Looking into a locker or trac lok for D35

[Guest]

I found a used lock right #2310 for $200 and new at Rusty's for $310. I heard lockers on the D35 can destroy them as the D35 isn't strong? So, the trac lok is better? Can someone explain?

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=LOC

Thanks,
Ron

[inVERt'D]

A locker makes it possible for one axle shaft to carry all the torque that comes through the differential, so as you can imagine, it also makes it easier to break axles in some circumstances. However, it also makes it easier to predict what your wheels will do; you're less like to get that spin-and-grab and wheel-hop effects that are so effective at breaking parts.

Dana 35s are weak and prone to breakage. Also, the c-clip types can be especially difficult to repair on the trail when the axle breaks leaving a stub of splines in your locker. If you're really needing a locker, then you're probably putting your Dana 35 where it ought not to be.

Personally, I'd look for a deal on a better axle--Dana 44, Ford 8.8, Ford 9" (lots of those at junkyards!). I think if you got a limited slip, you'd end up wishing you had a locker pretty quickly.

If I were considering a lunchbox-style locker, Aussie or Lock-Right would be the only ones, and I would choose an Aussie over a Lock-Right. Bill, the president of Torque Masters/ Aussie Locker used to work at Richmond Gear, and he can explain how the Aussie is better designed and is made of better material than the Lock-Right. That's right, I'm an Aussie Locker fan-boi!

[Guest]

I have a 1993 Wrangler but a 1989 4:10 axle with non c-slip.

Just wanting a little better "grip" per say. Thats why I was thinking the LS.

[Roger]

I think you need to wheel more & do an in depth study on every type of locker & limited slip available. Write yourself a term paper on the subject, There's so much to learn and just asking for opinions isn't enough! Although you'll have no trouble getting opinions around here

You should go on runs for at leaset 6 months and really learn your Jeep and what it will & will not do. Lockers are serious business, a big expense, & expensive to repair. Make sure that whatever you decide is the right decision.

[Guest]

I think you need to wheel more & do an in depth study on every type of locker & limited slip available. Write yourself a term paper on the subject, There's so much to learn and just asking for opinions isn't enough! Although you'll have no trouble getting opinions around here

You should go on runs for at leaset 6 months and really learn your Jeep and what it will & will not do. Lockers are serious business, a big expense, & expensive to repair. Make sure that whatever you decide is the right decision.

I have just taken a few college classes. No term papers! I hear you. I have done some re-search like usual. Thought I would get some opinions now. What are you running Roger?

[inVERt'D]

If you can get a Trac-Lok for free, pay $60 or so for a rebuild/ clutch kit, and install it yourself (or otherwise almost free), I'd say it might be worth the trouble and expense. Otherwise, you're gonna pay $50-$60 (don't pay more!) for a used Trac-Lok, plus $60 for the rebuild kit, which puts you at a $120.00 plus oil, plus your precious Saturday. Or you could pay about $260 shipped for an Aussie Locker, put it in your open diff a lot easier, and have a much better result.

Roger, my opinions are as good as hard facts, if not better, IMHO. II

[Guest]

If you can get a Trac-Lok for free, pay $60 or so for a rebuild/ clutch kit, and install it yourself (or otherwise almost free), I'd say it might be worth the trouble and expense. Otherwise, you're gonna pay $50-$60 (don't pay more!) for a used Trac-Lok, plus $60 for the rebuild kit, which puts you at a $120.00 plus oil, plus your precious Saturday. Or you could pay about $260 shipped for an Aussie Locker, put it in your open diff a lot easier, and have a much better result.

Roger, my opinions are as good as hard facts, if not better, IMHO. II

Thanks David. Where did you get a aussie locker for $260? I would probably get a new trac-lok for $200 online if I went that route. But, with a D35 I am a little worried about a locker. I am looking to just get a little extra tracking when I am out. Not ino the hard stuff some are here

[inVERt'D]

$239.99 + <$22 shipping = about $262.00 shipped.


