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  • Trail Report: UT & AZ: What I did last summer

    A Sentimental Journey – Part 1 of 5

    In August 1959, my Boy Scout Troop visited Bryce, Zion and the Grand Canyon National Parks. While en route, we stopped near Page, AZ and saw the Glen Canyon Dam under construction. As the fiftieth anniversary of that youthful trip approached, I thought about returning for another visit, but I couldn’t find anyone to accompany me until at the last moment, a group from JeepExpeditions.org posted a run to the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon scheduled to take place EXACTLY during the 50th anniversary of my previous visit. I signed up for the run and planned brief return visits to Bryce and Zion on the way to join the group in Escalante, UT. The visits to Bryce and Zion would be on paved roads; we wouldn’t get on dirt until we joined the group in Escalante.

    Geology

    I have a better understanding and appreciation for the magnificent scenery of southwestern Utah after reading a National Park Service brochure about the geology of the area:

    “If you had visited this area sixty million years ago…you would have found yourself treading water in a body of water the size of Lake Erie, surrounded by hills and mountains…
    Starting about 60 million years ago, streams flowing from the surrounding highlands washed sand, silt and mud into the basin. Algae living in the lake incorporated calcium carbonate (CaCO2) into their body structures. When they died, their remains left thick deposits of carbonate mud on the lake bottom. Freshwater snails fed in the muddy ooze.
    Periodically, the lake would dry up, leaving a level plain where soils formed, plants grew and insects such as ants and wasps burrowed into the dry sediments. Streams ran across the basin, leaving lens-shaped sand and gravel deposits. Then the lake would fill with water and deposition would begin again, adding more layers of sediment.
    Deposition continued for 20 to 25 million years, gradually filling up the basin as the surrounding highlands wore down. Trace amounts of iron derived from the source rocks combined with oxygen and water, “rusting” the sediments into warm red, orange, and yellow hues. Oxidized manganese stained some sediments purple. These sediments eventually hardened, becoming the siltstones, sandstones, and limestones of the Claron Formation…
    Rain falls frequently during the…summer. As it falls, the water combines with carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, forming a weak acid. As this acidic water seeps into the vertical joints, it reacts with the calcium carbonate limestone, dissolving it and progressively widening the cracks into fissures.
    When the temperature falls below freezing, water expands, shattering the rock. Roots work their way into the cracks, forcing their edges farther apart. The cracks in turn widen into fissures and then into gullies. Soon, only thin walls, or fins, are left standing under capstones made of harder rock. These capstones act like umbrellas, protecting the fins from the elements and slowing the process of erosion.
    Eventually, erosion wears through the sides of the fins leaving isolated pillars or “hoodoos.” Undercutting of cliffs and fins forms shallow caves and arches.”


    Zion National Park

    I planned a brief, one-day visit to Zion National Park. In 1959, the Boy Scouts camped in a National Park Service campground and drove up Zion Canyon. However, private vehicles are no longer allowed in Zion Canyon during the peak visitor months (April through October). Free shuttle buses run up the canyon from the Visitor Center at the south entrance of the park, but pets are not allowed on the shuttle buses! Since I wanted to bring Ziggy (my Minpin) with me, I had to find alternate transportation. I solved the problem by staying at a pet-friendly motel in Cedar City, UT and making arrangements to rent a bicycle with a child carrier from Zion Cycles in Springdale, UT, just outside the park entrance. It’s about a nine-mile bike ride from Zion Cycles to the end of the canyon (650 foot elevation gain), and I figured that if I got tired, it was downhill back to the bike shop. Here’s a picture of my four-wheel rig (one-wheel drive):



    The view from the campground at the south end of Zion Canyon (only seven more miles to go!):



    Five miles to go (almost halfway to the end of the canyon):



    Zion Canyon Lodge (only three more miles to go!). It was getting warm; the temperature that day was in the 90s. I refilled my water bottles at a drinking fountain:



    Two miles to go! (my legs are beginning to hurt):



    Weeping Rock and Cable Mountain from Big Bend in Zion Canyon; one mile to go!



    Great White Throne from Big Bend in Zion Canyon:



    This is the only picture that I took at the end of the pavement in Zion Canyon; you can hike farther up the canyon, but bicycles and pets are not allowed, so I refilled my water bottles and then Ziggy and I turned around and headed back down the canyon:



    The return trip was an easy downhill ride, but I must admit that my out-of-shape legs were sore by the time I returned to the bike shop:





    (to be continued)
    If you don't like the way I drive, stay out of the bushes!
    KI6MLU

  • #2
    Cedar Breaks National Monument – Part 2 of 5

    The next day, Ziggy and I checked out of the motel in Cedar City, UT. We planned to pass through Cedar Breaks National Monument and Bryce Canyon National Park enroute to meet the group in Escalante, UT. It took us about an hour to drive to Cedar Breaks National Monument. The rim of the natural amphitheater is at about 10,000 feet elevation:





    The view toward Cedar City, UT from Cedar Breaks National Monument:



    From the rim of Cedar Breaks National Monument, I was able to reach the Navajo Mountain repeater near Page, AZ (over 100 miles away), and I made contact with Sam White (KE7QXI) who was leading the group from Jeep Expeditions.org. He was on the Hole-in-the-Rock trail near Lake Powell. We confirmed our plans to meet that evening in Escalante, UT.

