hit oilpan pretty good, anything I should be checking?

[Roundeyes]

I would say new pan and skid. My :2:

X2
Get a new pan and skid.

[daniel_buck]

yes, skid for sure! I guess I might as well replace the pan, eh? I am assuming that it's just as simple as draining the oil, removing all the bolts and popping it off? And the new pan just bolts back on with the gasket in place, no other things needed to remove?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/51009_XX_PG.htm

That, for $99, is that a good replacement? It only says up to 2005, but I can't imagine the 2006 TJ 4.0 has a different pan than the 2005 4.0?

[aw12345]

Should fit, you could look into the Savvy skid setup. Makes for a nice belly up and engine skid in one.

[6spdYJ]

Depending on your mileage, while the pan is off do the rear main seal. Don't let it be intimidating. Cleaning the inside of the pan is harder than replacing the seal.

[daniel_buck]

yea, the savvy UA is really what I'd like under there. I'd just have to make sure I could get it installed all in one weekend so I could drive it to work on monday! It sounds like fairly lengthy install process, especially if the nutserts need to be replaced if they break loose? I usually tend to take a long time to install things anyway, I'm not the greatest mechanic, so I take things nice and slow

Thanks for the tip on the rear main seal, I hear that the 4.0s pretty much all need that replaced! I take it the rear main seal is not part of the main oilpan gasket? I have just under 110k miles. I suppose I should probably crack open the owners manual and find out what needs to be done after 100k, I'm sure there's a good laundry list there!

[Jeeperator]

Should fit, you could look into the Savvy skid setup. Makes for a nice belly up and engine skid in one.

Dont forget it also comes with low profile transfer case mount, engine lift, 1.25 body lift and exaust hanger all in one package. I could of installed it in a couple of hours but aftermarket exaust got in the way. If anything you just do it in steps in and still drive it after each install step.

[6spdYJ]

The rear main is easy. Make sure you get the rear main kit - it's a lot cheaper than getting the pan kit and the rear seal. In a nutshell, drop the pan, pull the rear main cap, drive one end of the rear main in with a punch and pull it out from the other side. Clean out the seal seat with some carb cleaner and slide the new seal in place. Just be sure you have the upper piece facing the same way the original came out. The old way to help the seal was to slightly offset the seal, just push one side in about 1/4" so the mating surfaces are contained within the block and cap - instead of having the joints of the seal matching the joints of the mains. Put just a dot of RTV at the seal joints and put it all back together. Torque it down and put the pan back on.

That Savvy looks like a great option. Another fast and easy means of protection is to rough up the bottom of the pan with a sanding disc and glue a 3/16"-1/4" thick piece of plate onto the bottom with RTV. There's a pretty good description on offroaders.com.

[daniel_buck]

if it can be done in steps, that's great! After going through that big thread on JF, it seems like quite a few people had to cut and make fit the skid due to exhaust and such, even with stock exhaust.

I do have a 1.25" body lift, but I probably don't have the motormount lift that the kit requires, I just have the regular JKS motormount lift.



Thanks for the breakdown on the rear main seal! I may do that quick protection on the pan in the mean time, just incase I hit it again.

[6spdYJ]

Feel free to pick my brain. I don't use it much.

[curtis]

Daniel the way you are progressing in your offroad adventures. I would think about the best way for you to put a skidplate for both the engine and trans that gives you better clearance and protection. Do it right the frist time and don't do it twice. My:2:

[daniel_buck]

yea, that's what I'm kinda holding out for, a transfer case/engine skid, hopefully Uncle Sam is nice to me in a few weeks

I'm looking at either the Savvy, or the UCF. Probably go with Savvy. I'll worry about the gas tank skid later, it's not causing any problems, just gets hit alot.

[curtis]

I would go with the UCF. It looks like what I did, and mine has pasted the test so far. I think you need too think about your suspension and where you are going with the jeep before you commit to the Savvy skid.

[daniel_buck]

The only thing else I want to do with the suspension is put JJs up front, and get the shock mounts moved towards the wheels more, or something that gets them out of the way a bit. I don't have any plans to go long arms or anything like that. I've put enough money into the jeep, and it's gotten me through every trail so far!

er.... at least that's the plan. haha

I don't want to go any taller or any larger on the tires (will have trouble fitting in garages) so I don't think I'll be messing with the suspension much more.

[curtis]

Then I would say go with something like the UCF. I think the Savvy might be a little over build for what you want to do.

[aw12345]

Then I would say go with something like the UCF. I think the Savvy might be a little over build for what you want to do.

The UFC aluminum skid does not hold up well to rocks, The Savvy setup has a separate crossmember which is way cool.
Stick that in first on a weekend and then install the rest and deal with exhaust fitting the next. For aluminum stuff the savvy setup is as good as it gets plus Gerald is a heck of a stand up guy