Jeep yj questions. Need help

[bails85]

My wife and I are going to be picking up a yj here in the next week. I went to look it over and check if everything works. How does the ac system controls work? It has a switch set like most other cars with the hot and cold settings and the vent modes in the center under the radio but it also has two round knobs under the steering wheel. When I use the center switches nothing happens but if I turn the round knobs under the steering wheel it comes on. Is this how jeep made this or did the previous owner rig up his own switches. I'm sure I will have to charge the ac system and it needs a new heater core. But other than that it will be a really nice jeep. It's a 92 yj with 4.0 and ax15 and 231 t case. Just trying to get a little familiar with the wrangler stuff. I have only owned and xj so there are some little differences.

[aw12345]

It's most likely an aftermarket ac unitOne knob is fan speed control, the other should be the thermostat/ how cold it gets

[6spdYJ]

Great year to get Bails! Your #1 weak point will be the internal slave cylinder. Any 6 cyl bellhousing and slave cylinder setup after 1995 is the best investment you can make. According to Haynes manual, the left knob is Fan Control Knob and the right is Temperature Control Knob. The 1987-2000 Haynes Repair manual is pretty good for these rigs. Changing the heater core is almost as much fun as a colonoscopy - but not quite. I don't know everything about these, but I've broken and fixed most anything that can break on mine.

[bails85]

My controls are like this. Not sure why I have 2 sets of them. So does this mean I won't use the ones on the right? This jeep will just be a daily driver with a mild lift. I'm going to clean it up really nice and let the wife drive it. I was really surprised to see how in tact it was. It's going to need a new top seats and some scrubbing but I think I can have it looking really nice. It's been sitiing for 3 years but it fired right up and drove fine. Is there a top that is recommended. The stock one is shot but I don't want to buy the cheapest one I can find. I'd like a decent one. Any tips or pointers would be great. 6spd I need more info on this slave cylinder if you don't mind. U have me curious.

[aw12345]

Yup aftermarket ac, you control the ac temp and fan speed on the left. Cold air will only blow out of the bottom black box

[6spdYJ]

That actually looks like a stock A/C. The YJ A/C was a total after thought. Of any I've ever seen they all looked like something from JC Whitney. It was not a refined system at all. Cool white-out on the guages.
The internal slave cylinder is good as long as it's good. When it goes out it will be characterized by a pedal that sits low to the floor and the clutch engages as soon as it's off the floor. Be aware that a bad master can do the same, but it will show itself with a sticking feeling when you step on the clutch pedal. The sticking is from the spring inside the master cylinder breaking and binding the piston. Anyhow... The first time you have to change the internal slave cylinder you will want it to be the last. When the seal gives out - not if, it's a definite when; the only fix is to remove the whole bellhousing, transmission and transfer case. When you first put it in, DO NOT cut the straps that hold the cylinder collapsed. They will break off when the pressure is applied from the master. If the slave cylinder fully extends it will damage the seals internally and you are back to square one. When installing a new internal cylinder, you have to bleed it from the start. The bleeder screw should be open before applying any pressure to the slave. If you just pour fluid in and try to pressurize the slave, you will always be fighting air in the system. Trust me, I had to do this three times. Anyhow, going to the external is FAR better in the long run. The master is the same. You will need the tube from the master to the external slave from a 1994 or later 6 cyl or 4 cyl doesn't matter. Same for the slave. You will have to get the sleeve for the later style AX-15. The external sleeve is actually a replacement for the input shaft bearing cover. It is cast iron instead of aluminum and has a sleeve that extends out most of the length of the input shaft. It keeps the bearing off of the input shaft. The aluminum one you have has no sleeve and cannot be converted - and if it could would not be strong enough. That will be the hardest part to find. I got mine from Anahiem Gear. The other things will be the external slave, throwout bearing and the arm for it. Make sure you use a quality throwout bearing. I've had good result with the National bearing from O'Reilly. When you go to pull the tube out of the master, don't beat on it with a punch (I've seen "experts" do this). Get a small nail, a drywall nail works great, and grind down the shank about 3/4" from the head of the nail to where it will fit inside the roll-pin that retains the tube in the master cylinder. As long as the tip you ground down fits inside the roll-pin and holds it in place you are good. Now take some channel-locks and just squeeze the roll pin out. When you put the new tube in place, just use the channel locks without the nail and squeeze it into place.
The advantages are a four hour plus replacement vs. 30 minutes if the slave goes out. I have had three internal slaves from Napa go bad - all between 20K-30K miles. The last one I bought was $140. Once I went external, I installed a used slave from a 1994 4 cyl and it's never failed.
IMHO, if it's working be thankful and start collecting the parts to convert it. When it goes, convert and don't look back.

[6spdYJ]

Oh yeah, Bestop. There are two versions. Look at the rear top corner of the door frame. The original design has a pointed corner. The other style has a rounded corner that will fit into a hardtop. The door window frame dictates which style to get. The factory tension bars will tend to break. I got a set of replacements from JC whitney. I didn't really see an advantage to the adjustables so I just got the pinned style. The tinted windows are a nice addition if you opt for them. I have had my current bestop for about seven years. They average three to four but I have had great results with them. A word of warning, if it's near or below freezing, warm up the windows by running the heater before opening them. I had a rear window snap in half. At least I got a new top because of it. The only downsides are road noise, but some sewing ability can fix that, and the window zippers break after a few years. I have gone to sewing in metal upholstry zippers from JoAnn. They don't break.

[bails85]

Thank you for all the info. Where's a good place to get used parts. It doesn't seem like they are plentiful in the junkyard

[6spdYJ]

Thank you for all the info. Where's a good place to get used parts. It doesn't seem like they are plentiful in the junkyard

Craig's list works best for me. Also mjr buy/sell. It all depends on what you need and how stock you want to keep it. Post up what you're looking for, that's how I've found some of my more elusive parts. If you have any xj stuff laying around you may have a lot of what you need already.

[vwtipeii]

What parts are you looking for for your YJ? I have a lil YJ too... I have lots of goodies still around that I have taken off/replaced as I have upgraded along the way. YJ's are the best

[bails85]

I'm looking for a top, some seats... The bracket that the seat bolts to is busted, maybe a small lift kit, other than that I'm just going to clean it up and leave it be. It's been sitting for 2-3 years so it needs to be freshened up. It runs like a champ and just passed smog. As far as the body goes it is really clean and the paint is still nice. I just want to put 32s on it. I have a brand new set on my xj that will go on it. I would really like some hard doors and ditch the half doors. But I'm not all that worried about it. I'll pick it up this coming Saturday and start going through it.

[6spdYJ]

Is it the bracket between the floor and the adjuster or the adjuster that's broke? I have seen the actual seat frame break as well. Depending on what you are looking for in seats, I believe Corbeau has a YJ bolt-in suspension seat. I went with EMPI race trims because they are narrower. I like them, but with having to work out the mounting, they were a lot of effort.

[vwtipeii]

I think my old stock seats are gone. I put in a set of Corbeau Baja XRS suspension seats (folding back). They mounted to the existing seat bracket no problem. As far as a seat frame or mounting bracket, a junk yard or JCWittney or Quadratek should carry them.

I do have a set of 17" DC2 wheels that fit the 5x4.5 bolt pattern I will sell to you for practically nothing. They have a little bit of rock rash but that just makes your YJ look better!

[bails85]

Its is the actual bolt hole that is on the slider that is broken. I might be able to weld it down temporarily. But I won't know for sure till I get it home. Do u have some pics of the wheels? I'm interested.

[vwtipeii]

Here are some shots when they were on my Jeep... they looked great!