    Red Canyon

    After leaving Cedar Breaks National Monument, we drove through Panguitch, UT and Red Canyon enroute to Bryce Canyon National Park:







    Bryce Canyon

    In 1959, the Boy Scouts spent two full days exploring Bryce Canyon National Park, but this time, I only had a few hours to revisit the park. Unlike Zion Canyon, Bryce Canyon allows private vehicles in the park, so I didn’t have to make any special arrangements to take Ziggy with me. Pets are not allowed at the scenic overlooks or on the trails, but the weather was cool enough that I could leave Ziggy in my Jeep while I dashed to the rim of the canyon to snap a few photos.

    Sunrise Point, Bryce Canyon:



    Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon:





    Navajo Mountain is barely visible through the haze in this photo taken from Inspiration Point, Bryce Canyon. An interpretive sign says that the mountain is 82 miles away from this point. I was able to contact Sam via the repeater on Navajo Mountain using my Yaesu FT-60 hand held radio.



    Deer along the park road in Bryce Canyon National Park:



    Bryce Point, Bryce Canyon National Park:





    Paria View, Bryce Canyon National Park:



    The view from Rainbow Point, Bryce Canyon National Park:



    We left Bryce Canyon in late afternoon and arrived in Escalante, UT in time to setup camp before dark.

    (to be continued)
    Last edited by Russ Chung; 09-23-09, 01:16 PM. Reason: typo
    If you don't like the way I drive, stay out of the bushes!
    KI6MLU

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    • #3
      Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument – Part 3 of 5

      The Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument contains about 3,000 square miles of land in southern Utah. It is bounded by Bryce Canyon National Park and the Dixie National Forest on the west, the Dixie National Forest on the North, Capitol Reef National Park and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area on the east, and the Utah-Arizona border on the south. President Bill Clinton designated the area as a National Monument in 1996. When Ziggy and I joined the group from JeepExpeditions.org in Escalante, UT, they had already explored the southeastern part of the Monument. Our plan was to explore the northeastern part of the Monument for one day, then break camp, head south through the monument along Cottonwood Road and establish a new base in Kanab, UT for two nights before heading to the north rim of the Grand Canyon.

      Burr Trail Road

      Burr Trail is a paved county road traveling east from Boulder, UT. The road turns to dirt at the Capitol Reef National Park boundary. To get to Boulder, we drove on Utah highway 12 from Escalante (about 30 miles), stopping often to take in the scenery. The Escalante River runs across the bottom of this photo:



      Calf Creek Canyon near Boulder, UT:



      Burr Trail Road:



      Entering Capitol Reef National Park:









      We continued north through Capitol Reef National Park, rejoined Utah Hwy 12 and returned to Escalante. The total distance of the loop was about 180 miles, of which about 40 miles was on easy graded dirt roads.

      Willis Creek

      The next day, we broke camp, and headed toward Kanab, UT. Our first stop was the slot canyon in Willis Creek just south of Cannonville, UT. The slot canyon is a short (about ¼ mile) hike from the road:







      Our plan was to continue south on Cottonwood Road, but our plans changed when one of the members of our group had a flat:



      Although he had a spare, we needed to get a replacement tire because we planned on spending another week of wheeling in the area before heading home. Since there was no cell phone coverage, we returned to Cannonville in search of a pay phone. We located the correct size tire at a store in St. George, UT. The problem was that the store was 150 miles from Cannonville, and we had three hours to get there before it closed for the weekend! We drove through a dust storm and thunderstorm and got there 15 minutes before it closed. The next day, equipped with a new spare tire, we headed to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park near Kanab, UT. We aired down, mounted our dune flags and played in the dunes for several hours:







      (to be continued)
      If you don't like the way I drive, stay out of the bushes!
      KI6MLU

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      • #4
        North Rim of the Grand Canyon – Part 4 of 5

        Upon arrival at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, we set up our base camp at the National Park Service North Rim Campground then headed over to the Visitor Center at Bright Angel Point where we caught a late afternoon glimpse of the canyon:



        Although there are several hiking trails in Grand Canyon National Park, there is only one 4x4 trail (it runs from the vicinity of the North Rim Village to Point Sublime, a distance of about 18 miles). But there are many 4x4 trails in the adjoining Kaibab National Forest, some of which lead to points with views of the Grand Canyon. Arizona Highway 67 runs from Jacob Lake, AZ to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Our plan was to explore the area west of AZ-67 for the first three days, then explore the area east of AZ-67 for two days, returning home via Navajo Bridge at Marble Canyon. Our first run started from the DeMotte Forest Service Campground which is just north of the National Park boundary. We followed an easy two-track dirt road to Swamp Point, which is about 15 miles west of DeMotte.



