06 Rubicon Lift Recomendations

[WYRD]

hi all I have an 06 Rubi bone stock. I have found some height issues and would like to get a couple more inches of clearance (mostly body). I would like to clear 33" tires.

What lifts work good with the Rubi package?

How much approx should I expect to spend?

Thanks in advance

WYRD

[Schmo]

Hey WYRD,

I'm in the same boat with an 06 Rubi. I put on a 2" RE BB for the time being until I decide the route I want to go. I figure I'll eventually go to 33s and the lifts that I've been looking at are the Rubicon Express, Nth Degree (now out of biz, but getting picked up by AEV), and Full Traction. They all seem to be solid set ups and I've heard good things about each . . . just depends on what you are looking to do. Just about everyone I speak with advises me to go with the Long Arm set up. Hope to see you one the trails one of these days!

[Max7]

2'' Pucks & fender Trimin

hi all I have an 06 Rubi bone stock. I have found some height issues and would like to get a couple more inches of clearance (mostly body). I would like to clear 33" tires.

What lifts work good with the Rubi package?

How much approx should I expect to spend?

Thanks in advance

WYRD

I went with the Nth Degree TJ 2 with Tummy Tucker, stinger, slider, and all new Nth upper and lower control arms. The TT skid gave me 3" and the spring pucks plus rear spring relocators of course 2" totaling 5" clearance without the 33's. I ran that way for a year on 31's and climbed stuff guys with 4" kits and 35's whern't doin. Recently I re shoed with some 33 " BFG mud's. I did a little fender triming but found that if I threw acouple of the stock spring pads under the pucks I got another 3/4 " up front which is really the only problem area. I do not have any rubbing now at all, even with the new 9000 winch. If your not squimish about cutting sheet metal and plan to upgrade eventually to tube fenders anyways then I say chop it, stuff the biggest tires you can in there, and the lowest lift. You'd be surprised what you can climb with a set up like this, I just did the Claw Hammer trail and only took a strap once. I personally don't run a body lift. But there cheap. If I did I would not go over 1". As far as cost NTH/ AEV is probably the most expensive, and will take a couple days to install, but works extremely well on the rocks. I have had issues, but NTH took care of those right away. I don't know if AEV will be as good only time will tell. I'm sure other lift companies would be comparable quality wise you'll have to ask around. Keep researching that's what I did, and be patient. It's worth it.
Best, Max7

[Gwjvw]

Throw a 4in re sa sf kit under it!

I have 33's and i put them on my stock rubi before i installed my lift, they fit,but they were stuffed a little bit,the cheap way depending on what your going to do is just throw a 2in bl and your cool.The cheap way.

[WYRD]

Throw a 4in re sa sf kit under it!

I have 33's and i put them on my stock rubi before i installed my lift, they fit,but they were stuffed a little bit,the cheap way depending on what your going to do is just throw a 2in bl and your cool.The cheap way.

I don't want to go the "cheap" way as I do use my Jeep offroad I have been looking at the pics of your lift and I really like it. Did you have to do any other mods to accompany that one?(drive shaft, brake lines) I see you did your own install too, how difficult was that and how much did a shop want too charge you for the install?
Sorry I am asking so many questions, just trying to get a fill for all my options before I buy.

what is the difference between a long arm and a standard arm lift, and do most of the major companies offer both.

Thanks everybody for all your help

WYRD

[flatpoint]

Just my 2 cents. I just went with RE 4 1/2" SF kit, with 3 1/2" springs.(12.5x33 MT MTZ's on 15x8 AE wheels,06 LJ Rubi) and Im very happy. Granted, I dont push it real hard yet,But the flex,and the street manners have sold me,but Im still a pup at this stuff.

[Kodiak Spirit]

long arm kits are better on road than the short arm kits, they are close to the same off road, 'cept the long arms do hit the rocks, the short arms not so much. I know the short arm kits git squirrely on road.

Just about any kit you do is going to require you to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on you transfer case, (fixed yoke) and that is also gonna require a longer rear drive shaft. these units can usually be bought together for a reduced price, your looking at $400 easy. The fixed yoke kit can be done in the garage, takes a few hours if you have never done it before, lots of people here have done it so you can prolly find help.

The install on the lift depends on if you go bolt on or weld on, the welded kits are much better in my opinion, but the bolt on kits work, and you can git the stuff welded later.

you can also do the fixed yoke and drive shaft in advance, and drive it for a while while you save the dough for the lift kit.

there isnt alot you can do like that, but that is one thing you can do in "stages"

1)fixed yoke, drive shaft

2)lift kit, shocks

3)gears and lockers

4)rims and tires

3&4 can swap depending on tire size, and you might get away with not gearing if you get 33's or less... what rear axle do you have? if it's a D35, you are not gonna want any bigger that 33" tires...

hope that helps...

