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Death Valley Park - Spring 2008

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  • Death Valley Park - Spring 2008

    Death Valley Area – Trail Report April 4-6, 2008

    DAY ONE - Friday
    Sharon and I met Dirtman13 (Chuck) and Dr. Dirty (Scott) in the Wildrose campground of Death Valley National Park on Friday afternoon. They went up that morning and had explored the Charcoal Kilns and the old Superintendent’s house before we arrived. I’m sure that they will posts pics of their earlier adventures soon.

    After we arrived, we set up camp quickly and then headed out to Aguereberry Point to catch some sunset pics. We stopped at Aguereberry Camp and Mine on the way:



    We then climbed up to Aguereberry Point just before sunset for some great views and pics:




    On the way back, we explored the Eureka Mine in the twilight:



    DAY TWO – Saturday
    We woke up early and headed to Panamint Springs for gas. Ouch! Over $5 a gallon! A Land Rover club was staging at the gas station for a variety of runs for the day. We were headed for the Hunter Mountain / Racetrack Loop and none of their runs were going our way. I thought of it as lucky for us only because it was a really big group, probably 35 or 40 rigs.

    We made a change to the plans as we passed the Darwin Falls road. We wanted to take a look at the falls before heading on. My map and Chuck’s GPS showed Darwin Falls as being close to the China Garden Spring, so we headed up the hill to the turn for the spring:



    After much exploring (& finding some great stuff!) and then consulting Roger Mitchell book, we discovered that the falls is closer to the lower side of the canyon. We had spent a lot of time looking, so just headed toward Saline Valley Road and the Hunter Mountain Loop. On the way we caught a brief glimpse of Mt. Whitney still covered in snow:


    Making up time ‘Baja” style, we soon found ourselves in the Joshua Tree grove of Lee Flat. These are the biggest Joshuas that I have ever seen:


    On the way up Hunter Mtn, we came across some free range cattle:


    And SNOW in the shaded areas:


    We took a side road to see the very well preserved Hunter Cabin. It is over a hundred years old:


    Afterward, we went down a winding shelf road for quite a distance to Goldbelt Springs:


    At the camp at Goldbelt Springs, all of the buildings have collapsed. We found several trucks and cars and several things in bloom:


    From there, we traveled past the Quackenbush Mine before returning to the main trail through Ulida Flat and Hidden Valley. Before leaving Hidden Valley, we visited the “best mine ever”, the Lost Burro Mine. This place is really cool. Buildings are fairly well preserved:


    The ore workings are still standing:


    And the mine is amazing. The mountain is pretty much held up on stilts!


    Leaving the mine, we passed through the Lost Burro Gap to find the Teakettle Junction. Next time we are bringing a Tea Kettle!:


    The Racetrack Playa was next. I was truly looking forward to this. Last year we found very few rock tracks because of the dry year. Since the valley has had some rain this year, I was hoping for some good tracks – I was not disappointed:



    To complete the loop, we crawled down the Lippencott Grade:


    This very narrow shelf road drops you into the Saline Valley. The valley had lots of things in bloom, including some spectacular Prickly Pears:

    We added stones to the cairn at the intersection with Saline Valley Road. Look how green the valley is:


    We climbed up and out of the valley through Grapevine Canyon and then traveled back to the highway the same way that we came. Even though we were moving as fast as we could, we still didn’t get back to camp until after 8pm. I had wanted to go visit FishPOET in his camp in Panamint Valley, but we were hungry and exhausted after the long day. Sorry Doug!

    DAY THREE – Sunday
    Sunday morning, we woke up and broke camp. Today we wanted to see the Barker Ranch where Charles Manson was arrested. First we went to Ballarat to see the ghost town since it was on the way:


    On the way to Goler Wash we saw some wild burros getting their breakfast:


    On our way up the wash we stopped at the Newman Mine Cabin. It is excellent shape:


    We continued up the wash to the park boundary and then to the Barker Ranch:


    After meeting several other Jeepers and exploring the ranch, Chuck and Scott made their way back down the wash so that they could get home at a reasonable hour. Sharon and I explored a little more before leaving, but that is in Trail Report #2.

    It was a fantastic weekend! Thanks to Chuck and Scott for putting up with my LONG trail plans. I think that we all had a great time though. There is SOOO much to see in the area that we are talking about another trip in the fall.

