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  • Installation shops

    Hey guys,

    I ordered a new lift and for this lift, I'm not going to be able to install it myself. I have no welding skills which this lift requires.

    Can anyone recommend a shop that does excellent work installing lifts and such?

    The only shops I know of are Offroad Evolution and 4xdoctor. Both of which I have no experience with. So, if you have experience with them, it would be nice if you can comment on their work.

    Thanks,

    Merlin

  • #2
    4XDoctor does nice work. I have also had a good recent experience with Patrick at CoolFXJeep in Monrovia. Really knows his stuff, fair prices and a nice guy to boot.

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    • #3
      Thanks!

      I found All 4 Wheel Drive in corona, they turned up to be a dealer of Clayton's Offroad, unfortunately they won't install the lift because I didn't buy it from them.

      I'll check out CoolFXJeep, they're only about 20 minutes away from me.

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      • #4
        Call me tomorrow and maybe my shop can help you.
        offroadwerkz.com
        (805) 642-8400 or 477-9977

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        • #5
          I have used www.offroadevolution.com
          06 UNL RUBI 4.5 LA,KM 2-35's/ 4.88 BEADLOCKS/SKIDS/WINCH
          07 AT CHASER TRAILER

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          • #6
            Originally posted by mrchips View Post
            May I ask what you got installed and what your verdict was? I don't know what is a reasonable price for welding and such.

            The wanted to charge about 150-200/per side to put on some sliders.

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            • #7
              Installed a Full Traction Long arm system, exhaust system and alignment for $2K. Buy some sliders and install them yourself, not that hard if you have a floor jack, and a buddy.
              06 UNL RUBI 4.5 LA,KM 2-35's/ 4.88 BEADLOCKS/SKIDS/WINCH
              07 AT CHASER TRAILER

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              • #8
                Originally posted by mrchips View Post
                Installed a Full Traction Long arm system, exhaust system and alignment for $2K. Buy some sliders and install them yourself, not that hard if you have a floor jack, and a buddy.
                thanks. i bought jks sliders, but the mounting arms come separate. you either have to bolt them to the rest of the slider or you can weld them. i wanted to weld them. i thought that was pretty steep to charge welding the arms to the slider and bolting it to the frame. but you're right, they are not that hard to install.


                thanks guys. i'll give you guys a call next week.

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                • #9
                  Check out D & S Autoworks in Santa Paula 805.525.7400
                  2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7 V-8 3.5OME 5100 JK Rubi Rims

                  "Never argue with a fool they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience."

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                  • #10
                    Patrick Cooley in Monrovia does great work. Unfortunately, he has recently closed his shop. He is still doing some side work, time permitting, so I could put you in touch with him. From much personal experience, I tend to suggest Jason Bunch at Tri-County Gear in Pomona. He can build anything, but for more complex Jeep stuff there is probably no one better (I seen some incredible Jeeps that others have built, but I do not know those folks). Jason will build it right the first time. I would think it would be worth your time to give him a call and talk to him yourself. TCG is 909-623-3373. Jason, Patrick and I have done all the work on my jeep, and with the exception of the things I have done, everything else is first rate.
                    Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ECV Jeep View Post
                      Patrick Cooley in Monrovia does great work. Unfortunately, he has recently closed his shop. He is still doing some side work, time permitting, so I could put you in touch with him. From much personal experience, I tend to suggest Jason Bunch at Tri-County Gear in Pomona. He can build anything, but for more complex Jeep stuff there is probably no one better (I seen some incredible Jeeps that others have built, but I do not know those folks). Jason will build it right the first time. I would think it would be worth your time to give him a call and talk to him yourself. TCG is 909-623-3373. Jason, Patrick and I have done all the work on my jeep, and with the exception of the things I have done, everything else is first rate.
                      Hi ECV,

                      You know, I actually got my Clayton's lift installed by Patrick. My jeep was the last to roll out of his shop. He had to do the install my lift without a lift in his shop.

