OK It all started when I got my new Quadratec catalog. While looking for a replacement bumper, the Four Real Steel XJ caught my eye. It was exactly what I was looking for in a third party bumper. However, there was no way I was going to pay $600, especially since I had a welder and some excess tubing laying around.
By looking at the picture, I determined the different tube sizes needed to make the bumper. After determining what I had on hand, I got the rest from the industrial supply store located in Barstow, CA.
Here is a recap of the materials required:
10ft 1 ½ tubing
4ft 2 tubing
4ft 5/8 tubing (you could use whatever you want ½ to Ύ)
4ft 6x3/16 flat stock (again whatever you want Ό thick)
First thing is remove the stock front bumper (easy) I then made some templates out of cardboard.
I cut a 2 hole with a hole saw. I wanted the main part of the bumper to go threw the brackets (which makes it stronger). I dont have a bender so I did the cut and weld method. The main part of the bumper is out of the 2 tube 3 long, ends cut strait at 90 degrees.
The corners and the rest of the frame are out of 1 ½ tube. I cut a piece about 15 long and cut the ends at 22 degrees, then another piece 8 long to complete the corner. After that I, butted the ends and tack welded for placement. I also added a piece of tubing to the other end of the corner that I inserted into the 2 tube for strength about 3 inches. Repeat for other corner. It helps if you have friend to help hold things in place and level (I used jackstands and pieces of wood to hold it in position for the tack welding.) The center bar of the bumper runs corner to corner.
For the upper half of the bumper the top hoop you could call it. The center section is 20 long and the ends cut at 30 degrees. The sides are 11 long and the ends cut/notched at 30deg. Centered between the mounting brackets.
angled out at 60deg. The bottom hoop is 30 long/wide and the sides are 12 long with a little piece cut at 22deg.each end to make 45deg. Corner with out being a right angle( tried to give it a more rounded look)
and is angled back/under 50deg.
Now for the corner/light guard made out of 5/8 tube. These I looked at the pic. Of the four real bumper and made them split the headlight and turn/marker light.( these you can mount where ever you want for the look you want to get) I measured down from the top bar of the upper hoop __3_inches angled it down splitting the two lights past the corner .bar length is 22_inches add another piece like 3 inches long at the angle you want. Repeat for the other side.(lots of measuring to get them the same)
the bottom corner supports are from the end of the corner to the bottom hoop corner like __18_ inches long.
I welded 6 tabs on the inside of the bottom hoop to mount the skid plate cut holes with hole saw for look and fog lights to shine threw. (Mine is made out a piece of thin aluminum I had laying around not actual skid plate) but build it how you want it. My wifes jeep is for light duty off road.
The finished product!
The measurements are not exact, they are for your reference. My welder is a Campbell Hausfeld flux core 80 amp, 110 volt. The welds arent the cleanest but they work. To clean up the welds, plan on doing A LOT of grinding with a hand grinder.
By looking at the picture, I determined the different tube sizes needed to make the bumper. After determining what I had on hand, I got the rest from the industrial supply store located in Barstow, CA.
Here is a recap of the materials required:
10ft 1 ½ tubing
4ft 2 tubing
4ft 5/8 tubing (you could use whatever you want ½ to Ύ)
4ft 6x3/16 flat stock (again whatever you want Ό thick)
First thing is remove the stock front bumper (easy) I then made some templates out of cardboard.
I cut a 2 hole with a hole saw. I wanted the main part of the bumper to go threw the brackets (which makes it stronger). I dont have a bender so I did the cut and weld method. The main part of the bumper is out of the 2 tube 3 long, ends cut strait at 90 degrees.
The corners and the rest of the frame are out of 1 ½ tube. I cut a piece about 15 long and cut the ends at 22 degrees, then another piece 8 long to complete the corner. After that I, butted the ends and tack welded for placement. I also added a piece of tubing to the other end of the corner that I inserted into the 2 tube for strength about 3 inches. Repeat for other corner. It helps if you have friend to help hold things in place and level (I used jackstands and pieces of wood to hold it in position for the tack welding.) The center bar of the bumper runs corner to corner.
For the upper half of the bumper the top hoop you could call it. The center section is 20 long and the ends cut at 30 degrees. The sides are 11 long and the ends cut/notched at 30deg. Centered between the mounting brackets.
angled out at 60deg. The bottom hoop is 30 long/wide and the sides are 12 long with a little piece cut at 22deg.each end to make 45deg. Corner with out being a right angle( tried to give it a more rounded look)
and is angled back/under 50deg.
Now for the corner/light guard made out of 5/8 tube. These I looked at the pic. Of the four real bumper and made them split the headlight and turn/marker light.( these you can mount where ever you want for the look you want to get) I measured down from the top bar of the upper hoop __3_inches angled it down splitting the two lights past the corner .bar length is 22_inches add another piece like 3 inches long at the angle you want. Repeat for the other side.(lots of measuring to get them the same)
the bottom corner supports are from the end of the corner to the bottom hoop corner like __18_ inches long.
I welded 6 tabs on the inside of the bottom hoop to mount the skid plate cut holes with hole saw for look and fog lights to shine threw. (Mine is made out a piece of thin aluminum I had laying around not actual skid plate) but build it how you want it. My wifes jeep is for light duty off road.
The finished product!
The measurements are not exact, they are for your reference. My welder is a Campbell Hausfeld flux core 80 amp, 110 volt. The welds arent the cleanest but they work. To clean up the welds, plan on doing A LOT of grinding with a hand grinder.
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