[WYRD]

long arm kits are better on road than the short arm kits, they are close to the same off road, 'cept the long arms do hit the rocks, the short arms not so much. I know the short arm kits git squirrely on road.

Just about any kit you do is going to require you to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on you transfer case, (fixed yoke) and that is also gonna require a longer rear drive shaft. these units can usually be bought together for a reduced price, your looking at $400 easy. The fixed yoke kit can be done in the garage, takes a few hours if you have never done it before, lots of people here have done it so you can prolly find help.

The install on the lift depends on if you go bolt on or weld on, the welded kits are much better in my opinion, but the bolt on kits work, and you can git the stuff welded later.

you can also do the fixed yoke and drive shaft in advance, and drive it for a while while you save the dough for the lift kit.

there isnt alot you can do like that, but that is one thing you can do in "stages"

1)fixed yoke, drive shaft

2)lift kit, shocks

3)gears and lockers

4)rims and tires

3&4 can swap depending on tire size, and you might get away with not gearing if you get 33's or less... what rear axle do you have? if it's a D35, you are not gonna want any bigger that 33" tires...

hope that helps...

I have the 4:11 Gear Ratio so I think I will be ok with 33" and I have the Dana 44 front and rear with the Tru-Lock lockers, I know they are not the greatest but for what I want to do with it (trail rides mostly) I think they will work for the time being. I was planning on leaving it stock because I do use it for hwy driving quite a bit (I drive the cajon pass) but I have encountered some height issues with the pumpkins and the rock rails is some areas of Big Bear. I have 30" tires now and could easily clear 31" with the factory Rubicon suspension (which I may end up trying) I was quoted a price of $ 1,800.00 with bilstein shocks for THIS LIFT installed. But I dont that includes the yoke or drive shaft mods. Is that a fair price or could I find it for a better deal? That is the short arm lift right?

It says that the Rubicon's have the NP241 transfer case and only needs a bolt on rear CV driveshaft, am I reading that correctly?

Thanks

WYRD

[flatpoint]

Is your Rubi a stick, or an auto? I just did the lift/33" deal on my 06 Rubi auto.Wanting 4.56 or 4.88s at this point.Drops out of OD. on a small grade,or a headwind all the time now.Also could use a lower ratio for 4WD/high range,first gear.(steep hills).

[Kodiak Spirit]

I'm sorry WYRD, I'm a bonehead, I didn't see the "Rubicon" part of your avatar and I wrote a book. I just git so excited! flatpoint is right, most want a deeper gear set for 33" tires, its not just the size, it's the weight.

[WYRD]

Is your Rubi a stick, or an auto? I just did the lift/33" deal on my 06 Rubi auto.Wanting 4.56 or 4.88s at this point.Drops out of OD. on a small grade,or a headwind all the time now.Also could use a lower ratio for 4WD/high range,first gear.(steep hills).

I have the 6 speed Tranny and do not have the hard top so that saves me a little weight. Stock I can pull the pass at 70 no problem and 75 if I really push it @ 3000rpm in fifth instead of sixth. Would a 33" tire make that unbearable? most of my climbing I use 4wd low and a 2nd or 3rd gear instead of 2wd high so I doubt the higher gear ratio would affect me in 4wd high, except maybe for snow.

Thanks

WYRD

[WYRD]

I'm sorry WYRD, I'm a bonehead, I didn't see the "Rubicon" part of your avatar and I wrote a book. I just git so excited! flatpoint is right, most want a deeper gear set for 33" tires, its not just the size, it's the weight.

ya bonehead J/K LOL

[Kodiak Spirit]

well shoot, when we goin' wheelin' ?!

[WYRD]

well shoot, when we goin' wheelin' ?!

Prob headed to Calico this weekend to take the kids to the Halloween shindig, would be up for some wheelin...

[Gwjvw]

Sorry for the late response but i have been out camping/trail at calico. 33's with my 4:10s suck. If i had to go up the pass id quit my job or regear,but it can be done. I will regear one day to 4:56 maybe 48,When mine was stock with the 31's it sucked going up to big bear,no power! So if 4:56 makes it stock gearing with my 33's then i will go 48 b/c it needs it.
As for the lift Yes i had to do all kinds of crap that they dont tell you.Fabbing, custom crap and more crap. and welding.
Would i want to do the install myself again "NO"
Short arm kit "Yes"
Installing a sye (transfer case split)"No"
$1000 to have the la kit installed "id just pay for it" Even if i had to pimp myself out for the money (Shouldnt take to long to get the money)

Long arm is worth it if you want to spend the xtra $$$$$$$$






But thats IMO