carter carb

[tweezle]

So I followed the instructions on how to clean the idle tubes on my YJ. Seemed innocent enough. My problem is that when I got done my jeep runs like crap. Way worse than before. The little gaskets that were between the Venturi Cluster were pretty shredded. Could that be causing my problem? Any other thoughts? If so, anybody know where to get replacement gaskets for the stock Carter carb.? I know if I take it in to the shop I'm gonna lose a weeks pay.

this is the tech guide I followed.
http://www.yellowjeep.org/Carb.html

[Dukes69]

Re: carter carb

Originally posted by tweezle
So I followed the instructions on how to clean the idle tubes on my YJ. Seemed innocent enough. My problem is that when I got done my jeep runs like crap. Way worse than before. The little gaskets that were between the Venturi Cluster were pretty shredded. Could that be causing my problem? Any other thoughts? If so, anybody know where to get replacement gaskets for the stock Carter carb.? I know if I take it in to the shop I'm gonna lose a weeks pay.

this is the tech guide I followed.
http://www.yellowjeep.org/Carb.html

I'm guessing that in little gaskets sre now causing a vacuum leak. Call around to some parts houses, you'll be suprised . . . they just might have it.

[tweezle]

I found a rebuild kit w/gaskets at NAPA. Another question, The article says to drill out the idle tubes to .032". The smallest drill bit I can find @ the local hardware store are .040". Is that probably way to big? Is it gonna make a huge difference?

[Dukes69]

Originally posted by tweezle
I found a rebuild kit w/gaskets at NAPA. Another question, The article says to drill out the idle tubes to .032". The smallest drill bit I can find @ the local hardware store are .040". Is that probably way to big? Is it gonna make a huge difference?

How do you plan on holding the item being drilled? If you have access to a Mill of drill press, Use it! A hand drill will not yeild a very accurate hole. With that said, yes, it makes a difference. On that note of accuracy, they make small needle like things with serrated adges, like a file. You run these things in and out of the hole to open it up. Tip cleaners for oxy/act torches are the same thing. Hope that helped

[tweezle]

Didn't drill out the tubes, just cleaned them out real good. The new gaskets did the trick, well sort of. I got it back to running at least as good as it did before I opened this can of worms. At least on the test drive anyways. I have the top and doors off, It is only about 35 degrees up here in Minnesota so I am not driving to far or to fast at this time. It is really chilly at 60mph. Thanks for the input.

[Dukes69]

no problem, glad I could help. Let us know how it goes.

[tweezle]

It has warmed up a little and I have driving around with the jeep alot more. I also replaced the distributer cap and rotary arm. When the engine is cold it still idles like crap. Once the engine warms up it is idling great. Maybe the idle tubes clogged again? with pieces of the old gasket? I don't really know anymore.

[arl1984]

I had problems with my 258 ... up until I sold it. I know they have nutter bypass and so forth. Try reading up on this ... maybe it will help:

http://www.jeeptech.com/engine/amc258.html

Just my 0.02

[rick]

Spray wd-40 or carb cleaner around the throttle shaft where it goes into the carb body. If it idles up when you do this, you have a vacuum leak around the shaft. I think every Carter has this problem, often even "rebuilt" units. The only way to correct it is to take the carb to a shop and have them install bushings in the throttle housing so that the shaft has a good seal. This will generally cost around ~$200. That said, what I have done is taken the computer out of the loop with the Nutter bypass to allow manual tuning of the idle mixture. I haven't drilled out the tubes, just cleaned them like you say. I don't think drilling is really necessary.

The computer is the reason that it idles like crap under cold conditions. The TAC system (the vacuum motors on the intake) are tied to a temp switch in the intake. Once intake temp comes up to close the switch, the computer uses a different O2 sensor setting (not as rich), so the idle smoothes out. Do you still have your intake air heater hose installed and not leaking? (The silver metallic tube that goes from the exhaust manifold to the intake.) If that is missing or is leaking cool air, it will take longer for the intake air temp to come up and make it idle crappy longer. None of that silly mess does anything if you do the Nutter bypass, so I don't worry about it any more. Also check the vacuum switches on the firewall (just above the valve cover, usually yellow). These are notorious for failure, and the assembly is only available from the dealer for a mere $85. Like I say, if you do the Nutter bypass you won't have to worry about these things any more and you can tune the carb manually with the idle mixture screws on the front of the carb just like any other carb.

[Jeeper Creeper]

Check out this link http://www.windyvista.com/carter_bbd...o_the_mc21.htm
It's worth the swap.
Dave