How do I remove this part?

[nwoods]

I have a SwayLoc system from Offroad Only. I broke it somehow. The pear shaped part sheared right off. I have a new one, but I am having a heck of a time getting the crosslink bar off the splined shaft its attached too. I removed all the bolts and pulled, pushed, tweaked, wiggled and kicked at it without success. I even tried crowbars and a 5lbs sledge, but it was not budging. So how do I pull these pieces off the spline? Anyone have any ideas?

Here is the new part:


Here is the splined teeth on the new part. The parts that need to be removed are similar:


It goes behind this assembly. The long bar that parallels the frame is the part that needs to come off near the front bolt.


Here is a shot from directly below, looking up at the assembly:

[aw12345]

After taking the bolts out tap a chisel in the open end wedging it open a bit this should allow you to get it off. If need be try to twist the piece a bit it might have slipped a bit on the splines locking it

[nwoods]

That's a good idea. I did try to wedge a fairly good sized flat tip screw driver there and tapped it a few times with a hammer, but I didn't get much effect. I think a wedgier shaped chisel tip might be the ticket to spread those out a bit and relieve pressure off the splines.

[RAT]

Nathan,
If your screwdriver or chisel is too fat it won't go in far enough to open the wedge. Try a slim flat blade screwdriver and drive it in as far as you can. It needs to go in at least half the width of the part. Don't pry with the screw driver; it's only there to expand that part off the splines. Once you get the gap opened up a bit try prying with the crow bars again. WD40 is your freind here as well.
And do I see this right? It looks like the 90 degree elbo for the air is rubbing on the retaining bolt.

[nwoods]

And do I see this right? It looks like the 90 degree elbo for the air is rubbing on the retaining bolt.

Almost. There is a thick washer that has been trimmed to accommodate the air fitting, but it's a few mm's away from the actual bolt.

That whole pneumatic piston assembly is easily removed by a couple of allen bolts.

There is also bolt for the Heim joint of the actual swaybar riser that gets removed in this process to, and that was easy as well. Everything disassembled the way it ought to quite easily, but I just could not get that arm off the spindle.

[JJsKJ]

Use some anti-seize on the splines when you put it all back together, should help make it easier next time.

[xthread]

perfect opertunity for a can of kroil oil .the oil that creeps .!!!!!!

[Lawrence]

Remove the bolt that locks the arm to the swaybar, and the ones on the driver's side. Take a socket with a slightly smaller diameter than the inner swaybar, hit the socket with a hammer of your choice to displace that swaybar to the driver side. Insert your new arm, push the swaybar back to center, put the bolts back on and tighten everything.

I personally use a broomstick, very handy and makes it a quick job. BTW, Do not use anti-seize on the splines.

[nwoods]

Lawrence, if I understand this right, what you are saying is instead of removing the arm outward and off, the trick is to move the spindle inward? Sounds like a neat idea, and I get to use a hammer!

[Lawrence]

Lawrence, if I understand this right, what you are saying is instead of removing the arm outward and off, the trick is to move the spindle inward? Sounds like a neat idea, and I get to use a hammer!

Yes much easier and faster, although it is called a sway bar and not a spindle. You'll be pulling on that sucker forever before it comes off.

The arm you are trying to remove is connected to the inner bar, loosen all the bolts on the driver's side so it can slide, and whack it from the passenger side. Everything will slide to the driver's side and the arm will then come off. Then, repeat the procedure with a different sized socket for the outer swaybar and the broken piece will come off.

[nwoods]

Well, I successfully got the control arm off the splined swaybar. Pushing it inward towards the driver's side did the trick. Thanks!

Unfortunately, my repair efforts pretty much failed after that point. I reassembled everything, but the pnuematic piston either no longer fires, or the new part simply fits the receiver too tightly and won't let the slide operate. Instead of being permanently disengaged, I am now permanently engaged. :-(

[aw12345]

Leave it unlocked and park on the big rock at cleghorn that most likely will help free it up