I know once they wear out she will be setting on 35's
The plan is, while she sits on 33's i will re gear her and change the axles and add about a inch to the suspension (Puck-spring spacer)
hopefully by next summer she will be done for now.
I still need the winch,lights etc. feels like it's never going to end!
Ps..The guy's at Brothers are AWESOME,
Old school service that you just cant find now a days.

[Fredo]

[QUOTE=brokenujoint;175930]A can of worms indeed. But you know you'll do it sooner or later anyways. Right?

Didnt read if you have a 35 in the rear or not, but if you do, 35's are out of the quetion. If you have a 44, read on.

minimum of 4:56 gears. ( ive ran these gears for 10 yrs on 35's and havent had an issue)

if your regearing you want lockers. yes lock-ERS (as in 2)

I LOVE my detroid true trac in the rear. rock solid and you just dont even think about it. its just there.
ARB up front. selectable. I dont use it until i'm stuck or about to be.

If your short armed and expect a full range of suspension articulation, you'll want long arms or mids.

expect your braking to get worse regardless of all the above mentioned.

I know Ike and Gasper. They are excellent guys.

Not sure if you have a SYE but you'll want that to.

A can of worms indeed.[/QUOTE

[bails85]

dude !!!! it. put the 35s on then upgrade as u need to. gearing is good but people run undergeared all the time. wheel it to find ur weak points before dumping money into gears and cro shafts. some guys wheel harded than others. u may not have any problems.

[brokenujoint]

Some what true. Whats the price to pay really?

Would you be willing to break down in "who knows where" and have a tow truck get you out for the price of what it would have cost you to put in a locker and chromo's.?

Or for you to do residual damage to something because you didnt regear?

Just my opinion's. Being a jeeper means mods. plain and simple. I'm not saying go buy Hi 9's and dana 60 king pins. most, rather nearly all of us have no need for that and internet hear-say is way overblown.

In the real world, a 44 in the rear with a locker and gears, preferably a locker up front, gas skid, lift,rockers, good wheels and tires and a SYE and your good to go. THEN find your weak spots. They are usually just your courage at that point in the build.

[OU812]

I try to find and fix my week spots in the drive way not in the desert. TRY being the key word. But going against common knowledge and running 35s on a Dana35 with 3.05 gears is asking for
trouble.