Upgrade question

[Guest]

Im thinking about upgrading from a 3.5" RE SuperFlex to either a 4.5" or 5.5" long arm. I have currie correct link and HD adjustable TB. I am sure I will need a dropped pitman arm, but beyond that I am not sure. What other parts will I need to install, or look into installing, to get this upgrade right?

Thanks for your insight!

HOOYAH!!!
Dan

[Mike]

If you can find a solution that avoids a dropped pitman arm, I recommend that you pursue it. The dropped pitmans have a nasty habit of cracking. I am running a 4" lift with the Currie HD CorrectLink and I am still using my stock pitman without any bump steer issues.

Are you staying with RE for the new lift? They tend to have bushing issues from what I hear. Some users can probably chime in to confirm or rebuke this.

If you are buying a full kit, it should come with all the parts that you will need (including the dropped pitman and adjustable TB). If you are doing a custom set up, there are some folks on here that can definitely help better than me.

[JK08]

Dan

When I was Looking around I saw a Rubicon Express set up that was pretty complete. For your model it is the RE7500 SERIES TJ EXTREME DUTY LONG ARM TRI-LINK SYSTEM. Looks like a lot of work but may pay off. I am not sure at what hight you need to change your Drive shaft?

Or this is kinda interesting if you have some coin to spend on a lift.

[Guest]

@Mike no, I'm not staying with RE. I've changed my bushings already, and now that 4wheelparts (don't remember the parent co.) owns RE they will likely switch to a cheaper supplier. I'm not stating fact, I'm just not willing to chance it. I will go with a full kit, but even full kits have issues with steering, clearance, drive shaftangles/lengths...I just want to know what I'm getting into so I can plan ahead and learn from other folks.

@Danny love that pinion/diff slider! Is that AEV? Questions like that (drive shaft changes for angle/height) are what I would like to learn from others who have gone this route. I would like to avoid dropping 3-4K on a nice kit only to find that I then have to drop another 1200 on custom drive shafts, or change my steering out completely. I want to have an idea of what to expect before I start buying parts.

HOOYAH!!!
Dan

[Guest]

I wonder if it would be more advantageous to convert to coil over up front, and something completely different out back.

HOOYAH!!!
Dan

[HookandLadder]

For what its worth...

I have a 5.5" RE long arm kit with drop pitman (on an 02' TJ). I have no steering issues. The only issues I had were from the bushings. I have since changed all my bushing ends out to jonny joints from currie. I had to do this when RE was being bought out by 4 wheel parts and the cost was painful, but I am happy now.

After looking at the redesign of RE bushings and end joint, I feel much more confident in them then before, enough so I would buy their kit again.

I do carry a spare drop pitman arm....it doesn't take up much space and stores easily...I would recommend carrying a spare one either way (dropped or stock or?)

Just my two cents...any questions feel free to ask

[JK08]

@Mike no, I'm not staying with RE. I've changed my bushings already, and now that 4wheelparts (don't remember the parent co.) owns RE they will likely switch to a cheaper supplier. I'm not stating fact, I'm just not willing to chance it. I will go with a full kit, but even full kits have issues with steering, clearance, drive shaftangles/lengths...I just want to know what I'm getting into so I can plan ahead and learn from other folks.

@Danny love that pinion/diff slider! Is that AEV? Questions like that (drive shaft changes for angle/height) are what I would like to learn from others who have gone this route. I would like to avoid dropping 3-4K on a nice kit only to find that I then have to drop another 1200 on custom drive shafts, or change my steering out completely. I want to have an idea of what to expect before I start buying parts.

HOOYAH!!!
Dan

Yup AEV i think their kits are like 4g's.

Coilover would be a nice way to go.


http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...ion/index.html

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=GRCSKIT

[Guest]

I see that rock crawler makes a coil over/tri link long arm kit. The build doesn't look too bad either. That might be the way I go. Anyone have experience with RK kits?

HOOYAH!!!
Dan

[Dukes69]

Traditional long arms are rather large rock magnets and heavy to boot. My suggestions are no dropped pitman arm, do not do long arms, go with currie short arms all the way around. You can run the 3.5 coils, which is what I run. AEV/Nth is over priced, poor design, and heavy. You won't gain anything with an off the shelf long arm kit, except a lighter wallet.

