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[COLOR="sienna"]So, this thread was started as a discussion of how to run 37" tires. The original discussion started as D30 vs. D44 and grew into a discussion about how to build an axle capable of running 37's keeping the cost low, but having the needed strength.
We all know that there are full axle packages available. Currie rock jock series, Dynatrac pro-rock series, high 9's were mentioned. The terms "if you know where to look" and "if you shop around" were thrown around a lot.
We all know that people shop craigslist tirelessly, frequent pick-a-part so often they hand us coffee and a donut when we walk in, and many people "know a guy" at many of the online Jeep parts suppliers. If it's a price that you have paid (somewhat recently) or if your special hook-up guy would agree to give MJR peeps the same price then ok. But if we have to go through you to get the part at that price...well that's not quite ideal is it? And craigslist really isn't dependable to have what you need at the price you paid for it last time is it? So the, "I got *insert part* off criagslist for half that price." isn't a valid point.
I think first, some parameters need to be agreed upon. Example: What does "capable of handling 37's" mean? I could strap 37's onto my Jeep right now, and maybe after 3 tanks of gas get it to the supermarket. But no way in hell can I get it to crawl over anything without my D30 failing. On the other hand, do we want to make it capable of tackling outer limits? My guess is that most of us do something in between those two extremes. For the sake of this build, lets go with "vanilla" as much as possible.
So, in the effort of keeping this a build for the common Jeeper, we are going to assume a few things.
1. We'll have to use parts available to everyone, at the price anyone can get it for. (Pro-shops get discounts that we average humans can't.)
2. Part source and price need at least a phone number, web site, or something people can actually use, this "build" is a resource too.
3. Labor not included. Lets assume this is a "do the work yourself" build. If someone want's to pay a shop to do the work, then thats something they need to source.
4. It is anticipated that "part quality" is going to be debatable, but I'm sure we can keep it civil...right? Everything on most of our Jeeps is a compromise of price. The ability to get the best stuff on the market often comes down to what you're willing to pay for it.
5. I propose building a D44, D60 a hardened D30, and a high 9 too. Let's assume a driver that's moderate on the skinny pedal.
6. Peripheral parts need to be included. If you want to stop 37's using a D30, are you going to do a brake upgrade? Stuff like that.
7. Often, you can make a solution by putting in a little extra elbow grease. Put up those ideas, and as a group we can decide if that's the route to go or not.
8. There are a zillion ways to build an axle; we are looking for a vanilla way to handle 37's. Getting an LED spotlight put into the diff cover (skeeter) isn't really something everyone is looking for. (I tease skeeter because I'm jealous of his ability to bring daylight during an eclipse)[/COLOR]
So, to start with....Toughening up a Dana 30 was an option presented. Some here on MJR have done this and have no complaints of the set-up. But how did they do it? Where did they source the parts? And how much did it actually cost them? I put a few items down below for a D30 build, if something needs to be added, we'll do that. Like a truss for example...do we NEED one? (Also, I didn't put them in any particular order, I can re-arrange if it makes more sense.)
We need to start with a D30 housing. About how much do they run at your local pick-a-part? Or if someone here has one their selling...how much do they run? (personally I use a passenger drop, but driver diff is more common so we'll go with that.)
DANA 30:
HOUSING:
GEARS: 4.56 ??? (I would have thought 4.88's at least?)
AXLES: RCV's (are these necessary?)
BRAKES: I assume we're sticking with the stock brakes? Is that adequate?
LOCKER: Detroit locker (part #?)
We all know that there are full axle packages available. Currie rock jock series, Dynatrac pro-rock series, high 9's were mentioned. The terms "if you know where to look" and "if you shop around" were thrown around a lot.
We all know that people shop craigslist tirelessly, frequent pick-a-part so often they hand us coffee and a donut when we walk in, and many people "know a guy" at many of the online Jeep parts suppliers. If it's a price that you have paid (somewhat recently) or if your special hook-up guy would agree to give MJR peeps the same price then ok. But if we have to go through you to get the part at that price...well that's not quite ideal is it? And craigslist really isn't dependable to have what you need at the price you paid for it last time is it? So the, "I got *insert part* off criagslist for half that price." isn't a valid point.
I think first, some parameters need to be agreed upon. Example: What does "capable of handling 37's" mean? I could strap 37's onto my Jeep right now, and maybe after 3 tanks of gas get it to the supermarket. But no way in hell can I get it to crawl over anything without my D30 failing. On the other hand, do we want to make it capable of tackling outer limits? My guess is that most of us do something in between those two extremes. For the sake of this build, lets go with "vanilla" as much as possible.
So, in the effort of keeping this a build for the common Jeeper, we are going to assume a few things.
1. We'll have to use parts available to everyone, at the price anyone can get it for. (Pro-shops get discounts that we average humans can't.)
2. Part source and price need at least a phone number, web site, or something people can actually use, this "build" is a resource too.
3. Labor not included. Lets assume this is a "do the work yourself" build. If someone want's to pay a shop to do the work, then thats something they need to source.
4. It is anticipated that "part quality" is going to be debatable, but I'm sure we can keep it civil...right? Everything on most of our Jeeps is a compromise of price. The ability to get the best stuff on the market often comes down to what you're willing to pay for it.
5. I propose building a D44, D60 a hardened D30, and a high 9 too. Let's assume a driver that's moderate on the skinny pedal.
6. Peripheral parts need to be included. If you want to stop 37's using a D30, are you going to do a brake upgrade? Stuff like that.
7. Often, you can make a solution by putting in a little extra elbow grease. Put up those ideas, and as a group we can decide if that's the route to go or not.
8. There are a zillion ways to build an axle; we are looking for a vanilla way to handle 37's. Getting an LED spotlight put into the diff cover (skeeter) isn't really something everyone is looking for. (I tease skeeter because I'm jealous of his ability to bring daylight during an eclipse)[/COLOR]
So, to start with....Toughening up a Dana 30 was an option presented. Some here on MJR have done this and have no complaints of the set-up. But how did they do it? Where did they source the parts? And how much did it actually cost them? I put a few items down below for a D30 build, if something needs to be added, we'll do that. Like a truss for example...do we NEED one? (Also, I didn't put them in any particular order, I can re-arrange if it makes more sense.)
We need to start with a D30 housing. About how much do they run at your local pick-a-part? Or if someone here has one their selling...how much do they run? (personally I use a passenger drop, but driver diff is more common so we'll go with that.)
DANA 30:
HOUSING:
- Source: Pick-A-Part
- Cost: $50 on half price day?
- Contact Information: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=pick+...ie=UTF-8&hl=en
GEARS: 4.56 ??? (I would have thought 4.88's at least?)
- Source: Yukon Axle & Gear
- Cost: ~$200 with master install kit & sent out to get chryoed (Not sure where you got this price, I found them cheapest at PolyPerformance website for $298.81 + $75 to be chryoed, shipping not included)
- Contact Information: Where on Pirate? is this a special deal or do you mean people selling them used on Pirate? (PolyPro- http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...ets-p-400.html)
AXLES: RCV's (are these necessary?)
- Source: I'm sorry, but if they're not a regular product on craigslist I'd rather not use them as a source. If you got them for this price...good on ya.
- Cost: What do these normally cost?
- Contact Information: uh....they don't answer the phone...
BRAKES: I assume we're sticking with the stock brakes? Is that adequate?
- Source: Auto Zone
- Cost: ~about $30 with lifetime warranty
- Contact Information: Yellow pages
LOCKER: Detroit locker (part #?)
- Source: Need a consistent source to list.
- Cost:
- Contact Information:
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