    Thanks again guys for making this such a good trip!
    Last edited by Mike; 04-07-08, 08:49 PM. Reason: Changed a photo.
    [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

    I have finally stopped drinking for good.
    Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
    [/COLOR]

  • #2
    Trail Report - Part Two

    Sunday - Continued

    After Dirtman13 and Dr. Dirty headed back down Goler Wash to go home, Sharon and I turned uphill to climb over the Mengel Pass and to check out the Adopt-A-Cabins on the Butte Valley side of the pass:


    Yellow flowers blanketed much of the area on the way up to the pass:


    At the top we stopped to add a stone to the grave of Carl Mengel:


    Just past the crest, we reached the first real rock crawling that we had seen all weekend. Since we were headed downhill, we were still able to negotiate the rock garden in 2WD:


    Once over the pass, we went to the furthest Adopt-A-Cabin first. The Geologist’s Cabin was occupied, so we just checked out the outside:


    From the cabin, there is an excellent view of the Striped Butte:


    We then stopped at the empty Mengel Cabin. It has running water:


    The last Cabin that we toured was the Russell Camp. It is the largest of the three and has a shower that can have sun-warmed water sent to it:


    On the way back up to Mengel Pass, I just couldn’t get Mr. Green through the Rock Garden in 2WD. So for the first time since we arrived in the area, I engaged the transfer case. Since I was in 4WD anyway, at the top of the pass, we took this side trail to a high viewpoint:



    Back into 2WD, we headed back down the Goler Wash. I hadn’t noticed on the way up that there were wild grapevines along a portion of the trail:


    We took a quick excursion up to Lotus Mine. Look carefully. The trail climbs this mountain on a narrow shelf roads with lots of switch backs. Apparently, the mine is at the top:


    We made it almost to the top but had to stop due to a small “pebble” in the trail.


    Although we had made it to this point in 2WD, it was too steep and WAY too far down to try to squeeze by:


    Negotiating a turnaround on the narrow shelf was a bit hairy, so I used 4LO to ensure traction and a slow decent back down the mountain:


    The trip back down Goler Wash to the valley floor was just as pleasant as the drive up:


    Once down, we took the Fish Canyon Escape Trail (also called the Slate Range trail) to get back to Hwy 178 just above Trona. This is the historic path that he last of the Jayhawkers used to escape Death Valley on their journey west. The Charles Wells book lists this as an Easy trail and it definitely starts out that way. It is a nice gentle trail along the side of the dry lake bed:


    But when you turn onto BLM road P168, it quickly becomes a faint trail through sharp black rocks that definitely require a high clearance vehicle. Stone cairns and little metal ET (Escape Trail) signs mark the path:


    Just past the field of black rocks, the trail gets gravelly and a starts uphill more steeply. At the base of the first incline is a marker erected to commemorate the trail:


    After this point, the trail starts climbing the ridges of the hill, some of which are quite steep and covered in loose rock. The climb that you can see furthest away in this picture was the second one to require me to use 4WD to get up it.


    I have to disagree with Mr. Wells on this one. If the trail REQUIRES 4WD to travel, it probably shouldn’t be listed as Easy. This may not fit everyone’s definition, but I can assure you that a new stock 4x4 Trailblazer will not make it through this trail easily (if at all).

    We took a side trail down Isham Canyon for a little way just to see what some of the obstacles looked like. Isham Cyn is supposed to be the most extreme trail in the area so I wanted to take a peek for a run at another time. The Jeep was getting low on gas at this point, so when we didn’t reach the first major obstacle with in the first mile, I decided to turn back. Regardless, the trail called for 4WD for pretty much most of that mile.

    Along the way we found this cool weed. I’m fairly sure that it is extraterrestrial in origin. I think that it uses the leaves at the base for feet to move around and the bulge is from a lizard that it just ate!:


    After gassing up in Trona, we went to the Trona Pinnacles:


    These Pinnacles are left over remains of springs that were once on the bottom of a lake bed. It was crazy-windy while we were there. Sharon was hanging on for dear life:

    (Okay, maybe I just need shock-therapy again, but doesn’t the one that she is holding on to look vaguely like a wolf’s head howling at the moon?)

    Regardless of the wind, it is a really cool place to visit:


    We also stopped by the painted Dinosaurs/Dragons/Alligators/Sharks/Lizard-Thingy-ma-bobs that are on the way to Ridgecrest. Apparently, they had missed a feeding:



    It was a wonderful trip! It was a great time with friends in a place that was a true visual feast. I am looking forward to the next visit to the area.

    All of the uploaded pics can be found at this link:
    http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q...008/?start=200

    Viewing note:
    I normally try to keep my Photobucket in chronological order, but I am still learning how the bulk uploader works. To see them in order, look at pages 11 - 15 first (a few late added pics are at the end of pg 15), pages 6-10 are next, and pages 1-5 are the end of the trip.
    Last edited by Mike; 04-07-08, 09:05 PM. Reason: Changed a photo.
    [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

    I have finally stopped drinking for good.
    Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
    [/COLOR]

    Comment


    • #3
      Great trip report and pictures. It will save me a whole bunch of typing when I post mine later.
      Over 2500 hours donated to the San Bernardino National Forest. Life member of CA4WD, CORVA & BRC. Tread Lightly Trainer. Reforestation Supervisor. CASSP

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      • #4
        pics look great mike looks like you had fun after we left thanks again for a great weekend
        [COLOR="YellowGreen"]"You cant fit 2 fingers in my tailpipe"[/COLOR]

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        • #5
          nice pics thanks for sharing. you know its not nice to show such a awesome time, seeing how i spent all weekend working on all of the stuff i broke on the last trip. jk lol.

          i want this jeep

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          • #6
            Mike,

            Thanks for sharing the cool pictures. Looks like you guys had a fun trip.

