Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Routine Maintainence

Collapse

Forum Thread First Post

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Thanks Mike . . . maybe I'll flush the transfer case when I do my front diff.
    That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

    Comment


    • #17
      What's the best fluid Transfer Case and how much will I need assuming that I will make a mess at one point or another?:dunno: Totally forgot about the TC with the lift and bumps along the road! Better take care of this ASAP.
      Last edited by Schmo; 06-20-08, 07:15 PM.
      That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

      Comment


      • #18
        Another thing about rubi's to watch for is the caps in the front axle u-joints. The caps will start to turn, when they turn far enough they fall out. Then the clips will fall out and your axle u-joint will eat itself. Just use a sharpie and place a mark across the cap with a corresponding mark on the u-joint knuckle. Then it's simple to watch for rotation. Alas there is no real fix for it once it starts to happen. If it's under warranty they should replace it. I have heard of some people tack welding the cap to the knuckle though.
        2006 Rubicon Unlimited
        Lifted, Locked, and Armored for Rock

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by cmjrfan8 View Post
          Another thing about rubi's to watch for is the caps in the front axle u-joints. The caps will start to turn, when they turn far enough they fall out. Then the clips will fall out and your axle u-joint will eat itself. Just use a sharpie and place a mark across the cap with a corresponding mark on the u-joint knuckle. Then it's simple to watch for rotation. Alas there is no real fix for it once it starts to happen. If it's under warranty they should replace it. I have heard of some people tack welding the cap to the knuckle though.
          I'm having trouble envisioning this . . . do you have any pics? Once you're lifted and have bigger tires, will they still cover it under warranty?
          That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

          Comment


          • #20
            Schmo, I sent you a PM with my number. It would be easier to explain over the phone. I don't have pictures of them anymore.
            2006 Rubicon Unlimited
            Lifted, Locked, and Armored for Rock

            Comment


            • #21
              now that you have a 4" lift and big tires, be sure to routinely check all welds at any of the factory suspension or steering bracket mounts both on the axles and on the frame, for every component. i have heard from more than one person on more than one occasion they are not meant to deal with 33" tires and the added force of this size lift especially during off-road articulation, and the welds can crack and break off on you either on the trail or on the street, causing a breakage that will either be irrepairable on the trail without a trail welder, or possible injury or death if the welds fail on the street at 70mph.

              I know of a few individuals that can post from experience on this, so please chime if if you're one of them and you can provide a little more detail for Joe.
              03 TJ. It'll go 65mph...can't complain.

              Comment


              • #22
                yes I have seen this happen, the welds cracking. I have not experienced anything as I have the full traction lift with the tri-link, and no trac bar in the rear. Rigs with trac bars have had this problem. My buddy's broke on the trail and we had to use ratchet straps and chain to tie the axle in, to get him back to camp. As for the u-joint caps have only seen it happen when running 35's or bigger. Still running the front OE shafts{ I do carry spares) and have not had any issue.I think alot of failures also have to do with how you drive!!!!
                06 UNL RUBI 4.5 LA,KM 2-35's/ 4.88 BEADLOCKS/SKIDS/WINCH
                07 AT CHASER TRAILER

                Comment


                • #23
                  As for TC fluid I am using ROYAL PURPLE,good stuff. Drain at bottom screw, then fill till comes out of top hole, that is it.
                  06 UNL RUBI 4.5 LA,KM 2-35's/ 4.88 BEADLOCKS/SKIDS/WINCH
                  07 AT CHASER TRAILER

