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Check the blade on the throttle body.there should be a couple of holes in it so that it can idle. Sometimes gunk will build up on the blade and plug the holes, Kevin.
By blade do you mean the flapper thing?
Any luck getting it dialed in Geeb?
That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.
Got it fixed fella,s Thanks for the tips....Cleaned the damn thing was dirty..Then check engine light would,nt go off took it apart again then made sure all was perfect BINGO no more light...
"A man who fears suffering,is already suffering from what he fears"!
yup Joe it was the throttle body it was filthy as were all the little componets attached to it with tiny torc screws I had to take it back off a few times cause the (Check engine) light came on ..guess it wasn,t sealed but it went off and has stayed off ,and is idling fine no more stalls,I just took info from guys on here and there was a write up for "dummies" with pic,s as well as my Hynes manual to help me thru..LOL. I used to be couldn,t change the oil feels good to do even simple things like this here...and saved a few bucks I,m sure.........
"A man who fears suffering,is already suffering from what he fears"!
Beau ,just had it smogged in November passed right away , but to reset the computer all I have to do is disconnect the battery and reconnect that,s it?
"A man who fears suffering,is already suffering from what he fears"!
Yea no biggie just reset it before your next smog.
Don't reset it too close to when want to smog it. The computer needs some time to set some readiness flags to allow the smog test to pass (if you have an ODBII system):
Drive your vehicle for one week under normal driving conditions. During this period the emissions computer is gathering data and re-learning your vehicle's emissions components and systems. The emissions computer OBDII (on-board diagnostics) system must complete at least one drive cycle (in some cases two or three). A drive cycle is a sequence of internal tests which the emissions computer runs while your vehicle is being driven. This insures all emissions systems are functioning properly. Proper "readiness flags" are set as the computer completes it's cycles. Test cycles are unique to a vehicle. Certain cycles run under very strict parameters, and may require extended driving time to trigger on. Cycle data and readiness flag information is available through your dealership's service department. The data vary widely.
To reset the computer, you need to take both battery terminals off and hold them together for a minute or 2. Just disconnecting the negative battery does not erase codes and does not reset it. Also after that it has to relearn and do a complete OBD2 drive cycle.
Which is basically something like 30 minutes of city and then about 30 minutes of highway driving. When you reset the computer it might idle really low for awhile, but it will normalize after some driving.
To reset the computer, you need to take both battery terminals off and hold them together for a minute or 2. Just disconnecting the negative battery does not erase codes and does not reset it. Also after that it has to relearn and do a complete OBD2 drive cycle.
Which is basically something like 30 minutes of city and then about 30 minutes of highway driving. When you reset the computer it might idle really low for awhile, but it will normalize after some driving.
Art I have disconnected negative terminal plenty of times and my ecm has been reset. Even checked it on freds and my buddies shop scannner. Maybe the later models are different mines a 1997 obd2.
Don't reset it too close to when want to smog it. The computer needs some time to set some readiness flags to allow the smog test to pass (if you have an ODBII system):
Thats why in my previouse post I said a couple days before you smog. After resettin the ob2 ecm does need to relearn as you drive and has to go through a few different stages. If you smog right after reseting the ecm the ob2 scanner will through up a red flag.
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