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It took a long time, but my 44 is finally in. Just want to share the recipie for anybody who likes Frankenstein. Start with a set of '74 Scout II 44's with 3.55's (matching my YJ) for $100. Ship them to San Bernardino on the back of a buddy's sand truck for free. Sell front 44 to a Scout guy who needs it for $40. So far $60. I debated finding stock drum setups, or going disc. Enter a set of '88 Samurai rotors for $26 each. Total $112. Had to find a set of rear calipers to fit the Sami rotors with e-brake. Accord EX would be perfect, but nobody wanted to total theirs at the time. Found a free listing on CL for '91 Miata parting out. Checked specs, with a little trimming, good. Total still $112. Cashed in some rewards points on ebay for a set of 3" studs from Summit. Total still $112. Wife bought me a set of adapters 1" thick and 5 on 5 1/2 to 5 on 4 1/2. for $90. Total $202. Master cylinder from ,78 Mercury Marquis, big bowls, big pistons for f/r disc for $26. Total $228. Used $25 gift certificate to 4wheel parts to get new u-bolts. Made brackets to mount calipers. Add tax and I figure roughly $260.
The master cylinder pattern was the same, I had to stand it off about 3/8" to clear the booster. The YJ push rod is adjustable, so I just turned it out to match. The original backing plates had to go, but I needed to keep the same spacing for the bearings. Enter the 4" angle grinder. I just trimmed everything off of the backing plates that wasn't a spacer. Now the rotors were almost tricky. They would not fit over the stock hub flanges. Again the grinder. I set the housing up on jackstands so the shafts could spin freely. I just laid the grinder on the outer edge and let it spin until the rotor fit over. I replaced the studs and sandwiched the rotor under the adapters. Why adapt? Why not stay with 5 on 5 1/2? First, economics. I have matching wheels and matching the rear to the front was a lot cheaper than matching the front to the rear AND getting new wheels. Second, and this is the cool part... The dana 35 - depending on who you ask is 60" to 60 3/4" WMS to WMS. The Scout 44 is 58" WMS to WMS. Add 1/4" thick rotors to each side and then 1" spacers to eack side. Now I have a 44 that is a perfect 60 1/2" WMS to WMS. The only caution is that I had to trim the long studs off as well as the lug nuts that hold them on to be sure they didn't interfere with the wheel seating. The only change for the new master cylinder was that the flare nuts needed to be swapped front and back. On the YJ, they're set up with 1/2" rear brakes, 7/16" front. The Mercury is set up with 1/2" front and 7/16" rear. With front and rear, I am referencing the bowl , not vehicle. The rest is straight forward. I put about 40 miles on it today, and I'm here to write about it.
What I did find, no surprise, I have to replace the wheel bearings and I get a low grumble when decelerating in gear. If I put in the clutch, it's quiet. Had to get it in in a hurry to smog and register, it'll hold for now. All I have to do is stay in a state of constant acceleration.
The master cylinder pattern was the same, I had to stand it off about 3/8" to clear the booster. The YJ push rod is adjustable, so I just turned it out to match. The original backing plates had to go, but I needed to keep the same spacing for the bearings. Enter the 4" angle grinder. I just trimmed everything off of the backing plates that wasn't a spacer. Now the rotors were almost tricky. They would not fit over the stock hub flanges. Again the grinder. I set the housing up on jackstands so the shafts could spin freely. I just laid the grinder on the outer edge and let it spin until the rotor fit over. I replaced the studs and sandwiched the rotor under the adapters. Why adapt? Why not stay with 5 on 5 1/2? First, economics. I have matching wheels and matching the rear to the front was a lot cheaper than matching the front to the rear AND getting new wheels. Second, and this is the cool part... The dana 35 - depending on who you ask is 60" to 60 3/4" WMS to WMS. The Scout 44 is 58" WMS to WMS. Add 1/4" thick rotors to each side and then 1" spacers to eack side. Now I have a 44 that is a perfect 60 1/2" WMS to WMS. The only caution is that I had to trim the long studs off as well as the lug nuts that hold them on to be sure they didn't interfere with the wheel seating. The only change for the new master cylinder was that the flare nuts needed to be swapped front and back. On the YJ, they're set up with 1/2" rear brakes, 7/16" front. The Mercury is set up with 1/2" front and 7/16" rear. With front and rear, I am referencing the bowl , not vehicle. The rest is straight forward. I put about 40 miles on it today, and I'm here to write about it.
What I did find, no surprise, I have to replace the wheel bearings and I get a low grumble when decelerating in gear. If I put in the clutch, it's quiet. Had to get it in in a hurry to smog and register, it'll hold for now. All I have to do is stay in a state of constant acceleration.
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