Towing Question

[Jason]

There is definitely some good info here. I've flat towed enough times to want to upgrade the truck's brakes. I wouldn't mind some braking assistance for the Jeep but it is pricey. Coming down from Big Bear can be a knuckle whitening experience. I tow with an F-150 and coming down the hills, you feel like you are being pushed down. On the other hand, there were times towing up to the Rubicon, that I forgot it was there. But I have to agree, just because there is no law requiring brake assistance with a tow bar doesn't mean its safe.

[Guest]

I agree Jason. I towed with the Avalanche before "1500". Big difference between a 1500 and 2500. I had heavy duty pads at that time. Came back replaced them with severe duty pads from napa. It did help! I felt more comfortable. But, rear brakes would have helped a ton. That is on my list to do's.

[FishPOET]

<snip>...its braking power must be sufficient to stop the combined weight of the vehicle plus the car and/or tow dolly effectively.

but a breakaway switch is not.

A breakaway switch only engages when the towed vehicle breaks away from the tow vehicle. It is usually part of a brake assist system, but should not be confused with a complete brake assist system.

Many of the better tow dollies have brake assist systems built into the dollies.

There is not a 1/2 ton truck manufactured with enough braking power to SAFELY stop the combined weight of the vehicle, its occupants and gear plus the Jeep and/or tow dolly effectively.

[Guest]

A breakaway switch only engages when the towed vehicle breaks away from the tow vehicle. It is usually part of a brake assist system, but should not be confused with a complete brake assist system.

Many of the better tow dollies have brake assist systems built into the dollies.

There is not a 1/2 ton truck manufactured with enough braking power to SAFELY stop the combined weight of the vehicle, its occupants and gear plus the Jeep and/or tow dolly effectively.

I agree I have towed with a Grand Cherokee SCAREY, then I have towed with a 1500 suburban. Better. Then a F250 Diesel, and 1500 Avalanche. Nothing compares to the "F250" or 2500. I think the only reason the Avalanche did ok, was I upgraded the brakes to napa severe duty (not heavy duty). You could tell. Cheap insurance. Are you listening Scott? If your due for some pads, upgrade them. Skip the ceramic (been there) and regular duty. I am a fan of the napa gold severe duty

[Old Fart]

Why I own a F350 diesel. Between the brakes and the "tow/haul" mode - if you find a way to get the USS Nimitz on a trailer, I'll tow it

Still working up the tow bar for the YJ (other priorities keep getting in the way)

[Guest]

I had a 03 F250 diesel/7.3. It was chipped. Built trans, 6.0 cooler (direct bolt on). Etc, etc. I still think there was a limit on what she could tow safely. I towed 11,000 lbs before. She could have done maybe 15k lbs. But, I think that was it on the safe side. When it wasn't chipped, I had a hill that almost owned me towing the 11k lbs. She almost didn't want to pull it. But, she was the best truck I had. Chipped, she would run with the mustangs.

[Old Fart]

'06 F350CC, 4WD. Only thing I put in it is diesel (until I figure out how to sneak Jet-A off the airfield)

[Guest]

'06 F350CC, 4WD. Only thing I put in it is diesel (until I figure out how to sneak Jet-A off the airfield)

Ya, that's the 6.0. Different animal. I know both motor and the difference. The 03-04 was a good year for the 6.0. So, I went with the 7.3l. 2003 was the last year it came out. There is other things you could run in it Not sure about the 6.0. I heard it is picky. I have saw vidoes on both motors and the differences. Diesels hate smog crap. The 6.0 changed it injectors from the 7.3l and you had to watch what you put in it I heard and saw. When a 6.0 is chipped, it makes the most HP out of all diesel trucks Just FYI.

[Roger]

This is a really great thread. Thanks Ron for the research. I want to start flat towing my CJ7 if I'm going any distance. 150 mi+)

It was stated eariler that the transfer case must be in nuetral and the transmission must be in gear. Two questions:
1. Does that apply to both Automatic & manual transmissions?
2. Are there any differnt requirements for a Dana 300 T-case and a maunual transmission?

One thing I could add: Study the route you are going to take and be prepared for downshifting at down grades. I can't even count how many times I've seen people ride their brakes coming down the back way from Big Bear. Their brakes are just smokin' and just continue driving fat, dumb, & happy...

Old Fart: You need to make friends with an FBO Fueler

[Double AA]

I also had a D300 transfer case and the manual said TC in neutral and the transmission in gear. There is some concern that the D300 wont get enough lubrication when flat towed. I flat towed mine for years locally and several trips to Rubicon and Dusey. You can always remove the drive shaft from the rear end and tie it up out of the way. It takes less than 10 minutes and it sure couldn't hurt.

[Guest]

This is a really great thread. Thanks Ron for the research. I want to start flat towing my CJ7 if I'm going any distance. 150 mi+)

It was stated eariler that the transfer case must be in nuetral and the transmission must be in gear. Two questions:
1. Does that apply to both Automatic & manual transmissions?
2. Are there any differnt requirements for a Dana 300 T-case and a maunual transmission?

One thing I could add: Study the route you are going to take and be prepared for downshifting at down grades. I can't even count how many times I've seen people ride their brakes coming down the back way from Big Bear. Their brakes are just smokin' and just continue driving fat, dumb, & happy...

