Step-by-step and list...please help!!!

[61Willys]

I know, I know...do a search. I did.

And I came up with a bunch of things that will need to be done to my 2000 TJ when I lift her. The thing is, no one has a detailed list...everyone said something different, but what do I need, and what's optional?

Here's what I sorta know:
First, I get the lift, tires, wheels. Then, I drop her off at the shop. With the lift should be (?) new springs, (?) new shocks (???)...and what?
I'm only looking to bring her up 2.5" to fit 33x12.5 tires. Is this enough?

And backspacing...I want that bad-assed jeep look, but I still want it to look like a jeep. I only want to bring the tires out about 2" or so. What's the translation into backspacing?

Main point: What will need to be done with the lift? Tranfer case? Nuts & bolts? I am an "automotively challenged" chick, and want to plan out EXACTLY what will be done so I can bring all this stuff to my lift-guy.

Thanks in advance for all your help!
Kim

Sidenote: This jeep is my daily drive. She may go off road here and there, but more for mudpuddles and playing around than flexing and rockcrawling. The 1961 Willys is the jeep for that. That's why we've got two.

[JeepGal]

First off, to fit 33's youre going to need more then 2 1/2" of lift. This can be accomplished by adding either a 1" spacer or body lift. Youd probably be happier with a body lift, as it will raise your body so you can fit your tire on the existing tire carrier as a temporary measure, until youre ready to buy a bumper/swingout (try Rock-itman.com for a VERY nice one at a GREAT price)

The lift should include springs, shocks, tcase drop (only use if if necessary),control arms. A body lift should include either a radiator drop kit or a motor mount lift (MML). Stay away from fixed control arms if you can. Do a bit of shopping and then post what you find here, and the guys will chime in with their preferences. I WAS NOT happy with my Rancho Lift. The control arms were a VERY bad design, and the company would offer to give me new bushings, but NEVER did...even though they offered multiple times. Obviously they no longer answer my phone calls. Id highly suggest RE, I know there are alot of people that I wheel with that love this lift, but Im not sure if it comes in 2 1/2"'s. Good luck and happy shopping!

As far as backspacing goes, what wheels do you currently have, are you planning on keeping them and if not, what did you have in mind? Id avoid spacers if possible. Get the AR767's, nice affordable steel wheels. The spacers will cost you just about as much and its just one more thing to mess with.

Keeping the suspension lift under 3" should keep you from having to get a SYE, and more then likely youll get away without having any vibes. Its also possible that you wont need a T-case drop.

What youre trying to accomplish is what my set-up currently is. In actuality, mine does pretty well in the rocks. You may find that you start taking her out more and more often in the rocks then you thought you might

And as far as being an "automotively challenged chick", youre doing just fine, it comes in time, I was there once, not too long ago, and still am quite often

HTH

Tam

[61Willys]

I did some research, and did find the RE standard 3.5" for about $540. It includes the 1" T-Case lowering kit, but no control arms. Is this going to be a problem? I am trying to avoid needing an upgrade less than a year after the initial install. And, I don't want to spend every weekend at the mechanic's!!!
Thanks for the input. It helped alot!
I am currently lookijng to put the black, sim-beadlock Crager Series 352's on her (15x10) and the Firestone Destination M/T's at 33x12.5. Think all that will fit under the 3.5"?
And what are the reviews for the RE standard? How long did it hold out for you? What were the pros and cons? Did you end up needing additional goodies to make her work out for you? Shimmy's & Shakes???

Thanks!
Kim

[goodtimes]

Hi Kim!

Unfortunately, there is no cut and dry answer here. Different manufacturers include different parts in their lift kits. How far up you go will also play a key role, as will weather or not you have (or will have) a slip yolk eliminator kit installed. Are you willing to sacrafice some clearance under the belly of your jeep in order to continue to use the stock driveshaft? And of course, how much money are you willing to spend?

I know people who run 33" tires with a simple "budget boost" (which is basically longer shocks and some spacers for the springs, and spacers for the bump stops), and they are happy with it. Then I know others (like me) who want more performance, and had to spend considerably more money to accomplish their goals.

If you are driving strictly on the street, and some very mild off-roading, it is very possible for you to go the cheap route and buy a budget boost from some place like kb-offroad (see banner at the top of the page....he distributes for quite a few companies, and gave me a great deal on my suspension parts).

You could step up a notch in performance and buy a kit that uses new (longer) springs instead of spacers, and possibly new lower control arms. There are several kits out there that fit into this category (rancho, BDS, superlift, etc).

From there you can go up another notch to the top end of the "short arm" kits, which will include new upper and lower control arms, brake lines, track bar(s), springs, and other assorted parts to make your suspension work even better.