            Comment


            • #7
              Wow, great pics! I love the rocks with mouths drawn on them hehehehehe too funny!
              :gun:'99 TJ Sport:gun:

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              • #8
                Thanks for sharing your trip. I am going to make my dear bride sit at my computer and read your post!
                SBCO Fire Dept. CERT volunteer
                MJR moderator
                MJR Adopt-a-Trail Crew member
                Jeep Patrol Leader
                Reforestation Supervisor
                Licensed Ham - n6ujm
                Eagle Scout

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Roger View Post
                  Thanks for sharing your trip. I am going to make my dear bride sit at my computer and read your post!
                  Ha! I hope that she is inspired to drag you out there before it gets too hot... which is is rapidly approaching!
                  [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

                  I have finally stopped drinking for good.
                  Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
                  [/COLOR]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hello again

                    Hi Mike,

                    We ran in to you and your group at Barker Ranch. I have the black YJ and my friend has the blue and white CJ. Nice pic's, after we left Barker Ranch we went back to Ballarat and ran Jackpot Canyon. I agree with you, We spent a week there last year and four days this year and still haven't seen it all.

                    Enjoy,

                    Mike

                    http://scrap4wheelers.spaces.live.com/
                    OHV12V SBNFA OHV Volunteer

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                    • #11
                      Waaaay cool. Thanks for sharing! Sorry to miss sooo much jeepn.
                      Just waay to much going on in my life right now.
                      Have to live my jeepn life through you, right now.
                      "If you have significant difficulty here, dont go any further....it only gets worse".
                      (Charles Wells)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the great report! Looks like you had an awesome trip.

                        Here's a bit of trivia about your "alien" plant:

                        (from Wikipedia)
                        The Desert Trumpet (Eriogonum inflatum) is a perennial plant of the family Polygonaceae. The plant possesses very small yellow or pink flowers and an inflated stem just below branching segments. Eriogonum: from the Greek erion, "wool", and gonu, "joint or knee", in reference to the hairy or woolly joints of some of the species of the genus, but not particularly inflatum.

                        The swelling of the stems was assumed to have been influenced by the presence of gall insects, most notably of the genus Onyerus. The female wasp produces a small hole on the inflated portion of the Desert Trumpet, packs the cavity with larvae and lays her eggs upon them, providing a food source, and a protected environment for the offspring. Irritation caused by this process was said to have enlarged the cavity over time. Recently, research performed by the world authority on the genus Eriogonum, Dr. J. L. Reveal of the University of Maryland, College Park, revealed the swollen stem of E. inflatum is due to high concentrations of carbon dioxide in the solid stem and seems to be related to gas regulation. Some insects utilize the swollem stem as a larder, but the inflation is not caused by the larval feeding of gall insects.


                        It is known that some Native American tribes that once inhabited the surrounding areas of the Las Vegas Valley (most commonly Paiute) would remove the stalk of E. inflatum at the base, and then cut the inflated bulb in half, producing a makeshift pipe. A mixture of Indian Tobacco and Mistletoe would be smoked primarily for leisure purposes.
                        Help me fight Cancer: Visit tinyurl.com/3as4rn and support me in raising money for the American Cancer Society. Thanks!

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                        • #13
                          Great report Mike. I'll just post some pics. Since you covered everything else. I had a great time.
                          dr.dirty (Scott) and went up early Thursday. After we set up camp we headed over to the Charcoal Kilns.

                          While at the kilns we chatted with one of the park rangers and she told us about the park and directed us to the old park superintendent’s cabin. This was a cool place with some great views.




                          Aguereberry Point

                          Darwin Falls

                          Free range cattle



                          Teakettle Junction

                          Racetrack

                          Charles “Tex” Watson’s truck

                          Wild Ass

                          Barker Ranch

                          Most of my photos can be seen here.
                          http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Valley%202008/
                          http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ey%202008%202/
                          http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ey%202008%203/
                          http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ey%202008%204/
                          Check out .

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                          • #14
                            I've had the pleasure of seeing alot of what you've written about (but not all of it!) and agree that there is still lot's to see and its a GREAT area to spend a few days!



                            Don't let that rock at the Playground fool ya... I don't think it's moved since last November.





                            But it looks like the smaller one dissappeared!



                            The Lotus mine isn't quite as cool as many others in the area. It was last worked in the 80's according to service stamps on some of the machinery there.





                            But it's fairly neat to see and there are some good views from the peak.


                            Thanks for the write-up and now you've added some things to my list of things to see next time I'm out there.


                            Ride'on,

                            ~CRASH!~

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                            • #15
                              Great report

                              Looks like a good time was had. Excellent photos and write up. Makes me want to run down there and check it out.

                              Scott

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