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  • #31
    Originally posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
    You missed the point... a digital meter is not needed to work on a Jeep and neither will using an analog meter harm anything in a Jeep that a Jeeper can get to. Using a low impedance analog meter isn't going to harm anything mentioned in those posts which was my point.

    You started your reply to my post by screaming "You are wrong" in response to my post that said an analog meter is fine for testing anything on a Jeep and I stand by that. And a display is analog or digital by how it represents its data... not its underlying electronics. For example, the attitude indiator used in a glass (aircraft) cockpit is an analog display... whether the underlying circuitry is digital or analog. I have taught these subjects so it's a subject I'm well versed in.

    The bottom line is that a digital meter, cheap Harbor Freight or high-end Fluke, is not needed to work on a Jeep. The cheapest analog meter will work just fine for testing/measuring the sensors and circuits a Jeeper can get to in a Jeep. The only circuitry where a DVOM could be needed is sealed away inside the PCM where you can't get to it.

    Read the Factory Service Manual some day and where it gives instructions for measuring things like resistance, it will only say "Connect an Ohmmeter"... it doesn't say to connect a high impedance DVOM. Not to mention an astute tech knows that an analog meter provides a far more easily interpreted indication of the condition of some components like a variable resistor's condition by how smoothly the needle rises and falls in step with moving the variable resistor's input shaft.

    Which is the same reason cockpit displays only had a short-lived digital indicator life. Pilots were so vocal about how all digital displays were slower to interpret that the aircraft industry quickly went back to analog instrument representations. They were still driven by the underlying digital circuitry but the displays themselves were analog... in other words, they had pointers that moved around pointing to numbers or were moving horizons, attitudes, etc. instead of just numerical data. Analog displays are much easier and faster to interpret than digital displays are. All numbers are mind-numbing to anyone who has to interpet them quickly... which is why you don't find digital speedometers, tachometers, etc. in cars anymore either. All of the TJ's and JK's instruments are all analog for ease of interpretation though the circuitry driving them is digital.
    Jerry I think you need the factory manual a little better. Any car manufacturer, truck and equipment manufacturer clearly states in all there service literature to use a digital volt ohm meter when working on Electronic engine, transmission and abs systems.
    So you are telling us that you know better than all these engineers that cobble this stuff together?
    I can post Stuff out of Mitchel on demand for any car manufacturer they all state the same. There is some truth to your statement if you know what you are doing. Lots of folks don't and to let them loose with something that could do potential harm to their beloved Automobile isn't such a good idea. Lets leave it at that and stop derailing this thread.

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    • #32
      Wow. I love a spirited conversation. The best thing about this site is that there are so many different people with different styles and different approaches to fixing different problems. This is truly an example of synergy... or the whole is greater than the sum of its parts: 1+1+1= 5 in this case. There are different ways to skin a cat in this case.

      On an even more positive note... I found out the cause of my near "death wobble" in my front steering. The Jam nuts on the tie rod end constantly vibrate loose and thus cause significant vibrations in my steering. I few turns with a 1" crescent wrench solved the problem!!! My Jeep now hauls ass on the freeway and now drives straight as an arrow!

      So now that the vibrations are fixed and the engine is running smoothly... I have to ask if any one who has the Rancho Rs9000 9 way adjustable shocks has ever installed the 'cockpit controller" to make adjusting them easier than crawling under the jeep all the time? Is it worth the extra cost? I think it involves another compressor of some sort as well as wiring. I figure if I am going to take the time to install that I might as well install one of those super small mini Superwinch suck down winches at the same time. The limiting strap is nice but since I am running a spare and new cargo rack above the spare in the rear, I figure the suck down will help dramatically when doing near virticle climbs. i don't want to leave the spare back in camp.

      Brett

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      • #33
        They come loose for a reason!
        Re-balance your tires.
        Double nut those T/rod nuts if you have enough thread.
        LG
        Hav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....

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        • #34
          Originally posted by vwtipeii View Post
          Wow. I love a spirited conversation. The best thing about this site is that there are so many different people with different styles and different approaches to fixing different problems. This is truly an example of synergy... or the whole is greater than the sum of its parts: 1+1+1= 5 in this case. There are different ways to skin a cat in this case.

          On an even more positive note... I found out the cause of my near "death wobble" in my front steering. The Jam nuts on the tie rod end constantly vibrate loose and thus cause significant vibrations in my steering. I few turns with a 1" crescent wrench solved the problem!!! My Jeep now hauls ass on the freeway and now drives straight as an arrow!

          So now that the vibrations are fixed and the engine is running smoothly... I have to ask if any one who has the Rancho Rs9000 9 way adjustable shocks has ever installed the 'cockpit controller" to make adjusting them easier than crawling under the jeep all the time? Is it worth the extra cost? I think it involves another compressor of some sort as well as wiring. I figure if I am going to take the time to install that I might as well install one of those super small mini Superwinch suck down winches at the same time. The limiting strap is nice but since I am running a spare and new cargo rack above the spare in the rear, I figure the suck down will help dramatically when doing near virticle climbs. i don't want to leave the spare back in camp.

          Brett
          Personally I think we should crawl under our jeep more than usual to check things out. Example checking the jam nuts on your tre's among other things lol. Suck down winch sounds like a good idea with all that weight and higher cog your goin to have. Could be the difference of a flop or not lol.

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          • #35
            Actually a limit strap with less 2" of slack should work just fine with coilovers. Suckdown winch is cool but when you forget to loosen it up in the heat of crawling the result could be less then desirable Is one of the contributors to flopping my yellow beasty.
            Brett, for those jam nuts a little bit of red loctite might be a good idea to help them stay tight.

            By the way fun stuff Eh Brett
            Last edited by aw12345; 03-10-12, 06:37 PM.

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            • #36
              Brett I have a suckdown setup on my jeep that also works as a limit strap. I never use the suckdown, but the limit strap works great. If you get the anti squat dialed in it will help alot with the front lifting
              IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!

              Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!

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              • #37
                That sounds like it makes sense. Next time we take it out we can see if I have too much slack in the new limiting strap or if it is set up correctly. i ditched the wire winch line so that took 30 lbs off the front and with the new rack above the spare that will add 30 lbs to the back. Good thing I have the 100" now... and the Jeep is stretched too

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