Routine Maintainence

[Schmo]

I was hoping to get some advice from you guys in order to keep my 06 Rubi in top condition as: a) I plan to continue to wheel the heck out of her. b) I have no desire to get rid of her and would rather customize her and see her evolve vs. trading her in. c) I'm not made of money and can't afford to take her to a shop for every little thing. and d) I sit in a cubicle all week and really enjoy getting my hands dirty and wrenching a bit (as long as I'm not in over my head). My 06 Rubi has about 22K miles. I got her with 12K and she had obviously never been wheeled, but the last 10K has been a different story!!!

So far, I've learned to lube the steering linkage and do that every month or two depending on how much I've been wheeling. I just flushed my rear diff and plan to do the front here in a couple of weeks. I figured I'd start doing this every 12K from here on out. I'm going to start changing the oil myself . . . is there a special wrench that you use to remove the filter easily? With 22K, is there anything else I should do or will need to do soon? I'm sure there's more that I can do to take good care of her and preventitive steps that I can take to minimize my chances of having to hike back to civilization!!!

I sure appreciate the help and advice!

[mrchips]

You can pick up a oil filter wrench @ the local auto parts store, change the eng oil every 3 months or 3K miles, and I usea good quality oil filter, KN-Part #2004 for the LJ. Key to long running motor in my book is to maintain and keep a good cooling system, flush cooling and ck for worn hoses that could fail. Also on my LJ I run Synthetic Royal Purple fluids in my Diffs and transmission, and transfer case. The lubrication properties of a synthetic are far superior, and help with cooling. Get yourself a creeper that you can slide under the jeep, and do visual inspections to ck for potential problems that may come up. Hope this helps,,,,,,,, Good wheeling

[Schmo]

You can pick up a oil filter wrench @ the local auto parts store, change the eng oil every 3 months or 3K miles, and I usea good quality oil filter, KN-Part #2004 for the LJ. Key to long running motor in my book is to maintain and keep a good cooling system, flush cooling and ck for worn hoses that could fail. Also on my LJ I run Synthetic Royal Purple fluids in my Diffs and transmission, and transfer case. The lubrication properties of a synthetic are far superior, and help with cooling. Get yourself a creeper that you can slide under the jeep, and do visual inspections to ck for potential problems that may come up. Hope this helps,,,,,,,, Good wheeling

Thanks Chips!

What does the oil filer wrench that works best for the Jeep look like? I've seen some that have more of a plier look and some that fit onto a socket wrench. As far as the flushing of the cooling system, transmission, and transfer case . . . how often should this be done?

[dirtman13]

The wrench isn’t a must. Oil filter should come off pretty easily. It should only be hand tight. I use the Fram Extra Guard, which has the SureGRIP on the end for easy removal.

Also don’t forget out greasing all your fitting. Steering linkages and u-joints. I like to use good synthetic waterproof grease. Everytime I hit the grease points I also grease the Hi-Lift.

[Schmo]

Also don’t forget out greasing all your fitting. Steering linkages and u-joints. I like to use good synthetic waterproof grease. Everytime I hit the grease points I also grease the Hi-Lift.

I'm pretty good about greasing the steering linkage, but could use some direction when it comes to the U-Joints. Also, do you use the same grease on your Hi-Lift and where do you grease it up?

[maddmike]

i don't think you can grease the stock u-joint but i could be wrong...

i'd also flush the power steering fluid once every 30k. that stuff gets pretty hot, especially while you're wheeling.

change the spark plugs every 60K and check the PCV system while you're at it to make sure it's functioning properly (instructions online or in haynes repair manual).

x2 on mrchips' advice to constantly crawl underneath and make sure everything is still in shape (after each trip i might add). sometimes you can whack things and really never know, for example i now have a nice dent in my oil pan, obviously from smashing into a rock, last year i apparently took a rock to the right front suspension, denting my metal shock dust cover and also knocking into my brake line at the caliper, causing a slight leak which required the hose end and fitting to be replaced. i've also replaced both rear lower control arms due to damage, and right now i'm in need of a front end check before i do any more wheeling.

[dirtman13]

I'm pretty good about greasing the steering linkage, but could use some direction when it comes to the U-Joints. Also, do you use the same grease on your Hi-Lift and where do you grease it up?

Not sure about the TJ u-joints. If yours are you’ll see a zurt fitting on it. My u-joints are greaseable. If yours are not at least inspect them when your under the Jeep inspecting everything else. As for the Hi-Lift, I pull it apart and clean the pins and springs then grease it all and reassemble. Very easy to do. Hi-Lift’s are dangerous and are even more so if not maintained properly.

