I'm doing a complete new drive train in my '79 cj 7, dana 44s, transmission, and transfercase. I'm wondering if before I buy my new drive shafts it it would be a good idea to move the rear springs back to the end of the frame. I hve seen guys get about 3 or 4 inches of wheel base this way. Any pros or cons to this? Seems like the stability would be nice. Any comments welcome, Thanks.
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I stretched the wheelbase on my TJ about 6" (4 in the front and 2 in the rear).
The biggest issue for me was the gas tank. I would have had to move it to get any more stretch out of it. Since I have kids and need my back seat, this was not a good option for me.
I LOVE the stability, but I also went to full-width axles. The longer wheelbase helps in climbs, but in some things it hurts. My turning radius is worse now, which isn't a major problem, but tight trails get to be a little more work. Overall, though, I'm very happy with the results.'96 XJ, HP D30 front, XJ D44 rear, Lockright/E-Locker, 4.56's, Cobra CB, 33" Pro Comp xTreme MT's, SYE, Smittybilt XRC10 winch with Synth Rope, mutt lift.
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thanks for the feed back. I am going with full width dana 44's. That is part of the reason I thought the extra legth would be good. Seems to go with the width.'79 cj7, SOA. shackle reverse, custom cage, flow master, holly carb, 35" maxxis tires, custom bumpers and rockers, dana 44's locked, bead locks
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If you have the clearence behind the axle, then go for it. Search for posts by "Aston" he streched his YJ and has some nice pics and info to go along with it.
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longer springs?
Do most people who do this use longer spring or move the front mounts back to? Not sure which would be better. Are longer spring beneficial?'79 cj7, SOA. shackle reverse, custom cage, flow master, holly carb, 35" maxxis tires, custom bumpers and rockers, dana 44's locked, bead locks
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You can use XJ rear springs,just move the rear mount back.
The center pin is also located further back on the XJ springs.
Just make sure you have room for your pumpkin and the gas tank.
What tranny and t-case are you changing over to?
I am in the middle of doing a Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear swap on my CJ-7,leaving them full width.
I used the Rancho 44044 rear springs and moved my Rancho 2-1/2" lift rear springs up front.
Don.
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I putting in "built" dana 44's with ARB lockers. I am also going from a three speed stick to a 999 transmission along with a dana 300 transfer case. I don't know which drive shafts I am going to do yet.'79 cj7, SOA. shackle reverse, custom cage, flow master, holly carb, 35" maxxis tires, custom bumpers and rockers, dana 44's locked, bead locks
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What is the distance along the frame. Or attachment to attachment on the xj springs? I just want to see how far back I will have to go. Any pros or cons to this as opposed to moving the front mont back also and going with the same length spring?'79 cj7, SOA. shackle reverse, custom cage, flow master, holly carb, 35" maxxis tires, custom bumpers and rockers, dana 44's locked, bead locks
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I stretch mine using XJ springs flipped around. Gave me 8" of wheelbase. The onlky issue was the fuel tank and axle housing issue. But that allowed my to cut up some 1/8" plate and make my own custom fuel tank. All in all, I got 2.5" Rancho leaves up fron SOA, and 3.5" XJ BDS springs in the back (sans helper springs) SOA, my wheelbase with a SRS is about 103.5"
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[QUOTE=peteyg;75282]I stretched the wheelbase on my TJ about 6" (4 in the front and 2 in the rear).
I don't want to hijack the thread, but.....did you have to re-work the steering box or use one from an Astro van to get the 4" stretch in front. Pic's of your set up would help alot....getting ready for full widths and would like to stretch the front more than 1" or 2"
Cannon, BTF and others make a kit for rear leaf stretch....it will obviously take more than this
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/shop/pro...products_id=75
I hope it helps some.........I was thinking about doing a rear leaf stretch in back and coilovers in front, then decided to go with coilovers all the way around on my TJ. If I were leaf sprung(CJ, YJ....etc) I'd probably keep it that way, but that's me and my 2 sence....sents....pennys worth1997 TJ hp44/hp60-a lot of goodies
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[QUOTE=sam 15;76967]Originally posted by peteyg View PostI stretched the wheelbase on my TJ about 6" (4 in the front and 2 in the rear).
I don't want to hijack the thread, but.....did you have to re-work the steering box or use one from an Astro van to get the 4" stretch in front. Pic's of your set up would help alot....getting ready for full widths and would like to stretch the front more than 1" or 2"
Cannon, BTF and others make a kit for rear leaf stretch....it will obviously take more than this
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/shop/pro...products_id=75
I hope it helps some.........I was thinking about doing a rear leaf stretch in back and coilovers in front, then decided to go with coilovers all the way around on my TJ. If I were leaf sprung(CJ, YJ....etc) I'd probably keep it that way, but that's me and my 2 sence....sents....pennys worth
Here's my steering:
That's 1.25 x 1 DOM sleeved with 1.5 x 1.25 DOM with 3/4" Chromoly Heims.
The knuckles are milled to remove the excess taper and then bored through with an end mill. The steering arm is a Blue Torch Fabworks arm on a milled and drilled Ford knuckle.
On the Jeep
Close-up view
All finished!
And yeah, I've seen the BTF rear leaf setup. It's way nice, but I was going for ultra-cheap on this build. I achieved my goals.'96 XJ, HP D30 front, XJ D44 rear, Lockright/E-Locker, 4.56's, Cobra CB, 33" Pro Comp xTreme MT's, SYE, Smittybilt XRC10 winch with Synth Rope, mutt lift.
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[QUOTE=peteyg;76972]Originally posted by sam 15 View Post
I did not have to make any mods to the steering box, but I did have to go back to a standard pitman arm.
Here's my steering:
That's 1.25 x 1 DOM sleeved with 1.5 x 1.25 DOM with 3/4" Chromoly Heims.
The knuckles are milled to remove the excess taper and then bored through with an end mill. The steering arm is a Blue Torch Fabworks arm on a milled and drilled Ford knuckle.
On the Jeep
Close-up view
All finished!
And yeah, I've seen the BTF rear leaf setup. It's way nice, but I was going for ultra-cheap on this build. I achieved my goals.
Hate to ask, but could you tell me a little more about your front stretch. What did you do to relocate the spring buckets? how about the track bar mount on the frame, did you move it forward ? How far over you axle does the drag link sit now, and how did it effect your steering?.Did you lose some steering throw when turning left?
Any photos and info would be greatly appreciated!!
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Originally posted by rdelling View Post
Hate to ask, but could you tell me a little more about your front stretch. What did you do to relocate the spring buckets? how about the track bar mount on the frame, did you move it forward ? How far over you axle does the drag link sit now, and how did it effect your steering?.Did you lose some steering throw when turning left?
Any photos and info would be greatly appreciated!!
Look a little closer at the pics....
That is NOT a Jeep axle or suspension. It's Ford. The coil buckets on the frame are in their stock position. The buckets on the axle were moved back and in from the stock Ford location. The Ford knuckles move the steering way out, so the drag link and track bar never touch. The drag link sits in front of the axle. I did have to get rid of my drop pitman arm and go back to a stock TJ arm instead. The length of the radius arms and where they mount on the frame in front of the skid pan determined the location of the axle. It all just seemed to fall together.
But, everything lined up really nice. We were pleasantly surprised that everything worked so well. I expected to have steering problems, but did not. There is ZERO bump steer, and it turns reasonably well. I feel like I lost just a little left turn, but so far I haven't been able to prove it beyond a gut feeling. I can still turn the wheel lock to lock, so I guess that's good enough.
A side note...Now with two hammers trips and one Stoddard trip on it, I can say that the new DOM-sleeved DOM concept has proven itself worthy. I have beat the CRAP out of this tie rod, and I can say that this is the first aftermarket one I have ever had that did not bend. I'm super happy with it.'96 XJ, HP D30 front, XJ D44 rear, Lockright/E-Locker, 4.56's, Cobra CB, 33" Pro Comp xTreme MT's, SYE, Smittybilt XRC10 winch with Synth Rope, mutt lift.
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Originally posted by peteyg View PostLook a little closer at the pics....
That is NOT a Jeep axle or suspension. It's Ford. The coil buckets on the frame are in their stock position. The buckets on the axle were moved back and in from the stock Ford location. The Ford knuckles move the steering way out, so the drag link and track bar never touch. The drag link sits in front of the axle. I did have to get rid of my drop pitman arm and go back to a stock TJ arm instead. The length of the radius arms and where they mount on the frame in front of the skid pan determined the location of the axle. It all just seemed to fall together.
But, everything lined up really nice. We were pleasantly surprised that everything worked so well. I expected to have steering problems, but did not. There is ZERO bump steer, and it turns reasonably well. I feel like I lost just a little left turn, but so far I haven't been able to prove it beyond a gut feeling. I can still turn the wheel lock to lock, so I guess that's good enough.
A side note...Now with two hammers trips and one Stoddard trip on it, I can say that the new DOM-sleeved DOM concept has proven itself worthy. I have beat the CRAP out of this tie rod, and I can say that this is the first aftermarket one I have ever had that did not bend. I'm super happy with it.
If you get time, could you post or send me some more photos of the spring locations, steering, and the your front suspention set up..
Thanks
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