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  • #16
    X2 to the H2O and add a little dishsoap so it clings to what ever you spray it on.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....

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    • #17
      I swapped out the tps while installing the new jeeperskreepers 62mm throttle body. It was the tps. The jeep runs like a top now. I am keeping up with traffic @ 70+ mph on the highway and don't requiring downshifting as much on hills on the 10. The only issue I have now is that my idle stays around 1100 rpm or so no matter what. So now the power band is strong from 1000-4500 rpm, I like it so much I don't think I need a stroker or engine swap any longer!!! I will figure how to lower the idle rpm.

      I am getting some serious vibrations in the steering around 40-70 mph. The guys @ brothers 4x4 say it is my gy Mtrs w Kevlar. I didn't have the problem this bad before I broke the weld on the bracket that holds the axle to the bar that connects to the frame. It almost feels like death wobble is about to happen but it never does. I don't want it to either! Anyone else ever experience what I am talking about? It makes the entire jeep oscillate like a washer with an unbalanced load of laundry.

      Thanks!
      B

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      • #18
        Maybe a hydro assist steering set up will eliminate the slight wobble that bigger tires will give you, even when your front end is tight.
        It was like that when I got here.

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        • #19
          Sure you didn't "throw" a wheel weight?
          Get the tires rebalanced first......
          LG
          Hav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....

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          • #20
            As the easiest fix or atleast an easy way to figure out whats going on swap the front and rear tires

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            • #21
              Those are the same tires you had on it before they worked on it? Rebalance the tires and then take it back if the balance doesn't fix it.
              IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!

              Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!

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              • #22
                I think it's your MTRk's. Why don't you just give them to me and I'll gladly inherit your vibrations. .
                On a serious note, did you get a wheel alignment after your new tire install? Just because you got new tires and got them balanced, 1.) it doesn't mean the 17 yr old at the tire shop balanced them correctly, 2.) I hear that the MTRk's are actually pretty smooth on the road, BUT maybe it's just their nature. I'd get them re-balanced.
                1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!

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                • #23
                  I will take them to Freeway Dan's shop today and have him rebalance the big shoes and see how it goes! If you have ever wanted some noticable power gains out of your 4.0. I strongly recommend doing the 62mm TB upgrade. Power difference you can instantly feel: http://www.jeepersandcreepers.com/13601.html @ $175.00 it is a great addition for the price iMHO.

                  Brett

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                  • #24
                    Brett, did you set the position when you installed it? AZ has a pretty fair instruction on their site.

                    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...&subtitle=test

                    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...btitle=service

                    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...btitle=inspect

                    IIRC you want it to send 5.0VDC at WOT. If you ever need to test a variable resistor, for our needs a cheap analog (needle-type) multi-meter is invaluable along with a set of leads that can clip onto connector pins. Regardless of the application, set the meter to read full range of the resistor. Put the leads on two of the pins (if there's three). If the meter goes to full range and does not change with movement of the input mechanism, move one lead to the other pin. Typically the center pin is the reference to the outer pins. With the meter set as low as possible to read full range, SLOWLY sweep the input mechanism full range while watching the meter needle. It should follow the input smoothly. If at any point before full zero - the needle dips down toward zero and comes back up, the sensor is shot. Replace it. The problem with a digital meter is that the signal is buffered by the electronics and cannot display as fast as you need to see it. An analog meter shouldn't run much more than $10 for a Craftsman. You can also use analogs to check diodes in the alternator if you don't have that setting on a digital meter.

                    Hope it helps.
                    God forgives, rocks don't
                    -sons of thunder

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                    • #25
                      Nice, you are one of the few who gets how much better an analog meter is for this type of work. I wish I had a dollar for every word I've written on why digital meters are not a good choice for most automotive work.
                      The Geezer Jeep: http://www.greentractortalk.com/jerryb/index.htm

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
                        Nice, you are one of the few who gets how much better an analog meter is for this type of work. I wish I had a dollar for every word I've written on why digital meters are not a good choice for most automotive work.
                        You are wrong about this Analog meter is fine for testing a tps but for anything computer controlled on a car keep that thing away from it. The reason DVOM became a necessity is that they have a much higher impedance than an analog meter so for all the computer controlled stuff you get A inaccurate readings and B could very well damage electrical components.

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                        • #27
                          Also, before you handle any of those electrical goodies. Make sure you touch the eng. block, or some such, to drain any static you may have on your person.
                          Static is bad "JU-JU" around sensors etc.
                          Cheers,
                          LG
                          Hav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by aw12345 View Post
                            You are wrong about this Analog meter is fine for testing a tps but for anything computer controlled on a car keep that thing away from it. The reason DVOM became a necessity is that they have a much higher impedance than an analog meter so for all the computer controlled stuff you get A inaccurate readings and B could very well damage electrical components.
                            Wow, that was a very harsh reply. This is not a subject I'm without some expertise in myself.

                            First, there are in fact high impedance analog meters in case you aren't aware of it. In fact, whether a display or meter is analog or digital does not necessarily mean it has a high or low impedance. In fact, all of the displays in a glass cockpit (aircraft), for example, are analog representations driven by high impedance digital circuits. Just because a meter has an analog display does not mean its impedance is low or even low enough to cause problems when measuring a digital circuit. DVOMs have their place but they are not required to work on anything in a Jeep. And when I stock up tools and parts for offroad trips, I take only my analog VOM which works far better for troubleshooting typical Jeep electrical problems than my DVOM would.

