cracked exhaust 4.0

[Kodiak Spirit]

I used the same nuts and bolts, never heard of them stretching enough to be an issue, don't forget the anti-seize

good to hear the burritos made it ok :beer:

[Lumpy Grits]

Don't know about 4.0 exh. bolt streching but I would coat the threads with copper anti-seize(NOT silver)so IF you need to remove them later, you can.
Respectfully,
LG

[RAT]

LOL cooked burritos this weekend on the manifold. They were fine. The local muffler shop says they will weld the sucker up for me for $60. Sounds good to me. Should I replace the header bolts after I pull it off? I think I remember hearing something about them stretching and needing to be replaced every time you pull them off?

If you want to drive to Cerritos I'll weld it for a big fat nothing!

[Mitch]

:drool:All that talk of "Manifold Burritos" did the trick again!

[OU812]

If you want to drive to Cerritos I'll weld it for a big fat nothing!

Thanks If I was closer I would take you up on that. But I did the math an I will spend $45 in fuel to do it.

[aw12345]

45 bucks is less than 60 and the man really knows how to weld

[Materdaddy]

Don't know about 4.0 exh. bolt streching but I would coat the threads with copper anti-seize(NOT silver)so IF you need to remove them later, you can.
Respectfully,
LG

I've used silver each time and had no problems getting them back off... what's wrong with silver anti-seize?

[OU812]

Does anyone have any opinions on header wraps? I figured since I had my header out and somewhat clean I would wrap it. But I searched the WWW and found some cautionary tales about header wrap making your header more prone to cracking. Anyone have any experience with this?

[ECHO]

i know banks power makes a header too i was going go that route when the time came.

banks isnt the answer. Ive had to replace a cracked banks header and am ordering another today to replace the new craked header.

[2blk2drs]

I've used silver each time and had no problems getting them back off... what's wrong with silver anti-seize?

Silver = Nickel based
Copper = Copper based

The copper is a softer metal, so it acts like a high pressure lube on the threads. You will want to use a mechanical locking device on fasteners that had previosly been lock tited ( lock washer, beleville washer, nylock nut, top lock nut, so on and so forth.

I use the copper stuff becuase i get it for free, we buy it in 5 gallon buckets for drilling with air. And yes you can make a hell of a mess with 5 gallons of that stuff!