Stroking it!

[NAILER341]

Originally posted by cbremer
.020 undersize main bearings were delivered this week, and i'll be (re) installing the crank over the weekend.

got the head back from the machine shop too i suppose i'll give the ports a once-over with a Dremel too.

the FSM recommends .002" clearance, but .001-.0025" is acceptable. i was getting >.003" on all the mains (some as high as .004"). this is really all that I was waiting on... now I can really get crackin' on assembly



:hat:

p.s.: I just ordered this beauty:



it's on backorder, but I'm pretty patient :yawn:

BLING-BLING!
i hope all that bearing stuff works out for you... i'm no engine expert, but it seems a lot of measurements are off here.. and you KNOW about them, and are proceding. i hope it all goes well for you.

[blkTJ]

is that the MoPar header??? if so I hope you got a helluva deal on it. nice.

[cbremer]

good news... the bearings worked out. all mains are within spec, so I started assembly today best I can guess is, I bought a 'remanufactured' crankshaft, which means they turned all the journals down .010", and tossed in a set of undersize bearings to match. problem was, i had the block machined, which included boring the mains, making them a bit big/loose. they must have removed .010", since it all worked out.

pics to follow....

brian, that is indeed the mopar performance/Mike Leach tri-Y header. more power! (insert Tim Allen grunt here) I got it from Summit racing for less than I found it anywhere else... but I have to wait a while no hurry, since I have a ways to go on the engine itself.

:hat:

[Dukes69]

I hate to mention this now, but better late then never . . . I've built a couple engines, and when I do I always wash the block with soapy water and clean it real good, after is has been machined. I also run a tap in all the different holes, especially the mains and head bolt holes. This ensures proper torque. Easy and cheap insurance. The last thing you want is metal shavings in a new engine or a crank that breaks in half due to impropper torque

have fun!

[cbremer]

crap on you... good thing i did all that stuff (i did my homework ) 14 head bolts and 14 main bolts- that took a while

1 turn in, 2 turns out, use cutting oil, all the way to the bottom of the hole, clean the hole with brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air, clean & oil the tap for the next hole, repeat. 28 times. ugh.



:hat:

[Dukes69]

very good

[cbremer]

finally more pics. now you can see why i'm know for my punctuality


pretty... (my preciousssss......)






yeah.. um.. that's about it for now. i hope to get the pistons & rods installed and button up the bottom end this weekend- maybe even start on the top end. :yay:


:hat:

[Dukes69]

very nice chuck! You're doing a damn fine job. I cant wait to get your reaction when you stick it in there.

[NAILER341]

lookin good, chuck! keep a tally sheet so i know what this whole mess is costing . i am interested, but unsure what i am willing to spend on it. great looking progress there

[blkTJ]

Originally posted by Dukes69
I cant wait to get your reaction when you stick it in there.

that's what she said... :yay:

[JeepJunkie]

Originally posted by blkTJ
that's what she said... :yay:

HAHAHAHAHA....

[rick]

Is that a stock distributor? Looks nice - make sure you lube the snot out of everything - moly paste on the rod bolts also to ensure even torque. I like Childs and Albert for the top end, it's kinda like sticky 40 weight.

[cbremer]

yup, rebuilt stock. a rebuild was cheaper than replacing the electronic points thingie, so that's the way I went. also stock OEM cap/rotor, new OEM harmonic dampener.

[redneckxj]

how much more power do you get out of the stroked 4.0?

[cbremer]

quick update- I fuXored one of the pistons while pressing the pin in so a replacement is on order (accurate was low on stock and didn't want to split a set, so mike ordered a single extra just for me :yay: ). also been working or port matching the intake manifold to the head and opening up the exhaust ports a bit. also smoothing the combustion chambers a little. slow going, but it's going

:hat:

p.s.: rick, about using lube on the bolts, how much less should I torque them to? i know the dry torque is different than wet torque... but how much? i.e.: 20% less?

thanks!