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Steering Stabilizer Hardware

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  • Steering Stabilizer Hardware

    I recently installed a Full Traction lift that has a drop front track bar bracket with a support bar that connects with frame on the passenger side. Unfortunately the steering stabilizer hardware (the nut on the top where the stabilizer connects to the drag link) is hitting the support bar when I stuff the passenger tire up into the wheelwell. I need hardware that is shorter so the stabilizer mounts closer to the draglink so it doesn't stick up so high. The hardware that came with my Rancho, has a fixed nut in the middle in between the drag link and the stablizer thats about 3/4 inch. Does anyone know of a company that makes shorter hardware or a way to mount the stabilizer properly without the provided hardware???
    That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

  • #2
    a currie setup is one solution. other than that....is it really banging alot?
    Ford Raptor 6.2l

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Tomb Raider 940 View Post
      a currie setup is one solution. other than that....is it really banging alot?
      Every time I the driver side droops or the passenger side gets stuffed. I bet it would be fine if I could just get it about a half inch shorter or so. Wondering if different brands have different length hardware? BTW . . . where did you get the puller we used to remove the stabilizer? I've been trying to find one at HF with no luck.
      That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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      • #4
        Any ideas? :dunno: Does anyone have an Old Man Emu one . . . by the pic, the spacer in the middle looks shorter.
        That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Schmo View Post
          Any ideas? :dunno: Does anyone have an Old Man Emu one . . .
          I do, post up a pic so I can see what you're talking about.
          [COLOR="Blue"]If you don't have the time to do it right, what makes you think you'll have the time to do it twice?[/COLOR]

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          • #6






            You can see the scrapes in the powder coat in the top two pics. The fixed nut in the middle between the drag link and the stabalizer is about 3/4" and it is not seated completely against the drag link so all together with the gap of about 1/8" and the fixed nut, the stabalizer sits about an inch away from the draglink.
            That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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            • #7
              I was hoping I could just find some hardware where the fixed nut in the middle is thinner so the stabalizer sits closer to the drag link and doesn't stick up so far. I tried to get the gap out by tightening the bottom bolt but that sucker is really tight . . . I figured I'd try pulling it and maybe use some fine grit sand paper/steelwool and see if I can get it to seat all the way flush, but don't know if that's going to be enough.
              Last edited by Schmo; 06-07-08, 02:54 PM.
              That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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              • #8
                Why don't you just remove the nut and put just enough washers to clear the shock body from the drag link?
                [COLOR="Blue"]If you don't have the time to do it right, what makes you think you'll have the time to do it twice?[/COLOR]

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Lawrence View Post
                  Why don't you just remove the nut and put just enough washers to clear the shock body from the drag link?
                  It's all one piece . . . the nut in the middle cannot be removed

                  I was originally thinking I could use a bolt from the top down with washers in between, but the hardware that is used has a pressure fitting that squeezes into the draglink, so I don't know if that would work.
                  Last edited by Schmo; 06-07-08, 03:43 PM.
                  That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                  • #10
                    Replace the nut on the top with 2 thin Grade 8 jam nuts and cut the rest of the stud off. You should gain about 1/2" by doing that. Will that be enough room?

                    Smaller Mom & Pop hardware stores usually have a dizzying selection of nuts. More anyway than Home Depot and Lowes.
                    "The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money."
                    -Margaret Thatcher

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Shadly1 View Post
                      Replace the nut on the top with 2 thin Grade 8 jam nuts and cut the rest of the stud off. You should gain about 1/2" by doing that. Will that be enough room?

                      Smaller Mom & Pop hardware stores usually have a dizzying selection of nuts. More anyway than Home Depot and Lowes.
                      That might do the trick . . . stupid noob questions . . . how should I cut it off? I'm just starting to build up my tool collection and I just bought a mini hacksaw a couple weeks ago . . . would it work? And would I just hack it off flush after the 2nd jam nut? Are there special jam nuts or will any flat thin nuts work?
                      That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                      • #12
                        Somewhere in my garage I have the one that came with my OME stabilizer (like in the pic below). If I can find it, it's yours, otherwise don't worry about it if it doesn't do any damage.



                        Edit: If you want to mod yours, use a washer, one nut, some Loctite, and cut off the excess with your favorite cutting tool.
                        Last edited by Lawrence; 06-07-08, 04:52 PM.
                        [COLOR="Blue"]If you don't have the time to do it right, what makes you think you'll have the time to do it twice?[/COLOR]

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                        • #13
                          Hey Lawrence . . . that hardware looks like exactly what I need! The center part is way shorter than what I've got. Let me know if you can find it!
                          That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Schmo View Post
                            That might do the trick . . . stupid noob questions . . . how should I cut it off? I'm just starting to build up my tool collection and I just bought a mini hacksaw a couple weeks ago . . . would it work? And would I just hack it off flush after the 2nd jam nut? Are there special jam nuts or will any flat thin nuts work?
                            I use an air-powered cut off tool but a hacksaw will work just fine. Try to get Grade 8 jam nuts... they will be bronze colored. You're taking away thickness and you need those threads to be STRONG.
                            "The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money."
                            -Margaret Thatcher

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                            • #15
                              Check this out . . . I wonder if I could contact Full Traction and just get the hardware??? This is basically what I was thinking but it looks like it has the tapered bushing to go thru the draglink which was my concern.

                              That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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