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Mr. Green's Surgery

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  • Mr. Green's Surgery

    Well, it's time.

    I'm tired of having to fix something every time I take Mr. Green out to play. The old suspension is exhausted and in much need of replacement. The steering, well, it's a new adventure every trip. So it is time to go big or stay home.

    I am starting this thread because I don't really have a lot of confidence in my own ability to figure this thing out. So, I thought that it would be in my best interest to throw things out you folks that have more knowledge and experience. Any guidance that you have along the way will be most welcome.

    The plan is to build a custom suspension and steering. I want to get a flat belly, 4 link rear, 3 link front, coil-overs, and a stretch. High-line fenders are under consideration as well.

    I have already purchased several things and I have set up the gears in the axles.

    I have a D60 for the front from a 1991 F350. I have cleaned it up and installed 5.38 gears and a Yukon Zip locker:


    I have a 14 Bolt from a 1974 that has been cleaned, geared to 5.38, and has an ARB locker installed:


    I have installed a 1 inch body lift to give myself some room to lift the drivetrain for a flat belly with the frame. I am still going to need a good bit more room to stuff the 4-speed atlas up about 4.5 inches from where it is now:


    I am expecting to have to cut the tub, so I have stripped out the seats, carpet, console, and e-brake:


    Next step will be to start removing the levers and anything that may be in the way of lifting the drivetrain. I will also need to strip away the old control arms, so I will probably pull the current axles out at the same time.

    I've done a bit of shopping already. Besides the axles and lockers, I have 14 inch King coilover shocks. I still need to buy springs. I thought that I would wait until I can weigh the rig with the new set up.

    I also have 5 - 40x13.50x17 Maxxis Trepadors and 5 Raceline beadlock wheels ready to go.

    It's gonna be a full time job after work and weekends for a while. Please chime in with any thoughts or advice.
    [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

    I have finally stopped drinking for good.
    Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
    [/COLOR]

  • #2
    And it begins. Don't forget I still have some King springs. Once your figure out you sprung weight let me know.
    Check out .

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    • #3
      I don't have any advice, I'm just jealous. Leaving us lowly 35'ers behind

      Some day I'll get there.
      "The Jeep...is a fitting instrument to transport the free people of a free nation with the respect to which we are entitled and the dignity that we deserve."

      Comment


      • #4
        Nice! Cant wait to see the progress!
        [COLOR="YellowGreen"]"You cant fit 2 fingers in my tailpipe"[/COLOR]

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        • #5
          One of the things you really want to look for is a way to get histeer arms on the front axle. Scott/ Dr dirty used Butch for machine work. He should be able to mill the top of the knuckles and machine steer arms out of 3/4 to 1" flatstock

          Comment


          • #6
            Other than that strip everything and just start, lot of things explain themselves as you go along.
            Kinda like my Hillbilly the lux. Had no idea where it was going to go when I started and yet it has it's first two shakedowns behind it

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by dirtman13 View Post
              And it begins. Don't forget I still have some King springs. Once your figure out you sprung weight let me know.
              I did forget! Thanks for the reminder. I have a little bit to go before I get to the point I guess.

              And Art, I hear ya on the "just starting" thing. I already had to rein my worries in when I started realizing that things that I was planning on reusing will probably not work after the changes. After a brief internal debate, I got it through my head to just make the changes that I want and I'll worry about the other details when I get to that point.

              Whew! I'm a nervous wreck and I haven't done anything that I can't undo yet. Guess I need to get to the point of no return so I can focus. :bonk::smile:
              [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

              I have finally stopped drinking for good.
              Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
              [/COLOR]

              Comment


              • #8
                Wanna borrow my cutting torch, will have everything on the ground on 30 mins or less lol

                Comment


                • #9
                  Looks fun Mike...make sure the end result allows u to fit it in the garage. I have 1" of clearance below the garage door header when the soft top is on. Should u need springs, I have a set of 14" at 200lbs for ur Shocks.

                  Also thanks fir finally getting rid of that old suspension...I can almost could on both hands the number of times we fixed ur front track bar!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    This looks like a great build. What are your plans for a fuel cell? Your wheel and tire set up is nice. Are the Treps stickies? Will it still be street legal? Looking fwd to seeing your progress. I love fab porn. Here's to your project. :beer:
                    It was like that when I got here.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by HookandLadder View Post
                      Looks fun Mike...make sure the end result allows u to fit it in the garage. I have 1" of clearance below the garage door header when the soft top is on. Should u need springs, I have a set of 14" at 200lbs for ur Shocks.

                      Also thanks fir finally getting rid of that old suspension...I can almost could on both hands the number of times we fixed ur front track bar!
                      The cure to fixing on trail breakage isn't to carry a welder and spare parts lol. So Mike is definitely on the right track now

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Tumbleweed13 View Post
                        This looks like a great build. What are your plans for a fuel cell? Your wheel and tire set up is nice. Are the Treps stickies? Will it still be street legal? Looking fwd to seeing your progress. I love fab porn. Here's to your project. :beer:
                        Thanks. I am planning to do a similar fuel cell as RAT did because I want this to still be my expedition vehicle so I will need a good sized tank. Street legal. To which, the Treps are radials and are not stickies.
                        [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

                        I have finally stopped drinking for good.
                        Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
                        [/COLOR]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Okay, First hiccup:

                          The drive train tops out about 3.25 inches lower than the frame. I have a 1 inch body lift on it now. If I raise it 3 more inches, the front T/C driveshaft yoke will be touching the pan under the drivers floor.

                          I'm thinking of going to a 2 inch body lift instead. That should help to clear the floor, and it might even prevent the floor under the driver's seat from having to be raised.

                          I've always heard that body lifts were a bad thing, should I go to a 2" lift?
                          [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

                          I have finally stopped drinking for good.
                          Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
                          [/COLOR]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Sawzall and 1" body lift. You should be able to modify the trans tunnel enough to get the front yoke to clear

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                            • #15
                              Just cut anything that's in the way. Also if need be center the new axle under the front just to see where the driveshaft is going to run.

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