[mrchips]

My 06 LJ u-Joints are sealed, not serviceable, as for servicing the transsfer case trans, and diffs etc, I would say if you do hard core wheeling and alot of it it does not hurt to change the fluids once a year,or depending on the amount of miles you do, but I would think every two years is good if you use a good synthetic fliud. Just my take!!!!!

[Schmo]

My 06 LJ u-Joints are sealed, not serviceable, as for servicing the transsfer case trans, and diffs etc, I would say if you do hard core wheeling and alot of it it does not hurt to change the fluids once a year,or depending on the amount of miles you do, but I would think every two years is good if you use a good synthetic fliud. Just my take!!!!!

I've got an 06 as well but a TJ . . . would my U-Joints also be sealed? As far as the transfer case and trans . . . sounds like it's about time for me to do these soon . . . is this a simple DIY type of job or a major undertaking?

[mrchips]

I am not sure on the stock TJ, as I have the Full Traction Suspension, and it has a big heavy belly pan to remove.

[maddmike]

not sure if you need to change the tranny fluid in a stickshift. transfer case is easier than the diffs, all you have to do is unscrew both bolts on the back side of the transfer case, let all the fluid drain out, put the bottom plug back in, and fill until it starts coming out of the top hole. put a drain pan underneath the little hole in the skid plate and viola! all the fluid will go into the drain pan.

but you'll need that nifty little fluid pumper for the transfer case or you're gonna get tranny fluid all over your arms, which is not the most pleasant thing you will ever experience.

[RAT]

You can pick up a oil filter wrench @ the local auto parts store, change the eng oil every 3 months or 3K miles, and I usea good quality oil filter, KN-Part #2004 for the LJ. Key to long running motor in my book is to maintain and keep a good cooling system, flush cooling and ck for worn hoses that could fail. Also on my LJ I run Synthetic Royal Purple fluids in my Diffs and transmission, and transfer case. The lubrication properties of a synthetic are far superior, and help with cooling. Get yourself a creeper that you can slide under the jeep, and do visual inspections to ck for potential problems that may come up. Hope this helps,,,,,,,, Good wheeling

Well said, and nothing to add...

[Materdaddy]

If you're new to maintenance, there's a rule of thumb that you should know... Always remove the FILL plug before removing the DRAIN plug. This is so you don't remove the drain plug, and realize later that the fill plug is siezed/stripped/etc. leaving you with an empty piece of hardware. This has never bitten me, but something that wasn't mentioned and should be kept in mind when working!

[Schmo]

not sure if you need to change the tranny fluid in a stickshift. transfer case is easier than the diffs, all you have to do is unscrew both bolts on the back side of the transfer case, let all the fluid drain out, put the bottom plug back in, and fill until it starts coming out of the top hole. put a drain pan underneath the little hole in the skid plate and viola! all the fluid will go into the drain pan.

but you'll need that nifty little fluid pumper for the transfer case or you're gonna get tranny fluid all over your arms, which is not the most pleasant thing you will ever experience.

I was wondering about that . . . does the manual have something different I'd need to maintain? I have one of those fluid pumps and it worked pretty good for my diff . . . I still a managed to make a mess. Seeing that they're pretty cheap, would it be a good idea to get a new one for the transfer case fluid or just flush out the one I've got with water or something to remove the diff fluid? Speaking of which, with 22K and 2yrs, am I due? Anybody know what type of fluid and how much it will take (Rubi w/ a 4:1)?

[maddmike]

I was wondering about that . . . does the manual have something different I'd need to maintain? I have one of those fluid pumps and it worked pretty good for my diff . . . I still a managed to make a mess. Seeing that they're pretty cheap, would it be a good idea to get a new one for the transfer case fluid or just flush out the one I've got with water or something to remove the diff fluid? Speaking of which, with 22K and 2yrs, am I due? Anybody know what type of fluid and how much it will take (Rubi w/ a 4:1)?

actually i was just poking through my owners manual last night and it says with a manual tranny you never need to change the fluid unless it gets water in it...but of course you should read yours just in case it says otherwise.

personally, i just spray some brake cleaner inside the pump and let it dry...should clean out all the old fluid residue, but it's up to you.

i'd change the TC fluid every year since you wheel the vehicle, i think owners manual says every 12K miles for schedule B usage (wheeling/towing/etc.). mine takes automatic tranny fluid (ATF +4 Mopar equivalent synthetic), but again check your owners manual for the type.