A good question to ask is what do you plan on doing with the rig?

[mkjeepers]

Traditional long arms are rather large rock magnets and heavy to boot. My suggestions are no dropped pitman arm, do not do long arms, go with currie short arms all the way around. You can run the 3.5 coils, which is what I run. AEV/Nth is over priced, poor design, and heavy. You won't gain anything with an off the shelf long arm kit, except a lighter wallet.

A good question to ask is what do you plan on doing with the rig?

I also agree with the Duke. I've run the short arms since 2003 and have not been at a disadvantage. The Nth degree is a very good kit, but pricey , plus the install is pretty involved.

If you want something practicle that works, consider just using the Daystar spacers ( 1" to 2") then get the proper length shocks - allowing for the most downtravel W/O having them bottom out. This allows for full articulation. My suggestion for control arms are the JKS brand. They don't have any binding point and come with OEM rubber bushings that won't wear out.

Presently I have the old Teraflex brand. JKS greatly improved their same style. My Teraflex have been on since 2003 and have seen some serious use. Duke, I had a set of Currie w/ Johny Joints and got rid of them. They only twist so far and then reach their binding point - limiting articulation. Plus the fact that the grease fitting channels clog so the grease won't go in and they start to squeek.

I'm running 4" springs with the Daystar spacers - (once I put the winch and bunpers I lost most of my lift) - the spacers haven't been a problem for me.

If your money is burning a hole in your pocket, there are plenty of other good routes you can go. Fred (Flatout) has an excellent set up - I like it even better than Arts - ooooh.

[aw12345]

I also agree with the Duke. I've run the short arms since 2003 and have not been at a disadvantage. The Nth degree is a very good kit, but pricey , plus the install is pretty involved.

If you want something practicle that works, consider just using the Daystar spacers ( 1" to 2") then get the proper length shocks - allowing for the most downtravel W/O having them bottom out. This allows for full articulation. My suggestion for control arms are the JKS brand. They don't have any binding point and come with OEM rubber bushings that won't wear out.

Presently I have the old Teraflex brand. JKS greatly improved their same style. My Teraflex have been on since 2003 and have seen some serious use. Duke, I had a set of Currie w/ Johny Joints and got rid of them. They only twist so far and then reach their binding point - limiting articulation. Plus the fact that the grease fitting channels clog so the grease won't go in and they start to squeek.

I'm running 4" springs with the Daystar spacers - (once I put the winch and bunpers I lost most of my lift) - the spacers haven't been a problem for me.

If your money is burning a hole in your pocket, there are plenty of other good routes you can go. Fred (Flatout) has an excellent set up - I like it even better than Arts - ooooh.

Aren't you a nice guy Mikey, but Fred has a very nice rig, the old man does some really sharp fab work. Nor do his long arm keep him to much from sliding over rocks.
I have gotten good use out of the Currie short arms and they do hold up very well. AEV's long arm kit has some cool features but their rear stinger is prone to cracking and breaking in various places, not does it come cheap.
For a lot of wheelin here in So Cali 3-4" springs good short arm control arms and 35' tires go a long way, the rest spend on lockers and go have a ball
Rock krawler has a fairly decent long arm lift one of my buddy's had a blast with his booger with a long arm rock krawler lift.

[Guest]

What do I want to do with my rig? Continue to crawl! I'm running the RE 3.5" super flex lift on 33s now, and want to get more articulation and get rid of my shovel. I'm not interested in a body lift, and I dont want to build a monster truck. I will never go bigger than 35" tires. I'm in an LJ rubicon, and I am very happy with the stock drivetrain; I have no plans to change gears or lockers from stock. I just want to articulate more and drop the shovel.

I've been watching other rigs and I'm impressed by the tri link rear ends and coil over front.

HOOYAH!!!
Dan

[USMC 0369]

....I will never go bigger than 35" tires....Dan

[COLOR="darkred"]Sorry...had to imortalize this moment. The infamous "last words". Both of the people I know who said this, are on at least 37's now.[/COLOR]

[RAT]

[COLOR="darkred"]Sorry...had to imortalize this moment. The infamous "last words". Both of the people I know who said this, are on at least 37's now.[/COLOR]

Huh? Wa-what?

[dirtman13]

I remember saying that. I can now say in all honesty I will never go bigger the 40's