i am getting ready to install gears on my 98 jeep tj ....i would pay a shop to do it but rims and tires turned my pockets inside out ....i have been looking for detailed instuction on instilation and spacing for the front and back if any on can tell me what tools i need and any advise would be great. thanks
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
ringand pionon change "lil help "
Collapse
Forum Thread First Post
Collapse
X
-
Well the tool list might get a bit expensive also
You need preferably an axle housing spreader it can be done without but its best to use one of those.
A good bearing puller and a bearing splitter ( a tool you use with the puller to get the bearings of)
A beam style inch/LBS torque wrench
A click style torque wrench that goes up to 150 ft/ lbs. A dial indicator with a magnetic base
Then install kits that come with all the bearings/ seals and shims needed to set the gears, for Dana 30 and 35 the kits need to come with crush sleeves also
That is about the minimum you need
-
holes = cowbell
Comment
-
They have these nice disks that come with bearing and race installer tools or make your own grind down some old bearings weld some flat stock and a round bar to it and you are good to go. Kinda silly to stick the axle housing in a press to get the pinion bearing races in place don't you think
For the large pinion bearing a piece of pipe that slides over the pinion shaft works very nice
Comment
-
Yeah, putting the axle in a press to install pinion races does sound silly. Actually what I'm thinking of are the side carrier bearings. I'll have to get or make a tool like you described for the races, but I'm kinda shy about hammering the bearings onto the carrier. I'm not actually messing with the pinion gear this time around, but Mr Underjeep will be.holes = cowbell
Comment
-
There are a couple ways around using a press to seat the final bearings. For the pinion for example...place the pinion in the freezer and the inner pinion bearing on a grill, toaster oven, oven etc. The pinion will need to be in there for a good bit to ensure it's actually cold enough to make it contract. The bearing will not take long so get it good and hot but don't cook it long enough where it starts changing colors.
The end purpose here is to freeze the pinion causing it to contract (shrink) and heat the bearing causing it to expand. Allowing you to literally drop the bearing over the pinion and allowing it to seat w/out having to drive it all the way down.
At times, I've had the bearing "bounce" back a little sitting it a few thousands off being fully seated. Use a pipe/tube that fits over the pinion shaft but still rides on the inner side of the bearing. NOT on the actual cage. I have used a brass punch w/ success as well.
Option 2 (primarily used on the carrier bearings) is to use the stock bearings that you removed, cut the cage off the bearings, flip it over and use that to drive the new bearings on once you're done with your setup. Just don't try to drive it down at once. Use a BFH and tap it down slowly.
Comment
-
And I'd use a brass punch to knock the new races in place if you don't have the install tool AW was talking about.
Comment
-
There was a decent episode of xtreme 4x4 that showed (most) of an install.
I think you can order the episode on DVD, or maybe catch a re-run. Here's a link to the specific episode ('69 International Scout - Part II): http://www.powerblocktv.com/site3/in...09&ep_sea=0901If we aren't supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat?
http://jeep.matandtiff.com/
Truth is treason in the empire of lies. -Ron Paul
Comment
-
Originally posted by MoonWorks View PostAnd I'd use a brass punch to knock the new races in place if you don't have the install tool AW was talking about.
I'll check out that video, Matterdaddy.holes = cowbell
Comment
Comment