I think the big factor is. It's not about arm length, it's about wheel base.
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Short arm vs. Long Arm
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Originally posted by curtis View PostI think the big factor is. It's not about arm lenght, it's about wheel base.
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if your doing washed out fire roads on the weekends, playing in the mud, or think that john bull is EXTREME! then stick to short arm. It'll last you 10 yrs... If your more of a J Valley guy and enjoy flying through woops and going up V notches that will send you to the insurance adjuster for yourself and the jeep if you mess up a line, you'll want to start going custom. If your anywhere in between those two, a LA kit might be in order (store bought). Clayton with JJ's at both ends, 4 linked rear will be a wonderful 1st step if you wanna go LA. Wish I would of went that route from the very get go, but my LA set up is fine for what I do. Just know your limits and expect to upgrade sooner or later.1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!
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Clayton rear stretch kit is for the birds. Drove one that thing was downright dangerous till we stuck a genright rear sway bar in it.
You could flop the thing at will, little bit of throttle while turning the wheel would lay it on it's side
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Originally posted by aw12345 View PostClayton rear stretch kit is for the birds. Drove one that thing was downright dangerous till we stuck a genright rear sway bar in it.
You could flop the thing at will, little bit of throttle while turning the wheel would lay it on it's side1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!
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You cannot change much about the geometry. Cannot be done without cutting and welding though. Needed a stiff rear swaybar to get the thing to behave. The rear tire just wanted to tuck under the Jeep, quite scary to drive. Didn't climb very well either
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Originally posted by aw12345 View PostYou cannot change much about the geometry. Cannot be done without cutting and welding though. Needed a stiff rear swaybar to get the thing to behave. The rear tire just wanted to tuck under the Jeep, quite scary to drive. Didn't climb very well either1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!
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Originally posted by brokenujoint View PostI actually like the setup I have. RE LA's front and rear, front uppers have JJ's front rear, 4" RE coils(wouldnt mind some coilovers) currie front trackbar, currie antirock, Currie rear trackbar, and reservoir shocks. Plan to JJ all arms, outboard the rear shocks and thats it for suspension. Does me well. I know it's far from bada55 but I like it.
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Originally posted by aw12345 View PostIf it works for ya and gets you where you want to go, then that's all that matters right?1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!
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A few weeks ago I helped a friend change his RE long arm on his LJ. We Changed all bushings to JJ and Triangulated the upper rear arms and removed the track bar. It made a big difference in the jeeps handling on and offroad. The front end doesn't unload and the rear doesn't wiggle waggle around.IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!
Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!
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Originally posted by curtis View PostA few weeks ago I helped a friend change his RE long arm on his LJ. We Changed all bushings to JJ and Triangulated the upper rear arms and removed the track bar. It made a big difference in the jeeps handling on and offroad. The front end doesn't unload and the rear doesn't wiggle waggle around.
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I vote LA. Just make sure whatever kit you get is compatable with a belly up skid. Alot of kits ca mounts are in a drop bracket. So do thorough research, and know what your getting into. Finding out you overlooked something, when your jeep is in pieces in your garage, is no beuno.It was like that when I got here.
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My two cents. Go long arm, change controls to JJ's, remove rear track bar and put truangulated 4 link. If money serves right, itriangulate the front. Upgrade the control arm mounts
I am running RE 5.5" LA. I have changed all my joints to JJ. I had to do this when RE was in the process of being bought out be 4 wheel parts. I upgraded the rear to the RE tri link and removed the rear track bar. As Curtis said this really let's the suspension cycle and gets rid of the wiggle waggle. I recently put king coilovers by genright on and have see /felt a huge difference in performance on the trail. I run 35" tires a d would like to go 37" one day. Otherwise this set up works for me. As for hitting supper difficult and technical trials like JV, I haven't put the jeep through those paces, however the jeep will probrably out perform the drivers abilities.
I unfortunately do not have the time nor tools to do all this, I had to have a shop do all mods.
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Originally posted by Hook&Ladder View Post.. however the jeep will probrably out perform the drivers abilities.[COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
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Originally posted by one_crf_pilot View PostGreetings, my 2004 TJ currently has a 4" Pro-Comp short arm...uppers are stock. stock D-30 and D-35 with 4:56 ARB's.
Getting ready to set up for 35's and am looking for a new lift. I am looking at changing to D-44's front and rear, x-fer case, high steer, belly up, and lift. 4-wheel parts is telling me theres nothing wrong with a short arm lift, easier to install and less related mods underneath...
Are there specific advanteges with a short arm that I can hang my hat on vs. going with a long arm lift?
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