Old Fart: You need to make friends with an FBO Fueler

Thanks Roger. I see people riding their brakes all the time on the 15fwy as well. If they would just use a lower gear, even on a auto trans it would help this. I have put mine in 3rd on my auto trans before to keep me from riding the brakes when towing. Glad you brought that up Roger. People do forget.

[Double AA]

Ya, that's the 6.0. Different animal. I know both motor and the difference. The 03-04 was a good year for the 6.0. So, I went with the 7.3l. 2003 was the last year it came out. There is other things you could run in it Not sure about the 6.0. I heard it is picky. I have saw vidoes on both motors and the differences. Diesels hate smog crap. The 6.0 changed it injectors from the 7.3l and you had to watch what you put in it I heard and saw. When a 6.0 is chipped, it makes the most HP out of all diesel trucks Just FYI.

The first couple of years the 6.0 was out it suffered from head bolt failures. I have a 7.3 F250 with a tuner, Turbonetics turbo, AFE intake and 4" exhaust. On a chassis dyno it put out 326 hp and 703 foot pound of torque. The truck weights 7,500 lbs, and I routinely tow 11k pounds. It does real well but on the long hills I do have to keep an eye on the EGTs.

I also have a new Dodge Cummings diesel (company car)with the 6 speed auto. Nice motor, nice trans, great brakes, why the hell did they put in in a Dodge. That is the most ill riding, hard steering truck I've ever driven.

And while I'm a Ford truck man, the only time I see a Ford win a dyno shootout is when the Dodge's and Chevy's stay home. Typically the six cylinder Cummings wins.

[Guest]

The first couple of years the 6.0 was out it suffered from head bolt failures. I have a 7.3 F250 with a tuner, Turbonetics turbo, AFE intake and 4" exhaust. On a chassis dyno it put out 326 hp and 703 foot pound of torque. The truck weights 7,500 lbs, and I routinely tow 11k pounds. It does real well but on the long hills I do have to keep an eye on the EGTs.

I also have a new Dodge Cummings diesel (company car)with the 6 speed auto. Nice motor, nice trans, great brakes, why the hell did they put in in a Dodge. That is the most ill riding, hard steering truck I've ever driven.

And while I'm a Ford truck man, the only time I see a Ford win a dyno shootout is when the Dodge's and Chevy's stay home. Typically the six cylinder Cummings wins.

I had the 4" turbo back Dyno max exhaust, intake, etc. too. Loved it! Without the tuner, 11k lbs is tough on some hills with the 7.3l. The 2003 model had the most HP and TQ too. That's why I put a tuner in mine. I went with Hypertech. Never had an issue. It's the only tuner that doesn't have small print that you can't tow factory weight. You can.

As for the Dodge. I have to agree as well. Dodge has an issue with the trans though. If you put a tuner on it, you better beaf up the trans! That is their week point. I heard you can order that motor and allison trans on a Dodge if I remember. But, the seats and ride is still there

Your right on the 6cyl. Although, the 6.0 Ford does well with a tuner. I have seen dyno's. 1300hp+ But, for most of us that's not the case. Sad part you can have a tuner, and a stock dodge, and the dodge will pass you without issue. Don't ask how I know

We can recap The Chevy has overheating issues, Ford is lack of power, and Dodge has issues with the trans and back ride & seats. I have personally watched vehicles tow. I have even counted on my way to Dumont. Ford is the #1 vehicle used to tow. At least that day it was. It's usally, Ford, Chevy, then Dodge. Which tells me people factor in the ride over the power

[Double AA]

Mine came with the Hypertech tuner. I took it off and installed the DP tuner. It's a whole other ball game' The DP comes with up to six different shift on the fly tunes, and also changes the shift points. I did have to put in a John Woods trany to keep up with the engine.

All the 7.3s were pretty much the same other than the factory tuning it was delivered with. The 2000 was the last year for the forged rods. After that they came with powdered metal.

Wow, I'm feeling kinda hillbilly right now. I think I'm going to roll up a pack of Marlboro's in the arm of my T shirt and take my diesel around the block.

[Guest]

Mine came with the Hypertech tuner. I took it off and installed the DP tuner. It's a whole other ball game' The DP comes with up to six different shift on the fly tunes, and also changes the shift points. I did have to put in a John Woods trany to keep up with the engine.

All the 7.3s were pretty much the same other than the factory tuning it was delivered with. The 2000 was the last year for the forged rods. After that they came with powdered metal.

Wow, I'm feeling kinda hillbilly right now. I think I'm going to roll up a pack of Marlboro's in the arm of my T shirt and take my diesel around the block.

Good man! DP tuner is the best. Hands down. I got my HP3 before I learned about them. Again, you have done your home work. John Woods is great! When I did my trans, I couldn't make it down to him. So, I called him and ordered his stuff. He has you re-wire the trans lines, and remove stuff, etc, etc. I had the shop follow his instructions. When I built the Avalanche transmission. Again, I remembered what he had me do. Shift kit, Trans lines, etc. Did the same. A different shop did the Avalanche. But, once I said John Woods has you...The owner was on track what I wanted and knew of him. It was great! Again, trans is in excellent shape. He is a great guy with knowledge.

My Jeep knowledge isn't the best. But, towing, and diesel trucks, keeping your truck cool in temps for more power. I can chat with the best

:geek::geek::beer: