Towing Question

[TJ Clay]

I've flat towed my TJ behind my motorhome for the last 3 years and i dont really miss not having a trailer. The only problem is you cannot back one up more then a few feet. My V10 pulls it no problem and stops it great. I've towed it a couple times behind my Tacoma 4.0 and it pulls it fine but its definetly sketchy stopping it but i've only pulled it short distances.

[Guest]

I've flat towed my TJ behind my motorhome for the last 3 years and i dont really miss not having a trailer. The only problem is you cannot back one up more then a few feet. My V10 pulls it no problem and stops it great. I've towed it a couple times behind my Tacoma 4.0 and it pulls it fine but its definetly sketchy stopping it but i've only pulled it short distances.

:hijack: Not sure if I would use a Tacoma (mini truck). Most issues happen within 10 miles from home? Also, I think your vehicle doing the towing has to be 40% heavier? I think those both weight the same? Motor may pull it fine. It's the panic stops when my family is in front of you stopped in traffic is when you learn to late, your brakes are under powered.

This post/thread is awsome. I think it has taught some, myself included. The do's and dont's in towing to keep not only your family safe, but other families on the road safe.

[Roger]

Ok Ron your hijacking your own thread!!

I hope someone will answer my two questions a few posts back!

[Guest]

Ok Ron your hijacking your own thread!!

I hope someone will answer my two questions a few posts back!

<---Laughing

I thought post #40 answered it?

[GP4Play]

This is a really great thread. Thanks Ron for the research. I want to start flat towing my CJ7 if I'm going any distance. 150 mi+)

It was stated eariler that the transfer case must be in nuetral and the transmission must be in gear. Two questions:
1. Does that apply to both Automatic & manual transmissions?
2. Are there any differnt requirements for a Dana 300 T-case and a maunual transmission?

One thing I could add: Study the route you are going to take and be prepared for downshifting at down grades. I can't even count how many times I've seen people ride their brakes coming down the back way from Big Bear. Their brakes are just smokin' and just continue driving fat, dumb, & happy...

Old Fart: You need to make friends with an FBO Fueler

Roger,I've flat towed my CJ7 as far as Fresno with no problems.I just put trans and TC in N,key on,and un-hook the battery.Was told though that it's a good idea to un-hook Rr.driveline so you don't burn up Rr.output bearing on the TC.

[Mitch]

Roger,

I'll tow you in the morning if the "chat room" posts scare you. No problem to make it to the trails. And Dennis has it correct if you read the factory manual (from the experts). Clay and Dennis, PM's sent.

[Ol Man]

Ok Ron your hijacking your own thread!!

I hope someone will answer my two questions a few posts back!

Roger, my CJ7 owners manual said to put the transfer case in neutral, the transmission in high and have the key in the unlocked position. As I remember, they also recommended starting and running the engine for about 10 minutes every 200 miles and shifting the transmission. I am away from my home so I can't go look at the manual.

[Lumpy Grits]

FWIW: I have flat-towed my CJ-7 all over the country and it only take 5-10 minutes to pull the rear d/s.
AMC knew about the oil issues(it's the rear d/s output bearing BTW)with the Dana 300t/c and I have seen and rebuilt a few that got "smoked" by towing and following what the "book" sez....
I bet if you see how many $$$$$ a rebuilt Dana 300 goes for in todays world, you WILL take the time and pull that rear d/s.
Respectfully,
LG

[Dezertdog]

I think I'll just get a RV!:hide:

Too much to worry about with my truck, which is too small for the job anyway.

Great thread.

Scott

[OU812]

I think the best answer for towing a Jeep is a dolly. You can buy them with surge brakes for $750. You don't need a parking space because you can lean it up on the side of your garage. And if you are worried about the Tcase carry a 8mm wrench so you can disconnect the rear driveshaft. And as and added bonus your can back up with a dolly like you cant. when you are flat towing. I think this is going to be my solution to tow my YJ with the wife's 3.4L V6 4Runner.

[2blk2drs]

[QUOTE=OU812;145752 And if you are worried about the Tcase carry a 8mm wrench so you can disconnect the rear driveshaft. [/QUOTE]

Those with the 231 dont need to worry about d/c driveshafts, as this transfercase has a little pump inside that is driven off the main shaft. Its only on the D300 that this is a problem due to the case relying on splash oiling.

[OU812]

due to the case relying on splash oiling.

My old chevy relies on splash oiling too. IN THE MOTOR:gun:

[2blk2drs]

guess you better go disconnect the driveshaft, otherwise all the stress you put on it might burn up that old pig

[alittleoff]

I've towed the Jeep ('03 w/Atlas II) to Montana twice behind a 31' Moho, first time flat towed with the rear d/s disconnected and without the help of brakes. Second time with a 14' tandem axle trailer with brakes on both axles, I felt much safer on those smaller and steeper back roads. I'm a commercial driver and you just look far enough ahead to see the big picture, but also, you deal with the surprises accordingly.


Steve

[30-284]

Those with the 231 dont need to worry about d/c driveshafts, as this transfercase has a little pump inside

As long as it is a TJ as the YJ 231 has no pump.

Donn