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  • WJ Knuckle

    Doing a lot of research on how to get a hi-steer on a tj (not just flipping the tie-rod over the knuckle). One thing that comes up is using WJ Knuckles (from a left-side and right-side driver). I know you need hub spacers.

    My question is do you have to use the WJ brake hardware or with the tJ stuff bolt on?

    Thanks
    Michael

    [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

  • #2
    WJ stuff. Hell my whole reason for doing WJ knuckles was just for the better brakes!!!!
    I got your jeep thing, now it burns when I pee

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    • #3
      Why would you go to all the trouble and not run the WJ brakes. They are 100% better then the TJ brakes.

      I don't think the brackets are the same - which is why you can't bolt up WJ brakes to stock TJ knuckles (or a bunch of us would have already done that).

      IMO if you just want high steer you should look at the ORO U-Turn - it's probably less work then the WJ setup. If you want excellent brakes, the WJ setup works great.

      You do realize that to have your Jeep drive properly (no bumpsteer, etc.) you are going to have to move the track bar when you move the tie rod.

      Jeff

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      • #4
        Thanks for the info. Had heard conflicting info on if the tj calipers would bolt up to the WJ Knuckle or not.
        Michael

        [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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        • #5
          The WJ brakes are twin piston calipers compared to the TJ's single piston design. WJ calipers are much larger than the tj calipers and you will need to either run 16-17" rims, or grind the calipers down to clear 15" rims. Once you aquire the properr knuckles {I run a standerd passenger wj knuckle and a right hand drive european left side knuckle. This moves the steering up an additional 2-3" or so. You will also need to weld a .25 spacer on the cast knuckle { which means heating up the cast knuckle 500 degrees or so for a 1/2 an hour prior to mig welding}. This spacer will properly align the u-joint on the axle shaft. This is a great upgrade for anyone running 33's + to get a handle on the braking with bigger tires issue.
          ASM REAPER BUGGY ON 40'S SOLD
          00 TJ ON 37'S SOLD
          97zj ON 36'S SOLD

          04 CUMMINS CRAWLER HAULER

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          • #6
            Chris,

            Did not know you were using that setup. How do you like it?

            That is what I am planning on doing minus the brake hardware if possible. I would love to do the brakes but new tires and rims just are not in the future.
            Michael

            [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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            • #7
              Did not know you were using that setup. How do you like it?

              That is what I am planning on doing minus the brake hardware if possible. I would love to do the brakes but new tires and rims just are not in the future.

              I love the setup and figure it's about 40-50% better than a standard tj setup running 35's. If you are considerig this setup you will need to do what I described above and change your brakes, calipers and rotors to the wj stuff. I run the warn 5 on 5.5 hub setup and have to use 11" CJ rotors with my brakes. If you want to keep your current tire/rim setup then you can take a grinder to the calipers and grind off some of the casting area on the caliper to clear the 15" rims. There are some aluminum 15' rims that will clear the wj calipers.
              ASM REAPER BUGGY ON 40'S SOLD
              00 TJ ON 37'S SOLD
              97zj ON 36'S SOLD

              04 CUMMINS CRAWLER HAULER

              Comment


              • #8
                Chris,

                Just for clarification, you said "change your brakes, calipers and rotors to the wj stuff" but go on to describe you are using CJ rotors because of the bolt pattern. Can I assume (god I hate that word) that the TJ rotors will still work or there is just too much difference between the WJ and TJ rotors?

                Yeah, trying to conserve every penny I can. Not being cheap just this mod has sky-rocketed price wise and try to keep it under control.

                Thanks
                Michael

                [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

                Comment


                • #9
                  You can't use the TJ rotor. On mine I use a Ford Explorer Sport Trac rotors and had the inner hole machined for my hub conversion.
                  I do run 15" rims on mine, sourced the pre-2003 caliper for the better clearance on them. With my set up I run a 15x18.5 rim with 4" of BS on it.
                  I got your jeep thing, now it burns when I pee

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by RatherBeJeeping
                    You can't use the TJ rotor. On mine I use a Ford Explorer Sport Trac rotors and had the inner hole machined for my hub conversion.
                    I do run 15" rims on mine, sourced the pre-2003 caliper for the better clearance on them. With my set up I run a 15x18.5 rim with 4" of BS on it.
                    5x4.5 bolt on the Explorer Rotors? (99% sure they are but have to ask)

                    Edit:

                    Never mind found it. google is a wonderful thing but my laziness sometimes over powers my brain. The sport trac rotors are 5x4.5. Which is good because it one less thing to worry about. I see a mod write up in the future once I get this all done...
                    Last edited by nagal; 02-24-05, 09:46 AM. Reason: Found the Info
                    Michael

                    [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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                    • #11
                      There has been a few good write ups on this mod. One in particular is from Mike Rollins {MJR} on this board. Look over at 4x4 wire.com for his write up. I used the cj roters only due to having the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern, and it was a direct bolt on with no machining of the roters.
                      ASM REAPER BUGGY ON 40'S SOLD
                      00 TJ ON 37'S SOLD
                      97zj ON 36'S SOLD

                      04 CUMMINS CRAWLER HAULER

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Chris_L
                        There has been a few good write ups on this mod. One in particular is from Mike Rollins {MJR} on this board. Look over at 4x4 wire.com for his write up. I used the cj roters only due to having the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern, and it was a direct bolt on with no machining of the roters.
                        So, when you set that up with the 5.5 hub conversion, what did you do with that 1/8" spacer that comes in the kit?
                        I am Savvy.

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                        • #13
                          [QUOTE=Chris_L]I used the cj roters QUOTE]

                          I should have said "I have the cj roters"
                          ASM REAPER BUGGY ON 40'S SOLD
                          00 TJ ON 37'S SOLD
                          97zj ON 36'S SOLD

                          04 CUMMINS CRAWLER HAULER

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            ok i got a question. what if i get the hp30 for my tj and i know that i can swap everything over minus knuckles(for tj rotors) and the gears. what if i have the warn hub kit set up and i have the cj style rotors? can i still use the xj knuckles with cj style rotors?

                            im talking warn 5x4.5 hub kit, warn axles, Dana 30 ARB, cj style rotors. is this ok?
                            1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!

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                            • #15
                              Just swap everything over. knuckles, brakes, hubs, etc
                              [COLOR=blue]Chris[/COLOR]
                              SAVE JOHNSON VALLEY!!! - CLICK HERE
                              Ya Savvy?

                              Motech Performance

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