lil bit of tinkering

[Mike]

Hey Art, Fred said that he gave you this part of the clutch with the engine:


If you don't need it, I might be interested in buying or trading you for it. Please let me know if you are not planning to use it.

[aw12345]

I hope it doesn't squeak like the last 4 squirrels did

Coilovers squeek and groan no mayyer what

[aw12345]

Hey Art, Fred said that he gave you this part of the clutch with the engine:


If you don't need it, I might be interested in buying or trading you for it. Please let me know if you are not planning to use it.

Hit me up at the end of this week, by then I'll know for sure if I need it or not.

This was a royal pain in the rear

oba (2) by aartjestaartje, on Flickr

Just tacked together, still needs finish welding and some gussets. Kinda want to run it first with the belt tight to make sure alignment is good

[aw12345]

Well since yesterday morning, made flywheel bolts, installed the pilot bearing installed clutch, made dowelpins to align trans and engine Installed transfercase. Driveshafts and belly skid. Then tightened motormounts, spliced the new connector for the cranksensor to the harness. Changed fitting on the powersteering pump, made a start on the tensioner part for the alternator/York bracket. Then started the ole gurl, runs good, got to chase a O2 sensor code, other than that all good. Got the lower radiator hose interference figured out.

So might actually have it drivable by Monday night Yeah

[aw12345]

Well grille and radiator are back in, both radiator hoses fit, elec fan clears, thermostat housing is drilled and tapped for a temp switch for the radiator fan. Just got to get a thermostat and gasket wire the switch into the fan relay and finish welding the alternator/york bracket and the ole gurl can go down the road.
As far as the one o2 sensor code I have a suspicion that there is one wire for the heater circuit missing in the harness on the body side, if so that would be a fairly easy fix

[vwtipeii]

awesome work in such a short amount of time Art!

[aw12345]

Thanks Skeeter

[aw12345]

Well Thermostat housing is back on with the temp switch, finished welding my alternator/york bracket, got to machine a spacer for one of the idler pulleys and that can go back together.

Then on to wiring the switch to control the cooling fan and wiring the York.

Also need to clean up and secure some wiring and hoses

Routing the airhose for the York, adding the crossbar for the coilover hoops and raising the powersteering reservoir and I got a driver. Engine skid I'll knock out next weekend and then it's wheelin ready again.

york (4) by aartjestaartje, on Flickr

york (3) by aartjestaartje, on Flickr

york (2) by aartjestaartje, on Flickr

york (1) by aartjestaartje, on Flickr

[aw12345]

Old Mexican low rider or?
https://youtu.be/BCXlL7LUDrU

Drove it around the block, lovin it. Still need the engine skid, airfilter for york and run wire from ac connector to york.
Also crossbar for front center limit strap, crossbar for coilover hoops and 1 O2 sensor.
Also need a speedo healer, speedo is way of and cuts the rpm's of when it hits about 100 mph in 4 th gear.
Sure is fun to romp on it, will see if it gets me to work in the morning.

[aw12345]

Was a royal pain in my rear, had to add a fuse, for batt power to heater relay that wasn't there. Find power supply of ASD relay feed add that to the coil side of the relay, run wire from relay to both O2 sensor heater positive sides, Then try to figure out which pcm connector is C3. With a bunch of head scratching that got resolved then had to add a pin to the C3 connector for the negative coil side of the heater relayu and see if the pcm would control the heater circuit. Add first try it dind't seem to had no continuity with the key on. After rechecking everything 3 times over decided to just try it and low and behold no continuity with the key on, but as soon as the engine gets cranked or runs it works, engine light went off as soon as I tried that. So happy camper! Had been bugging the hell out of me.


If one ever has to fight with this, this is correct for a 4 O2 sensor setup for 2003 year, 2004 is different and so is 2005, fun lil diddy isn't it?

O2 2003 by aartjestaartje, on Flickr

O2 2003 1 by aartjestaartje, on Flickr

[6spdYJ]

That sort of makes sense. It seems that the intent would be to limit higher current items (blower fan) to leave more amps on tap for the starter. But, if a fan motor is the make or break in starting you'd better be shopping for a new battery. It is a bit weird though...
Great that you got it figured out!

[aw12345]

That sort of makes sense. It seems that the intent would be to limit higher current items (blower fan) to leave more amps on tap for the starter. But, if a fan motor is the make or break in starting you'd better be shopping for a new battery. It is a bit weird though...
Great that you got it figured out!

Was talking about the heaters in the down stream O2 sensors LOL

[aw12345]

Other piece of the puzzle shoehorned in place, wasn't fun to weld in place, but it's there



WIN_20151201_13_21_30_Pro by aartjestaartje, on Flickr



On to some electrical and the engine skid

[6spdYJ]

Was talking about the heaters in the down stream O2 sensors LOL

Sorry, overexposure to degreed engineers...:doh

[aw12345]

Got the speedo healer installed, -55% signal modification and it looks like I am close to where the speedo needs to read