D300 4 to 1 gears

[rick]

Well, I'm finally getting around to going through my D300. I ordered the 4 to 1 kit from JB Conversions. Unfortunately, he is out of the rotation plates so I guess I'm going with an Advance Adapters or one of the cheesy deals off ebay that keep the original input shaft. Haven't decided yet. The AA kit is ~$200, and the cheesy deals are ~$70. Anyone have experience with the clocking rings that don't replace the input shaft? Any problems with spline engagement? The cheapos are basically a plate that bolts to the tcase with studs that thread into it to allow it to be bolted to the adapter, like this one: Cheap D300 clocking ring. Look for a write up on the gear install in the Feature section soon...

:shades:

[blkTJ]

Congrats Rick!!! (or should I say Chief...) Unfortunately I can be of no help on your question.

[rick]

Thanks man, like my new kewl Jeep? I'm thinkin about sellin the CJ...










JK

[sarah]

Thanks man, like my new kewl Jeep? I'm thinkin about sellin the CJ...










JK

Uh-huh. That'd be the day that pigs fly!

[blkTJ]

Thanks man, like my new kewl Jeep?

I do, looks like it would make a nice daily driver, but let's stay on topic here...

[rick]

Sonofa, you're absolutely right. Sorry. Back to the topic...

So with a T5 and 4:1 through 4.56s my crawl ratio will be 4.03 x 4 x 4.56 = 73.5. I think that's good enough for now. Maybe down the road the T5 will die again (after the stroker) and I can go with something a little beefier with a lower first gear. I'm thinking the new six speed manual might be nice

So really back to the topic... Does anyone know if a D300 has any oiling problems when clocked to a near horizontal position? I would think that you actually get more oil capacity with it rotated because of the location of the fill plug down on right side of the case. But it would be nice to hear it from someone who has done it.

[D4x4Fish]

I have not yet done this myself but, I've read that if you use one of the plates 3/8" or thicker you needed to install a speedy sleeve on the input shaft of the dana300. This keeps the gear oils where they belong. Some of the people I have talk to on this, said that clocking the dana on a daily driver is no problem. I dont have the part# right now but Napa sells the sleeve $30 to $40 what I remember. I'll get back with the part#

[D4x4Fish]

Speedy sleeve part# Chicago Rawhide Speedi Sleeve p/n 99193 price is $33.99

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...7&prmenbr=5806

[rick]

Thanks man, good info. I looked at the speedi sleeve thingy at Napa today. It's just a sleeve that goes over the tcase input shaft to ensure you have good seal engagement. You have to leave it sticking out a bit off the end of the shaft as near as I can tell in order to make up for the 3/8" you lose to the clocking ring. I measured everything out on mine and from where the seal sits now the 3/8" extension puts the seal riding almost 1/8" off the end of the input shaft. Hence the need for the sleeve.

While this sounds like an acceptable solution to the seal problem, I'm not ready to part with 3/8" of spline engagement. I'm not comfortable with losing 3/8" considering my old T-5 output shaft had twisted splines on it with a 258 pushing it. I don't think losing spline engagement is a good idea with a stroker and 4:1 gears. Call me picky, but I think I'm going with the AA kit. Considering the sleeve is $30 (cheaper at Napa store than online for some reason) and the clocking ring is ~$85 shipped, I think I'll spend the other $80 and keep them splines engaged....

:shades:
rick

[blkTJ]

check here for more info.

[GoinCommando]

D300 oiling

Rick,
The guys at Novak Adapters told me when I bought my adapter that 10 degrees on the t/case was as flat as you want to go. I'm about 12 degrees but of course I haven't driven my Jeep yet.

[rick]

Thanks guys. I ordered the AA kit. The adapter on the T-5 is incredibly complex in that they cut all kinds of extra metal out of there, pretty much everywhere except where the holes are at now. I don't think there is a way to drill this adapter without reinforcing it. I think the AA kit will work for what I want to do. The plus side is, I hopefully won't need to make my rear driveshaft longer even though the tcase will be almost 2" higher at the rear because the clocking ring adds 3/4". A longer front shaft is in the works, with a longer slip yoke to accomodate the shackle reversal...

:shades:
rick

[Davisrats]

Novak D300

I have a D300 Novak kit that I am happy with. I installed a AX15 at the same time and it is working great.

[rick]

Well, it's together... It's hanging on the tranny by a couple of studs temporarily until I can take the sledgehammer to the floor in the area of the shifter (thought the neighbors would get pissed last night at 11...) In order to put it totally flat you would need some serious body mashing to clear the top of the tcase and the shifter, so I have decided to put the bottom of the case just about even with the frame rails and hang the rear most crossmember tubing below the frame. The front of the crossmember skid will be even with the frame, but the rear will hang down 1 1/2". This will be a vast improvement over the stock 3 - 5" drop. Pics soon...