Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

carter carb

Collapse

Forum Thread First Post

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • carter carb

    So I followed the instructions on how to clean the idle tubes on my YJ. Seemed innocent enough. My problem is that when I got done my jeep runs like crap. Way worse than before. The little gaskets that were between the Venturi Cluster were pretty shredded. Could that be causing my problem? Any other thoughts? If so, anybody know where to get replacement gaskets for the stock Carter carb.? I know if I take it in to the shop I'm gonna lose a weeks pay.

    this is the tech guide I followed.
    http://www.yellowjeep.org/Carb.html
    Tweezle,
    87' Wrangler
    Black Beauty

  • #2
    Re: carter carb

    Originally posted by tweezle
    So I followed the instructions on how to clean the idle tubes on my YJ. Seemed innocent enough. My problem is that when I got done my jeep runs like crap. Way worse than before. The little gaskets that were between the Venturi Cluster were pretty shredded. Could that be causing my problem? Any other thoughts? If so, anybody know where to get replacement gaskets for the stock Carter carb.? I know if I take it in to the shop I'm gonna lose a weeks pay.

    this is the tech guide I followed.
    http://www.yellowjeep.org/Carb.html
    I'm guessing that in little gaskets sre now causing a vacuum leak. Call around to some parts houses, you'll be suprised . . . they just might have it.
    [COLOR=blue]Chris[/COLOR]
    SAVE JOHNSON VALLEY!!! - CLICK HERE
    Ya Savvy?

    Motech Performance

    Comment


    • #3
      I found a rebuild kit w/gaskets at NAPA. Another question, The article says to drill out the idle tubes to .032". The smallest drill bit I can find @ the local hardware store are .040". Is that probably way to big? Is it gonna make a huge difference?
      Tweezle,
      87' Wrangler
      Black Beauty

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by tweezle
        I found a rebuild kit w/gaskets at NAPA. Another question, The article says to drill out the idle tubes to .032". The smallest drill bit I can find @ the local hardware store are .040". Is that probably way to big? Is it gonna make a huge difference?
        How do you plan on holding the item being drilled? If you have access to a Mill of drill press, Use it! A hand drill will not yeild a very accurate hole. With that said, yes, it makes a difference. On that note of accuracy, they make small needle like things with serrated adges, like a file. You run these things in and out of the hole to open it up. Tip cleaners for oxy/act torches are the same thing. Hope that helped
        [COLOR=blue]Chris[/COLOR]
        SAVE JOHNSON VALLEY!!! - CLICK HERE
        Ya Savvy?

        Motech Performance

        Comment


        • #5
          Didn't drill out the tubes, just cleaned them out real good. The new gaskets did the trick, well sort of. I got it back to running at least as good as it did before I opened this can of worms. At least on the test drive anyways. I have the top and doors off, It is only about 35 degrees up here in Minnesota so I am not driving to far or to fast at this time. It is really chilly at 60mph. Thanks for the input.
          Tweezle,
          87' Wrangler
          Black Beauty

          Comment


          • #6
            no problem, glad I could help. Let us know how it goes.
            [COLOR=blue]Chris[/COLOR]
            SAVE JOHNSON VALLEY!!! - CLICK HERE
            Ya Savvy?

            Motech Performance

            Comment


            • #7
              It has warmed up a little and I have driving around with the jeep alot more. I also replaced the distributer cap and rotary arm. When the engine is cold it still idles like crap. Once the engine warms up it is idling great. Maybe the idle tubes clogged again? with pieces of the old gasket? I don't really know anymore.
              Tweezle,
              87' Wrangler
              Black Beauty

              Comment


              • #8
                I had problems with my 258 ... up until I sold it. I know they have nutter bypass and so forth. Try reading up on this ... maybe it will help:

                http://www.jeeptech.com/engine/amc258.html

                Just my 0.02

                Comment


                • #9
                  Spray wd-40 or carb cleaner around the throttle shaft where it goes into the carb body. If it idles up when you do this, you have a vacuum leak around the shaft. I think every Carter has this problem, often even "rebuilt" units. The only way to correct it is to take the carb to a shop and have them install bushings in the throttle housing so that the shaft has a good seal. This will generally cost around ~$200. That said, what I have done is taken the computer out of the loop with the Nutter bypass to allow manual tuning of the idle mixture. I haven't drilled out the tubes, just cleaned them like you say. I don't think drilling is really necessary.

                  The computer is the reason that it idles like crap under cold conditions. The TAC system (the vacuum motors on the intake) are tied to a temp switch in the intake. Once intake temp comes up to close the switch, the computer uses a different O2 sensor setting (not as rich), so the idle smoothes out. Do you still have your intake air heater hose installed and not leaking? (The silver metallic tube that goes from the exhaust manifold to the intake.) If that is missing or is leaking cool air, it will take longer for the intake air temp to come up and make it idle crappy longer. None of that silly mess does anything if you do the Nutter bypass, so I don't worry about it any more. Also check the vacuum switches on the firewall (just above the valve cover, usually yellow). These are notorious for failure, and the assembly is only available from the dealer for a mere $85. Like I say, if you do the Nutter bypass you won't have to worry about these things any more and you can tune the carb manually with the idle mixture screws on the front of the carb just like any other carb.
                  1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
                  My Jeep

                  Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Check out this link http://www.windyvista.com/carter_bbd...o_the_mc21.htm
                    It's worth the swap.
                    Dave

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X