Retainers

[dktool]

Is it advisable to remove the leaf retainers from the spring packs ?
Can they cause binding to a point where it will limit axle drop ?

Is what you see in these pictures typical spring pack characteristics alignment wise or do I need to loosen everything up and straighten the leafs ?

The u-bolt have always been kept properly torqued, the springs were basically inline when I bought the Jeep although the lift kit had never been used off road. I have twisted it up pretty good since I have had it so maybe this is just where the springs want to be ?

Also, the front shackles seemed to have taken on a out of square set referenced to the frame mount / pivot. Crappy bushings perhaps ?

This is a R.E. 4.5 military wrap set up. See pics:
http://s1025.photobucket.com/albums/y319/dktool/

[6spdYJ]

Okay, do not remove the retainers. Think of them more as guides. If you remove them, the spring pack can fan out - like an Asian paper fan - and catch tires, steering parts etc... Leave them loose enough to be - in a YJ's case - 2 1/2" all the way up. If the cross bolt at the top loosens up, use a stover nut on it. If they fan out, they also lose the way the load is distributed and your handling will change.

To straighten the packs, just lift it by the frame to get the weight off the respective pack and squeeze it back with a c-clamp. They will move a bit. As long as the tips stay within the sides of the leaf they are under, don't worry.

You nailed the shackle off-square issue. Look at the shot showing the top of the shackle going through the frame. The stock bushings always die and have one side squish through the top all the way to the frame. I know I'll get the stink eye for saying it, but... go with poly bushings in the frame eyes. They will not wear out like this in the lifetime of the suspension - unless Dishpan Springs is your driveway.

[dktool]

Okay, do not remove the retainers. Think of them more as guides. If you remove them, the spring pack can fan out - like an Asian paper fan - and catch tires, steering parts etc... Leave them loose enough to be - in a YJ's case - 2 1/2" all the way up. If the cross bolt at the top loosens up, use a stover nut on it. If they fan out, they also lose the way the load is distributed and your handling will change.

To straighten the packs, just lift it by the frame to get the weight off the respective pack and squeeze it back with a c-clamp. They will move a bit. As long as the tips stay within the sides of the leaf they are under, don't worry.

You nailed the shackle off-square issue. Look at the shot showing the top of the shackle going through the frame. The stock bushings always die and have one side squish through the top all the way to the frame. I know I'll get the stink eye for saying it, but... go with poly bushings in the frame eyes. They will not wear out like this in the lifetime of the suspension - unless Dishpan Springs is your driveway.

I had the right front frame bushings out last week to see if they were obviously screwed up but they looked good and are not squished out and they were probably new with the R.E. kit.

I will do the c-clamp move on the springs and see what that does.

Why would poly bushing get a stink-eye response, too rigid ?

[6spdYJ]

Some people think they limit articulation too much. I run them with no shackle stiffener on the front and can fully stuff the tire to the flare with 3" lift and TJ flares. With 32" tires they can drop to the point that the top of the tire is below the bottom line of the rocker panel. I do use a stiffener on the back with the poly's to stop a weird oscilllation I was getting when I took the rear panhard bar out.

[dktool]

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