Concrete work... Anyone?

[RAT]

I need a slab poured in my back yard for a spa. Approximately 15'x20'. Needs to be reinforced for 4000 lb + spa. Anyone here do concrete work and want to quote me? Or barter Jeep/fab work?

Thanks,

[nwoods]

Needs to be reinforced for 4000 lb + spa.

Wow, how many women you brining into that tub of your Kurt?

[Mike]

Wow, how many women you brining into that tub of your Kurt?

Apparently ALL of them. :devil:

[Mitch]

Kurt,

If I was still in California I'd would have hooked you up! Good luck with the project.

[RAT]

Wow, how many women you brining into that tub of your Kurt?

It all depends on breast size. The bigger they are the fewer that fit... But it's all good Do the math---
8.34 Lbs per gallon X 490= 4087 (rounded up). That doesn't include the girls!

[RAT]

Kurt,

If I was still in California I'd would have hooked you up! Good luck with the project.

Trust me I thought about that! Seems there is no one on MJR that does concrete. Oh well. Guess I'll add to my Jack of all Trades bucket.

[Jason]

I got a friend that does concrete. Let me talk to him about it and I'll PM you. He has done some for me and it's top notch.

[RAT]

I got a friend that does concrete. Let me talk to him about it and I'll PM you. He has done some for me and it's top notch.

Thank Jason. You can give him my contact info too. He can call me if wants.

[Roger]

Just as long as it will support toothless Tammy... :hide:

[RAT]

Just as long as it will support toothless Tammy... :hide:

I can introduce you if you'd like

[curtis]

For a job that small, you need someone local. You should look for some local guy that can pour your job and another one in the same day. Watch for guys doing work in your neighborhood. I have some steel stakes and trowels you can use.

[Jason]

We can also do a MJR concrete party. Ive done enough to help scew it up.

[inVERt'D]

Kurt, I used to estimate concrete for commercial and public works projects. Forming doesn't scare me, but I wouldn't be confident enough to practice finishing on your dime. Curtis is right, that's a "side-job" sized job. A concrete truck holds about 10 cubic yards of concrete. Anything less than that you'll end up paying for one way or another, unless, as Curtis suggested, you can split a load with another job.

If you go with a 4" slab you can figure about 4 cubic yards of concrete, including waste. If you go 6" (what I'd suggest), figure you'll need about 6 cubic yards. That's figuring 5% waste. That doesn't include thickened edges. Otherwise, keep the blowout under control and you'll be fine.

I don't know if you'd need a permit or otherwise what the codes or soil conditions are where you live, so I'm gonna take a general stab at a generic slab that should work fine for you. With a job that size small is going to cost you more than quality, so don't skimp.

Here's a starting point for you at least.

Concrete:
6" slab, 560-C-3250 or similar mix (common, finishes well, cracks less, and good all-around). Integral color will probably cost you $40-$60/ cy, depending on color and the vendor. Davis colors are generally less expensive than Scofield. Robertson's carries Davis (at least they used to); Associated uses Scofield. If you know the vendor you'll be using you can ask what color system they use and then download a color chart to help you decide. Stay away from greens and blues unless you want to pay a lot. Blacks are expensive and generally not color safe for exterior. Otherwise use a reactive color system. Stains that are only on the surface will look crappy in short order. If you want exposed aggregate, then color imight be a waste of money (depending on the depth of exposure), but a surface retardant finish can look nice. If you want economical vanilla, ask for a light broom finish--it will look nice and be less expensive (and slippery) than a smooth trowel finish). Anyway, ~6CY.

Reinforcement
with #4 (4/8" = 1/2") rebar at 12" OCEW (on center each way) you'll need about 35 sticks; if you go 18" OCEW, you'll need 25. Use chairs; some lazy arses love to pull it up from the ground, but that's pretty shoddy.


Base
Depending upon your soil conditions, you could go SOG (slab on-grade), but it's safer to go with a base. CAB (crushed aggregate base) is nice, but pricey. A "Class II" base should do the job. Figure a 4" section after compaction, which means it can be done as one "drift." IIRC you'd need about 5 cy of Class II base for that. First the soil and then the base need to be compacted well or your expensive little slab might go to hell.

Other considerations
If you have expansive soils (usually meaning a lot of clay), then you'll probably need to go deeper on the base, thickened slab edges, and perhaps a 4,000 psi mix. Soil chemistry might also indicate a 4,000 psi mix; Orange County uses a lot of it. You can consult the city website or even call them. The concrete suppliers might have good advice, but they also hate being responsible (i.e. sued) for more than necessary.

If the truck can't get the chute to the slab, have a few (4?) wheel barrels going so you can unload that truck within 20-30 minutes. Otherwise you'll be paying for stand-by time, and your concrete might start setting up before you're ready--especially if you're stop number 2.

You said you wanted a lift and big tires?