                      There are some things I need to get straightened out with the lift though and I haven't had time to contact Patrick about them. If things fall through with Patrick, I'll give TCG a call.

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                      • #12
                        so what have you done to your 00' so far? I have a bone stock 00' and I am going to do some crazy stuff, but I am still in the planning stages. I was planing on a 6" Claytons long arm, I wonder how your lift turned out. how about the sliders and stuff? what kind of rear axle do you have? any problems with the front driveshaft?
                        :gun: my rifle is not illegal, it's just undocumented... :gun:

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Kodiak Spirit View Post
                          so what have you done to your 00' so far? I have a bone stock 00' and I am going to do some crazy stuff, but I am still in the planning stages. I was planing on a 6" Claytons long arm, I wonder how your lift turned out. how about the sliders and stuff? what kind of rear axle do you have? any problems with the front driveshaft?

                          Hey Kodiak,

                          I've running 4" with my Clayton's right now. The offroad ability is really great. I would have skipped all that stuff and went to 6" Clayton's if I had known better. Springs I'm running Iron Rock Offroad. Shocks I'm running Bilstein 5100s. Everything I have for this 4" lift came from Iron Rock Offroad, I just got Clayton's installed underneath it.

                          Sliders, I've got JCR Offroad sliders. They have the most lateral protection, are one piece, and bolt to the pinch weld for more support. I would skip JKS as their sliders have an extra step in that you must weld or bolt the slider to the mounting arms (2 pieces). If you want you can go with Kevin's sliders or if you have welding skills you can make your own set. At the moment the JCR sliders are the hot choice/fad.

                          With Clayton's the Tcase skid is no longer functional. You must either modify the stock tcase skid to fit or build your own. I haven't seen one offered yet. The stock gas tank skid is fine and the front skid I don't run as I've never had a rock underneath high enough to hit it, not to mention you'd hit the tie rod, which you wouldn't intentionally try to do in the first place.

                          Axles, I'm running the stock stuff. I have the quadra drive system, so I have a d44a in the back and a d30 in the front. No locker available for the d44a except a limited run lunch box locker from Aussie, which I believe is happening now over on www.mallcrawlin.com

                          Diff, protection, you can pick any company for you d30 and d35 needs. At the moment only Blue Torch Fab is making a d44a cover, which is in pre-order stage as the plans just got drawn up a couple weeks ago.

                          Tie rod and drag link, I'm running the HD stuff from JKS. Some people have done a tie rod flip mod for more clearance.

                          Wheels, I'm running 15x7 soft 8s with 4" bs and 31x10.5 maxxis bighorns. 15" steelies will fit with no more than 4" bs.

                          For the front drive shaft. You need a u-jointed shaft on both ends or else it'll blow up with the extreme angle. I've got a Reel drivelines front drive shaft. Stock rear is fine so far.

                          With Clayton's you will have to modify your exhaust. It needs to be either rotated to fit inbetween the drive shaft and rear upper control arm mounting bracket. Or else you should replace it with a smaller muffler, which is what I'm doing.

                          I think that's about it. I hope that helps.

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                          • #14
                            I forgot to add a IRO's link, www.ironrockoffroad.com

                            Their upper spring retainer I feel is a must. I popped a spring and lost it, which is why I'm now at 4".

                            I'll have a picture up from Miller Jeep Trail going through the squeeze, so you can see at least the front of the suspension work.

                            Edit: If you're going to do some crazy stuff. Perhaps IRO's jk rubicon d44 axle swaps are in your future. Then, you have the additional strength and locker support the d44a does not, unless you have the d30/d35 combo of axles.
                            Last edited by phant0omx; 10-01-08, 04:13 PM.

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                            • #15
                              Thanx for the awesome info writeup! I am going to check out all of that stuff. I never thought I would want a D35 rear axle, but it seems in this case the 44 is not the one to have. I don't really know how much money I will have to spend yet, but when I get my budget together I will consider the JK axle swaps, I noticed those when they first came available, and the price is not bad at all. (IMO)
                              :gun: my rifle is not illegal, it's just undocumented... :gun:

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