Tera High-Steer v/s Currie HD

[Outlaw]

I still am getting the Currie unless someone can convince me this Tera set up is better. I know the tera comes with new tierod ends, but are they the same size as the OE? I would hope not but never seen it first hand as I see the Currie's all the time.

[Joel77]

The most cost efective method is the Currie HD Steering. By far.

If you want hi-steer then do the WJ knuckle hi steer with the brakes.

Joel

[tjTerry]

I have been wondering about the same two steering setups. The higher tie rod would be a great improvement, but I may wait to let someone else try it for awhile. I is alot of $$ for a new unkown product. Looks like a great idea though.
T

[nagal]

Never heard anything good about this setup. There was a lot of talk about it over on Jeeps Unlimited. I think calling this a hi-steer is a bit of a farce. Fliping the tie-rod over the knuckle and doing a cross-over steering is not, IMO, hi-steer.

[4x4garage]

There is a guy I used to work with that has the Tera Flex Setup. The Tie Rods are BIGGER. They are a Moog tie rod. Moog makes great front end parts. I saw somewhere in a catalog or magazine they actually gave you the Moog number and had a passing thought of trying to fab my own... Too many other things to do first.

They guy who had it own was running a custom Long Arm that hooked up the the RE LA system so he could fit 37s with TR beadlocks. (there was so much money in his truck it made me sick) It was a rubicon... I remember him telling me that the setup gave great on road driving. He commuted 20 miles a day, one way, with his rig. He also takes this Rubi on the Rubicon, Moab and even the Hammers!...

I hope this helps a little anyway.

[rick]

Can you run 15" wheels with the WJ brakes?

[nagal]

rick,

I am. Have the cragar 397 rims 15x8 3.75 bs (I think) and did not have to do any grinding on the calipers. Its a tight fit but I have not heard any grinding yet. Of course hard to heard anything over the squel of the tires as I lock up the brakes

[CJBrian]

What about the Poison Spyder Customs setup for the TJ. I run the heim joint version on my CJ its high quality and was bigger and cheaper than Currie.

[goodtimes]

... Moog makes great front end parts...

......either that or they buy someone elses front end parts, re-box them, and sell them as their own.

[Dukes69]

......either that or they buy someone elses front end parts, re-box them, and sell them as their own.

hmmm. got something to say?

[goodtimes]

Three things actually....

Thompson, Ramo and Wooldridge.

[Dukes69]

gotcha.

[Matt Pascoe]

I bought the Tera setup for my SOA YJ (they advertise it as designed for this app), very disapointing.

The TRE's are HUGE, I have seen alot of MOOG TRE's and have never seen some like this. The boot is sealed to the body with a ring clamp, appeared to be a very high quality TRE. But did I mention they are HUGE? This was the first problem I ran into, with the tie rod under the knuckle the size of the TRE's places your tie rod much lower than stock, not what I wanted.

In this pic the end on the tie rod is from Tera, the drag link one is an offset end that I was experimenting with.


If you place the draglink on top of the knuckle it will contact the frame when flexed. Below the frame wont work because the leaf springs are in the way.

Also, the high steer arm on the knuckle stuck much further forward than you would expect, so much so that using a stock pitman isnt possible as it would prevent full range of steering (stop to stop).

Teras response was basically "its a custom steering for custom Jeeps, deal with it"

I wound up making my own custom tie rod and draglink out of DOM and Moog TRE's. I did use the Tera knuckle, but had to re-drill/taper most of the holes and drill a new hole for the draglink closer to the axle, really wish I would have gone the WJ route :mad:



I know many of theses problem are stictly YJ related, but judging by Teras aparent lack of product testing, R&D, I wouldnt waste my money (again) on this kit.

Matt

[mrblaine]

You may get the Tera Kit if you wish. Be aware that they use 6061 T6 for the links and that material is not suited for threaded applications under high stress. You can and will yank the ends right out of the link if you say, for instance, hit a railroad crossing at speed and it's a rough one, smack a curb accidentally, hit a rock in the desert, or any situation whereby you substantially stress the threads in a pulling manner. This can be greatly exacerbated by overtightening the jam nuts or under tightening and letting the end pull on the the threads back and forth.

Make your own links using 7075 T6 if you want to go aluminum or conventional threaded tube or tube adapters and tube.

Or, just buy the Currie, bolt it up, go wheeling and smile while your doing it.

[blkTJ]

I smile often. :yay: