4" Lift-Do I Need Axle Shims?

[Kman]

I'm getting ready to install the used Skyjacker 4" softride springs in my CJ5.I bought 6 degree wedges(I f'd up because I could have added the 6 degrees to the pinion when I welded the spring pads on the Dana 44).When I set the shims on the springs the center bolt is covered.Should I make spacers to space the center bolts above the shims?The stock shackles are 3" center to center and the Revolver shackles are 4 1/2" center to center.Do I even need the shims?Also the heads of the center bolts are 1/2" in diameter and the center holes in the Mr.Gasket #6280 spring pads are 11/16" do I need to make sleeves to tighten this up?

[Davisrats]

I have shims in the front, I unbolted the spring pack and added the STEAL shims under the centering bolt. Aluminum will deform and the ubolts will loosen up.

In the back, check the pinion angle, if it is good or you have no drive line vibs leave the shim out.
The centering bolt is important. Put the shim under the center bolt or weld it to the spring pad.

IMHO

[aston]

I agree that the centering pins are very important. The pins must locate in the axle pads. If the pins you have don't work get a grade 8 bolt and grind/file the head until it fits just right.

The shims will do two things: change the caster angle and the drive shaft angle. In my case a compromise was in order: I traded some caster to ease the drive shaft angle.

As mentioned, only use steel shims.

Do a dry run and see what you have, other shim angles are available if needed.

btw while you have the whole mess apart use new U bolts.

[rick]

If this is on the front, I would grind the spring pads off and weld them back on with the correct angle. I just installed my front 44, and in the process of tearing down to have an ARB installed, I found the front spring pad was in the way of the housing spreader. I was really bummed about this, but once I started grinding, it only took a few minutes. Welding back on is also quick and not that big a deal. I also have the rear axle out and I went out and bought new steel shims for the rear because one of my aluminum ones had cracked in half, but I think I'm going to grind the rear pads off and reset as well so I don't need the shims. One less thing to worry about. If you do use the shims, your best bet is to go down to the 4WD shop and buy new centering pins of the appropriate diameter for your springs. The pin should go through the shim and the spring leaves. Cut the excess bolt off and you're good to go.

[Kman]

This is for the rear axle.Where are you guys getting your steel shims?The catalogs I have only list aluminum ones.I certainly like the idea of steel shims over aluminum.I was able to sleeve the axle pads for the center bolts.I should be good to go other than the steel shims!I think I'll end up doing the CV rear driveshaft.

[aston]

Take a look at Blue Torch Fabworks

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/c...93b483d77c4b73

[Kman]

Aston thanks for the link.I ordered the 6 degree steel wedges.A lot of dicking around getting through their site.But I got them ordered!The lift will stay out for another week I guess but no sense in doing it twice.I've been collecting parts for almost 2 years and since the career change I have finally had some time to work on the Jeep!

[Kman]

My 6 degree STEEL shims from Blue Torch Fabworks arrived today!!YAY!! As soon as I'm done installing the front axle I can now start on the rear.It's been a hectic week -work wise.A side note on installing the '75 front Dana 30.My '83 had shock mounts welded to the axle housing and the sway bar mounts were on the spring u-bolt plates,on the '75 axle the shocks bolted to studs on the spring u-bolt plates. .I scavenged a set of '79 front spring u-bolt plates that had both shock mounts and sway bar mounts on them.