I believe this is your part #:
Aussie Locker XD-13527

http://www.aussielocker.com/make.php.../d822/10/.html

Do a quick search on Model 35; it's indicated as in-stock.

If you can discipline yourself not to put your axle under a lot of load and strain, this item will make you much happier than the Trac-Lok will. The thing is, the performance you'll get will tempt you to do things you wouldn't try now or with an LSD. When you upgrade, you can recoupe a good part of your investment through eBay, etc. If you're gonna polish a turd, don't use turd to do it.

SOMEONE PLEASE STOP THIS MADMAN FROM SPENDING $200 ON TRASH-LOK FOR HIS DANA 35!!!

[Guest]

30 spline better? Although, I didn't see it.

Add these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...Q5fAccessories

[Guest]

Price is close to do a ford 8.8 though?

[inVERt'D]

Price is close to do a ford 8.8 though?

Yeah, I'd rather invest the $250 in a D44 or an 8.8. You can put titanium axles in the D35--it's still a D35. Figure putting a truss on it, but it still won't be as good as the others because you won't get as much gear tooth engagement for a given axle ratio.

[USMC 0369]

[COLOR="Sienna"]FWIW...

I run the D35 (w/ c-clip axles) in my 1990 YJ. Here's what I learned about it. Stock - it sucks. If you get a LSD or trac-loc for it, you're still going to snap spider gears, twist or snap shafts. You'll need to carry extra axle shafts with you whenever you wheel (sounds like you're planning some serious business) and probably extra differential parts also (spider gears, pins, etc.) I got VERY lucky and picked up a Superior Super 35 package at a steal of a price. It runs strong as I want thus far, but I still worry about the axle giving out on me some day as I get more stupid with it. When it finally does break, and it will, I'll be going a Ford Axle route... 8.8 or 9.

But as Roger said, wheel it a little more. I wheeled mine with a LSD for a while and it taught me about picking lines, and being ginger with the skinny pedal. I don't know your level of driving skill, so perhaps you're ready for a step up. If so, then I'd suggest, as others have, to opt for the lunch box locker (lock-rite or aussie) unless you're planning to overhaul the axles, weld the tubes, maybe even a truss to make the D35 strong enough for some serious abuse. Good luck on whatever choice you make, but in the back of your mind, I'd keep thinking about replacing the D35.[/COLOR]

[Guest]

[COLOR="Sienna"]FWIW...

I run the D35 (w/ c-clip axles) in my 1990 YJ. Here's what I learned about it. Stock - it sucks. If you get a LSD or trac-loc for it, you're still going to snap spider gears, twist or snap shafts. You'll need to carry extra axle shafts with you whenever you wheel (sounds like you're planning some serious business) and probably extra differential parts also (spider gears, pins, etc.) I got VERY lucky and picked up a Superior Super 35 package at a steal of a price. It runs strong as I want thus far, but I still worry about the axle giving out on me some day as I get more stupid with it. When it finally does break, and it will, I'll be going a Ford Axle route... 8.8 or 9.

But as Roger said, wheel it a little more. I wheeled mine with a LSD for a while and it taught me about picking lines, and being ginger with the skinny pedal. I don't know your level of driving skill, so perhaps you're ready for a step up. If so, then I'd suggest, as others have, to opt for the lunch box locker (lock-rite or aussie) unless you're planning to overhaul the axles, weld the tubes, maybe even a truss to make the D35 strong enough for some serious abuse. Good luck on whatever choice you make, but in the back of your mind, I'd keep thinking about replacing the D35.[/COLOR]

Great reply! Thanks. Looking at a dana 44 or ford 8.8

[Davisrats]

find a good place to get cheap or free replacement parts and just drive it.
Plan the upgrade and find the parts before you need them..

[aw12345]

Ron Cleghorn is close to your home. Wheel it as it is
till you can run that trail comfortably once you do that and want to get more carried away, then go ahead and upgrade axles lockers and what not. Till then it is just water under the bridge.
Just go out and have fun with your Jeep as it is and see how far it will actually take you.