                            In fact, the very first analog VOM I constructed as a project for a college level engineering class many years ago had a very high 11 Megohm input impedance which was more than suitable for any computer or high impedance circuit measurement done even today. Note that it was an analog meter.

                            But in fact, using a low impedence analog meter will not harm the discrete component sensors mentioned by 6spdYJ in the least. They are nothing but variable resistors which could care less about the meter's impedance. Not to mention there are no sensors in a Wrangler that could/would be harmed by using a low impedance VOM to test them. Not even the official Mopar Factory Service Manuals I have specify the use of DVOMs for testing any of the sensors.

                            I have 45+ years of electrical/electronics experience in everything from high power RF to low power digital circuitry and have worked on/troubleshot pretty much any type of analog/digital circuits anyone can think of.
                            Last edited by Jerry Bransford; 03-08-12, 07:54 PM.
                            The Geezer Jeep: http://www.greentractortalk.com/jerryb/index.htm

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
                              Wow, that was a very harsh reply on whether an analog meter can be used for testing sensors aw12345. This is not a subject I'm without some expertise in myself.

                              First, there are in fact high impedance analog meters in case you aren't aware of it. In fact, whether a display or meter is analog or digital does not necessarily mean it has a high or low impedance. In fact, all of the displays in a glass cockpit (aircraft), for example, are analog representations driven by digital circuits. Just because a meter has an analog display does not mean its impedance is low or even low enough to cause problems when measuring a digital circuit. DVOMs have their place but they are not required to work on anything in a Jeep. And when I stock up tools and parts for offroad trips, I take only my analog VOM which works far better for troubleshooting typical Jeep electrical problems than my DVOM would.

                              In fact, the very first analog VOM I constructed as a project for a college level engineering class many years ago had a very high 11 Megohm input impedance which was more than suitable for any computer or high impedance circuit measurement done even today. Note that it was an analog meter.

                              And in fact, using a low impedence analog meter will not harm the discrete component sensors mentioned by 6spdYJ in the least. They are nothing but variable resistors which could care less about the meter's impedance. Not to mention there are no sensors in a Jeep that could/would be harmed by using a low impedance VOM.

                              I have 45+ years of electrical/electronics experience in everything from high power RF to low power digital circuitry and have worked on/troubleshot pretty much any type of analog/digital circuits anyone can think of.
                              As it said analog meter works well for testing a tps. A digital meter with an analog pointer in a cockpit is still a digital meter isn't it? By the way the assumption that the average Jeeper would use a high dollar high impedance meter is somewhat silly isn't it? Seems to me it would be more of a Harbor Freight variety, which would still work for testing a TPS, but for a lot of other stuff a cheapy digital meter would be a better choice just my 2 cents and yes I have fixed cars, trucks and heavy equipment for a day or two
                              Last edited by aw12345; 03-08-12, 07:59 PM.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                You missed the point... a digital meter is not needed to work on a Jeep and neither will using an analog meter harm anything in a Jeep that a Jeeper can get to. Using a low impedance analog meter isn't going to harm anything mentioned in those posts which was my point.

                                You started your reply to my post by screaming "You are wrong" in response to my post that said an analog meter is fine for testing anything on a Jeep and I stand by that. And a display is analog or digital by how it represents its data... not its underlying electronics. For example, the attitude indiator used in a glass (aircraft) cockpit is an analog display... whether the underlying circuitry is digital or analog. I have taught these subjects so it's a subject I'm well versed in.

                                The bottom line is that a digital meter, cheap Harbor Freight or high-end Fluke, is not needed to work on a Jeep. The cheapest analog meter will work just fine for testing/measuring the sensors and circuits a Jeeper can get to in a Jeep. The only circuitry where a DVOM could be needed is sealed away inside the PCM where you can't get to it.

                                Read the Factory Service Manual some day and where it gives instructions for measuring things like resistance, it will only say "Connect an Ohmmeter"... it doesn't say to connect a high impedance DVOM. Not to mention an astute tech knows that an analog meter provides a far more easily interpreted indication of the condition of some components like a variable resistor's condition by how smoothly the needle rises and falls in step with moving the variable resistor's input shaft.

                                Which is the same reason cockpit displays only had a short-lived digital indicator life. Pilots were so vocal about how all digital displays were slower to interpret that the aircraft industry quickly went back to analog instrument representations. They were still driven by the underlying digital circuitry but the displays themselves were analog... in other words, they had pointers that moved around pointing to numbers or were moving horizons, attitudes, etc. instead of just numerical data. Analog displays are much easier and faster to interpret than digital displays are. All numbers are mind-numbing to anyone who has to interpet them quickly... which is why you don't find digital speedometers, tachometers, etc. in cars anymore either. All of the TJ's and JK's instruments are all analog for ease of interpretation though the circuitry driving them is digital.
                                Last edited by Jerry Bransford; 03-08-12, 08:40 PM.
                                The Geezer Jeep: http://www.greentractortalk.com/jerryb/index.htm

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