And of course then we get into the long arm kits, which are really expensive (figure $2200+ for the kit, then another $1500 or so for the rest of the junk you will need to make it all work).

So, you can probably see why there is no "cut in stone" answer. But there are some good rules of thumb. First, you get what you pay for (unless your name is Erik). Second, if you go over about 2.5" of lift, you add alot of cost to your kit because you will probably (I said probably) have to add a new rear driveshaft, which will also require a way to rotate the pinion up.....usually accomplished by adjustable control arms. Once you start getting into 3+" of lift, you will want to look at new track bars too. Go beyond 4.5" or so, and you really should look into the "long arm" kits to regain some sembalance of ride quality.

Lots of options out there.......it really boils down to what you can afford, and what level of performance you want.



edit**** Huh....I could have sworn Tam hadn't replied before I started typing. Oh well.....I guess you should avoid the rancho kit.....

As for the RE 3" standard kit. That comes with the same springs I got with my 4.5" kit (I had them substitute in the shorter springs). I ended up having to install a CV driveshaft, which requires the use of adjustable upper control arms. The lift worked out to 4" of actual lift, when new. The springs will likely settle in the coming months. No trouble clearing 33's with that amount of lift, in fact, I have room to spare.

[jmbrowning]

Super cheap lift to get to 33"

I've mentioned it before, but what the heck.

1) Front V8 ZJ springs- swap these in for your fronts and put the TJ fronts in rear. 2.5" lift in the I6 and 3" in the 4 cylinder.
2) Low buck adjustable control arms from Nth Degree
3) Your fave cheapo shocks (pro-comp or just beg around for an older used set)
4) 1" body lift as needed
5) rehang brake lines instead of getting longer ones
6) forget backspacing, just put washers for the steering stops to keep the fronts from rubbing
7) remove flares and associated rub/stuff problems
8) if you have vibes include a motor mount lift with the body lift to improve driveshaft angle

Heh, that is a pretty bootyfab way to do it (not quite how I did mine), but how I might consider doing an extra Jeep lying around for light play use.

Your mileage may vary.
Previous returns are not guarantees of future performance.
Caution: contents are very hot.

[Hopi]

Do what most helpless Chicks like yourself do....have your boyfriend do it.
STOP ! Just kidding ! Keep those angry responses to yourself, I'm just kidding. Kim is my G/F and I'm just teasing her. Whew !
Gary

[sarah]

Kim is my G/F and I'm just teasing her. Whew !
Gary

i just figured that out!!! boy i'm slow.
aww, you two are so cuuuute!

[Hopi]

The funny thing is Sarah, I didnt even know she was registered on this site. I got all excited thinking there was someone else here with a 1961 Willy's CJ5. LOL ! :shade:
Gary

[goodtimes]

I got all excited thinking there was someone else here with a 1961 Willy's CJ5. LOL ! :shade:
Gary

D'oh!!!

You gotta hate it when that happens!

rotf

[sarah]

The funny thing is Sarah, I didnt even know she was registered on this site. I got all excited thinking there was someone else here with a 1961 Willy's CJ5. LOL ! :shade:
Gary

ROFL!! She is WAY too cool

[61Willys]

Every now and then, a girls gotta get a bit sneaky.....

<<<evil grin>>>

[tjrubicon]

You can find decent lifts on ebay, that's where I got mine. I got a 4 inch Rough Country that came with springs, shocks with boots, tcase lowering shims, 4 lower control arms, swaybar links, dropped pitman arm(not sure if I need to use it though) front & rear trackbar relocator brackets and all the hardware for installation. I paid 420 bucks plus shipping for a total of 494 bucks. I've seen the RE 3.5 standard kit for 539 and the 4.5 super flex kit for 1400 bucks I think(give or take a few bucks).

If I don't work this weekend, I'll be putting my lift on and then I'll have some parts for sale. But, when that time comes I'll post it in the appropriate place. It'll be my 2 inch spacers, 4 ProComp shocks and stock Rubicon springs, which I've heard are 1 inch taller than other TJ springs. I think, but I'm not sure, that a set up like that would clear 33s.

[mparker]

SYE or no SYE

Most lifts of 3" or more come with a transfer case drop.... If you are going to lift the suspension by 3 inches or more I strongly suggest the SYE.

I had a problem with my transfer case because I figured I would just run with the drop spacers.

I thought I was fine because I got absolutely no driveline vibes. However the stress i was putting on my transfer case was enough that I wore out my output shaft bearings in under 20K miles, I also had to replace the chain because something about the stress put a lot of slack in the chain.

-M