        Upon arrival at Swamp Point we got a panoramic view of the Grand Canyon:



        We headed back into the Kaibab National Forest and continued west, emerging from the forest to this view of the Canyon near Indian Hollow:



        We returned to camp, and I took a few more late afternoon pictures of the Grand Canyon near Bright Angel Point:







        The next day, we continued exploring the scenic canyon vistas west of AZ-67. Our destination was Jumpup Point. We started from Jacob Lake, and headed approximately 30 miles southwest to this view of Kanab Canyon, a side canyon which leads to the Grand Canyon:





        Our next stop was Horse Spring Point, about five miles further north:





        On our third day at the North Rim, we headed to Point Sublime. The weather was dry, so the trail was easy. During wet weather, the trail gets muddy. Camping is allowed at Point Sublime, but there are no facilities and you must get a camping permit at the Ranger Station. Since we were only planning a day trip, we didn’t need a permit.



        The Grand Canyon from Point Sublime:





        It only took a couple of hours to get to Point Sublime, so we continued exploring the area to the west. We headed north to the Kaibab National Forest and then west to Fire Point. Fire Point is about ten miles northwest of Point Sublime, but by forest road it’s about twenty miles. I was surprised by the amount of lush vegetation at the point; we ate lunch in the shade of some pine trees and then returned to camp.





        (to be continued)
        If you don't like the way I drive, stay out of the bushes!
        KI6MLU

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        • #5
          Grand Canyon, House Rock Valley and Marble Canyon – Part 5 of 5

          After spending three days exploring the area to the west of Arizona Hightway 67 (and realizing that we only saw a fraction of the interesting things to see there), we began to visit the scenic viewpoints to the east of AZ-67.

          The Grand Canyon from Point Imperial:





          Cape Royal:





          We headed northeast into the Kaibab National Forest to Marble Overlook for a view of the House Rock Valley and the Colorado River as it courses through Marble Canyon before it enters Grand Canyon National Park. We planned to visit the House Rock Valley the following day, so this gave us an idea of what to expect:





          We celebrated our last night at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon with a dinner in the Grand Canyon Lodge:



          The next morning we broke camp, and headed back through Jacob Lake, AZ enroute to Marble Canyon. From Jacob Lake, we headed east on US Highway 89A, and stopped for this scenic view of the Vermilion Cliffs:



          We left US-89A and headed south across the House Rock Valley on a graded dirt road:



          We continued across the House Rock Valley to Buck Farm Point to view the Colorado River in Marble Canyon:





          We visited historic Lee’s Ferry on the Colorado River. This is the starting point for many river raft trips:



          We had a BBQ to celebrate the last night of our trip:



          The next morning, we crossed the Colorado River via the historic Navajo Bridge:



          The rest of the group returned to the Phoenix area by way of Flagstaff, AZ, while I proceeded to Page, AZ because I wanted to see the Glen Canyon dam. Although I had flown over the area several times while serving in the Army, I had not been back to the Glen Canyon dam since my Boy Scout trip in 1959. At the time, the dam was under construction (it was completed in 1963).





          After snapping a few pictures of the dam, Ziggy and I returned home via St. George, UT and I-15.

          (The End)
          If you don't like the way I drive, stay out of the bushes!
          KI6MLU

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          • #6
            [COLOR="Blue"]Awesome trip Russ, thanks for taking us along.
            Makes me want to get back over there again.

            mk[/COLOR]

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            • #7
              Thanks Russ I have been to most all these places hiked, most of it and it's nice to revisit them. Very ni9ce report and pics

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              • #8
                Great trip report and fabulous pics Russ! Thanks for sharing.
                Over 2500 hours donated to the San Bernardino National Forest. Life member of CA4WD, CORVA & BRC. Tread Lightly Trainer. Reforestation Supervisor. CASSP

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                • #9
                  VERY nice Russ!!

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                  • #10
                    Dang Russ! You really logged some miles there on that trip. All those areas are spectacular. It's funny you posted this today; I just got back from UT and stopped through Kolob Canyon and the East side of Zion on my way home. Your pics are great! Thanks for sharing.
                    [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
                    [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
                    http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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                    • #11
                      " I know what you did last summer " great trip and photos..aslways look forward to your adventures. Now get out and wheel with us!

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                      • #12
                        Fantabulos pictures. Envious.
                        "Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both." -- Ben Franklin

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                        • #13
                          As always Russ, you post great write-ups. I really enjoyed this one. I did chuckle at the photo of your dog in the bike trailer. The look on his face said "yea, I'm spoiled, so?"
                          SBCO Fire Dept. CERT volunteer
                          MJR moderator
                          MJR Adopt-a-Trail Crew member
                          Jeep Patrol Leader
                          Reforestation Supervisor
                          Licensed Ham - n6ujm
                          Eagle Scout

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                          • #14
                            Great pictures! Just awsome :thumbs_up

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for the pics Russ,brought back some great memories, My parents were long time residents of Torrey Ut.(Capitol Reef). As a kid I use to work for Dixie and Fishlake NF. (Man I miss that place).

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