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ringand pionon change "lil help "

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  • ringand pionon change "lil help "

    i am getting ready to install gears on my 98 jeep tj ....i would pay a shop to do it but rims and tires turned my pockets inside out ....i have been looking for detailed instuction on instilation and spacing for the front and back if any on can tell me what tools i need and any advise would be great. thanks
    Last edited by 98thunderjeep; 07-09-09, 02:13 AM. Reason: miss spell

  • #2
    Well the tool list might get a bit expensive also
    You need preferably an axle housing spreader it can be done without but its best to use one of those.
    A good bearing puller and a bearing splitter ( a tool you use with the puller to get the bearings of)
    A beam style inch/LBS torque wrench
    A click style torque wrench that goes up to 150 ft/ lbs. A dial indicator with a magnetic base
    Then install kits that come with all the bearings/ seals and shims needed to set the gears, for Dana 30 and 35 the kits need to come with crush sleeves also
    That is about the minimum you need

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    • #3
      Art, I've been getting ready to swap out my Trac-Lok for my Aussie Locker w/ open carrier. I noticed you didn't mention a hydraulic press?
      holes = cowbell

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      • #4
        Here's an article from Pirate:

        http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
        holes = cowbell

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        • #5
          Labor up here is about $300. I maybe be able to find you a little cheaper if that helps.

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          • #6
            Bearing puller and a splitter plate works fine.
            Press osn't really needed. The article on Pirate is actually pretty good

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            • #7
              How would you recommend putting the new bearings on without a press?
              holes = cowbell

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              • #8
                They have these nice disks that come with bearing and race installer tools or make your own grind down some old bearings weld some flat stock and a round bar to it and you are good to go. Kinda silly to stick the axle housing in a press to get the pinion bearing races in place don't you think
                For the large pinion bearing a piece of pipe that slides over the pinion shaft works very nice

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                • #9
                  Yeah, putting the axle in a press to install pinion races does sound silly. Actually what I'm thinking of are the side carrier bearings. I'll have to get or make a tool like you described for the races, but I'm kinda shy about hammering the bearings onto the carrier. I'm not actually messing with the pinion gear this time around, but Mr Underjeep will be.
                  holes = cowbell

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                  • #10
                    There are a couple ways around using a press to seat the final bearings. For the pinion for example...place the pinion in the freezer and the inner pinion bearing on a grill, toaster oven, oven etc. The pinion will need to be in there for a good bit to ensure it's actually cold enough to make it contract. The bearing will not take long so get it good and hot but don't cook it long enough where it starts changing colors.

                    The end purpose here is to freeze the pinion causing it to contract (shrink) and heat the bearing causing it to expand. Allowing you to literally drop the bearing over the pinion and allowing it to seat w/out having to drive it all the way down.

                    At times, I've had the bearing "bounce" back a little sitting it a few thousands off being fully seated. Use a pipe/tube that fits over the pinion shaft but still rides on the inner side of the bearing. NOT on the actual cage. I have used a brass punch w/ success as well.

                    Option 2 (primarily used on the carrier bearings) is to use the stock bearings that you removed, cut the cage off the bearings, flip it over and use that to drive the new bearings on once you're done with your setup. Just don't try to drive it down at once. Use a BFH and tap it down slowly.
                    [COLOR=red]www.MoonWorksOffRoad.com[/COLOR]
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                    • #11
                      And I'd use a brass punch to knock the new races in place if you don't have the install tool AW was talking about.
                      [COLOR=red]www.MoonWorksOffRoad.com[/COLOR]
                      [COLOR=red]www.myspace.com/moonworksoffroad[/COLOR]

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                      • #12
                        There was a decent episode of xtreme 4x4 that showed (most) of an install.

                        I think you can order the episode on DVD, or maybe catch a re-run. Here's a link to the specific episode ('69 International Scout - Part II): http://www.powerblocktv.com/site3/in...09&ep_sea=0901
                        If we aren't supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat?

                        http://jeep.matandtiff.com/

                        Truth is treason in the empire of lies. -Ron Paul

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                        • #13
                          [QUOTE=Jeep4cern;137494]Labor up here is about $300. I maybe be able to find you a little cheaper if that helps.[/Q

                          that would be great if you could

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                          • #14
                            i ended up going to the pick apart to see how hard it was to just disassemble the front end and it was rediculous to be honest if it was a time sensitive i would have to do it butmy jeep still rolls so i just save up but thankks

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by MoonWorks View Post
                              And I'd use a brass punch to knock the new races in place if you don't have the install tool AW was talking about.
                              Thanks for the tips. A brass punch was one thing I meant to buy and completely spaced.

                              I'll check out that video, Matterdaddy.
                              holes = cowbell

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