Not sure where to put this?

[USMC 0369]

Okay, I've screwed something up real good.

I'm not too cocky to admit that I've got ZERO idea what I'm doing with anything electrical. Today, in trying to fix the problem with my Mallory Distributor... I fried the new ballast I put in [or at least it was smoking] and my alternator started smoking too!

My battery was dead, so I tried to hook up the YJ to it for a jump and my jumper cables arc'd like a 4th of July sparkler! The Ford was able to hook up the jumpers and not arc [which to me means I've screwed up the wiring in the YJ too!] Ugh... these setbacks suck!

I really need some help with this, if anyone knows electrical work and is willing to give some advice or even a hand I'll cook ya dinner and serve ya beer. Hell I'll even bring it to your place for a look-see if I can.

thanks for anything at all...
~nick

[Russ Chung]

Today, in trying to fix the problem with my Mallory Distributor... I fried the new ballast I put in [or at least it was smoking] and my alternator started smoking too!

My battery was dead, so I tried to hook up the YJ to it for a jump and my jumper cables arc'd like a 4th of July sparkler! The Ford was able to hook up the jumpers and not arc. Ugh... these setbacks suck!

~nick

Nick, it sounds like an interesting challenge to get your rig running. I can't get over to your place for at least a couple of weeks. Meanwhile, what happened after you jumped it with the Ford? Did it start? Did it run? Did it fry anything else?

[USMC 0369]

Thanks Russ!

I'm going on vacation next week anyway. So the wrenching and sparking will have to wait until August sometime. Maybe September.

Well, after re-reading my post, I guess it is a bit foggy. After putting in the new ballast, I tried to start it with no results. Pre-loaded the carb with some fuel and still nothing. Since my Jeep has been sitting a while, it was a bit sluggish turning over the engine so I decided that maybe there wasn't enough juice. I then tried to hook up the YJ to it and the jumpers arc'd really well. Figuring that perhaps the YJ has electrical issues of it's own (which it does), I opt'd to hook up the Es-cap-ay and jump it with that. The cables didn't arc, but the ballast started to smoke and the alternator did also. I disconnected everything without trying to start it again, and this is where we sit.

Now... some more background. I did some research and found I need a 1.4 to 3 ohm ballast. Which I was assured by the counter jockeys at Auto Zone that I had purchased. Come to find out, it's a 1.3 ohm ballast. I'm going to NAPA tomorrow morning to purchase a new [correct] ballast. I'm thinking that I need to trace all my wires before installing it though, because I dont want to fry another one. They're only $9 but frying 2 of them is now $18 and so on... Plus, I don't want to [further] fry my alternator in the process. I'm thinking of taking it in for testing anyway. That was more smoke than I should have allowed to come out of it before "Disconnect it dummy!" came to mind.

[Mtbikbob]

you have what we call a 'dead short'. It means you have direct contact to ground. Most likely in the ballast which cooked.
Here's one way to check everything quickly in smooth move.
Disconnect battery on the positive side. Close all doors, turn off radio or anything that would draw electrical power from the battery. Place a 12 volt test light between the battery pole and the positive cable. With the new ballast in place and all electrical devices turn off, the light will not glow. If it does, you still have a direct short and need to investigate further.
Hope this helps.
BobO
Escondido

[Russ Chung]

Ballast Resistor

Nick, the purpose of the ballast resistor is to allow the full battery voltage to reach your distributor when you are starting up, then after your engine starts, the resistor cuts down the voltage to the distributor so that the points last longer. The ballast resistor should be wired between your ignition switch and the distributor's power lead; it should not be grounded. If the resistance is too low (1.3 ohms instead of 3 ohms), it would let more current flow to the distributor, it would get hotter, and it would cause your points to wear out quicker. If the ballast resistor was shorted to ground instead of connecting to your distributor, it would heat up REAL FAST.

Also, for many years, Ford was the only manufacturer who connected the positive battery terminal to ground; all other manufacturers connected the negative battery terminal to ground (...I'm showing my age here). I haven't worked on a Ford for a long time, so I don't know if they still do that, but be sure to double check the polarity when you hook up the jumper cables from a Ford to your Jeep.

[Dukes69]

Russ, I dont think ford has had a positive ground system for over 50 years.

If you are still running points on that pig, toss that garbage out and get electronic. I dont think you'd still have the points in there, but if you do, I'm sorry.

[USMC 0369]

Thank you all.

I've come to the conclusion that I've a "dead short" somewhere. Havent found it yet, but could the alternator cause it? I'm going to take it in to have it tested just be sure that a.) I didn't fry it, and b.) it's not the problem.

Not running positive ground system Russ. But my dad did tell me about those, systems and how they'd really screw with mechanics. Never seen one myself, a lot like the sasquatch I guess.

No points, this is still the Malloy Unilite dizzy I'm screwing around with. I did get a 1.8 ohm ballast, but I'm going to use bob's suggestion to ensure I don't fry another one. The alternator probably needs replacement anyway, so I'll start there. Also, the ballast that I originally had was completely sealed, all the way around. This ballast is open on the back and I can see the coil with it's ceramic core. My question is... water? Is water going to screw this thing up?

Thanks for the help guys... I really, REALLY want to wheel this rig some day in the not-so-distant future. Of course Chris will tell me to donate it for scrap metal when he sees it.

[Russ Chung]

Not running positive ground system Russ. But my dad did tell me about those, systems and how they'd really screw with mechanics. Never seen one myself, a lot like the sasquatch I guess.

Boy, do I feel old all of a sudden.....When I got my first car, it had breaker points, ballast resistors, and when we jumped started it, we had to make sure that we got the polarity right. I used to be able to fill up the gas tank for about five dollars. I think I may regret ever bringing up the subject of battery polarity.

If you have a breakerless distributor, I wonder what the purpose of the ballast resistor is??

[USMC 0369]

The ballast is supposed to be there to regulate how much juice is reaching the Unilite module. Apparently they burn out rather easily with too much juice. I've burnt one out already with a rookie mistake, the modules cost about $110 so I'm trying to avoid that again.

Every time my friends mention how awesome thier MSD setup is, I wanna puke.