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    if your worried about not being able to take the oil filter off by hand, just do what i do and ram a screw driver through it. problem solved. regular maintenance is key to a good running jeep.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      So I'm approaching 30K and figured I'd go ahead and change the Transfer Case fluid and Cooling system. For the TC fluid . . . Is there a special weight or anything I should look for and how much will I need? Also, what all is involved with the cooling system? I'm had the idle pully replaced about 6K ago, the belt tensioner is being replaced today . . . I'm hoping that I can count on the dealership to make sure my belts are in good order while they're under there but I'll be sure to check them and the hoses. Other than that is it just draining and refilling . . . and what fluid do you recommend and how much will I need? The dealership told me I'll need new spark plugs at 30K . . . I'm trying to do what I can myself, but don't want to get in over my head either . . . what else needs to be done other than what I've mentioned in this post? (Diffs have been flushed, steering lubed regularly)
                      That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Schmo View Post
                        So I'm approaching 30K and figured I'd go ahead and change the Transfer Case fluid and Cooling system. For the TC fluid . . . Is there a special weight or anything I should look for and how much will I need? Also, what all is involved with the cooling system? I'm had the idle pully replaced about 6K ago, the belt tensioner is being replaced today . . . I'm hoping that I can count on the dealership to make sure my belts are in good order while they're under there but I'll be sure to check them and the hoses. Other than that is it just draining and refilling . . . and what fluid do you recommend and how much will I need? The dealership told me I'll need new spark plugs at 30K . . . I'm trying to do what I can myself, but don't want to get in over my head either . . . what else needs to be done other than what I've mentioned in this post? (Diffs have been flushed, steering lubed regularly)
                        Joe,
                        You know I do most of the work on my Heep, but take a peice of advice. Let Jiffy Lube or someone like that do the engine and tranny service for you. It's the best $$ I've spent on that hole in the dirt. They have the right fluids and filters, they service the chassis, check the air pressure, all while you sit and listen to the Ipod... Yes, changing oil is beneath me... literally! Ha!
                        [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
                        [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
                        http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Schmo View Post
                          The dealership told me I'll need new spark plugs at 30K . . . I'm trying to do what I can myself, but don't want to get in over my head either . . .
                          Mine needed replacing about that time, a few minutes and a few $$ later, it ran like a champ.

                          1) Look at the sticker under your hood for the correct part number
                          2) Go to Shaver on your lunch break and buy the plugs
                          3) Drive home after work (make a pit stop at your local auto parts store for an air filter if you haven't changed it yet)
                          4) Take the old plugs out
                          5) Gap the new plugs (look at the sticker again for proper gap)
                          6) Put new plugs in
                          7) Have a cold one and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

                          Let me know if you need the tool to gap the plugs and I'll bring it to work.
                          [COLOR="Blue"]If you don't have the time to do it right, what makes you think you'll have the time to do it twice?[/COLOR]

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by rat patrol View Post
                            Joe,
                            Let Jiffy Lube or someone like that do the engine and tranny service for you. It's the best $$ I've spent on that hole in the dirt. They have the right fluids and filters, they service the chassis, check the air pressure, all while you sit and listen to the Ipod...
                            Obviously you've found a place where they have half a brain.

                            The grease monkeys by my house have no clue what fluids to use (if they even remember to put fluids back in), torque the crap out of everything they touch, barely know what a grease fitting looks like, and try to inflate my tires at 65 psi because they read it on the sidewall. :bonk: :bonk:
                            [COLOR="Blue"]If you don't have the time to do it right, what makes you think you'll have the time to do it twice?[/COLOR]

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              FRONT DIFF TAKES 2 QTS, AND MAKE SURE IT HAS LIMITED SLIP ADDITIVE. AS FOR THE TRANS CASE I BELIEVE IT IS ATF FLUID. i LIKE TO DO IT MYSELF AS I KNOW IT IS DONE RIGHT AND I AM NOT WONDERING ABOUT IT ON THE TRAIL,,,,,,,,,,,
                              06 UNL RUBI 4.5 LA,KM 2-35's/ 4.88 BEADLOCKS/SKIDS/WINCH
                              07 AT CHASER TRAILER

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I sure appreciate all the input! Couple of reasons I'm looking to do as much myself as possible.

                                #1 - Knowledge - I'm not a mechanic by any stretch and figure the more I do on my own, the more I'll learn my way around the Jeep and how it all works. Maybe then I won't have so many stupid questions!!!:hide:

                                #2 - Trust - Jiffy Lube and the likes pay what 10 - 12bucks an hour to the people doing the actual work? This means that for the most part the employees will be teenagers (not professionally trained mechanics) as you can't pay a mortgage or support a family in this town on that type of coin. Perhaps I'm just jaded from spending way too many years in HR and specifically Hiring, but my view of the "new" generation is not too positive. There are some good ones, don't get me wrong, but the masses seem to have no work ethic, no desire for excellence, and an overwhelming sense of apathy. Damn I sound old for only being 33!

                                #3 - Sense of Accomplishment - I sit in a 4x4 cell, I mean cubicle, 40 hours a week, on the phone, starring at a computer screen contemplating whether or not I should take my life rather than make the next call. I'm sure many of you work with your hands or do something that you love for a living would find this totally foreign, but I actually enjoy this stuff. Even the most simple of tasks like changing fluids or even washing the Jeep give me that much needed, but lacking, sense of accomplishment.
                                Last edited by Schmo; 06-24-08, 07:28 PM.
                                That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X