TJ: Lubign the control arms on RE 3.5 Superflex??

[MrBash]

I called Rubicon Express to ask if the control arms on my TJ need any kind of maintenance after two years of abuse. They recommended that I add some grease in the lower part of the control arms. The lower part doesn't have a rubber bushing it uses some kind of joint with bearings for better flex.

Anyway, there is a place to add grease to the control arm, it's some kind of nut or something sticking out, but how do I do it and what tool do I use?

Thanks in advance.

[xthread]

Grease gun ?????

[RAT]

I called Rubicon Express to ask if the control arms on my TJ need any kind of maintenance after two years of abuse. They recommended that I add some grease in the lower part of the control arms. The lower part doesn't have a rubber bushing it uses some kind of joint with bearings for better flex.

Anyway, there is a place to add grease to the control arm, it's some kind of nut or something sticking out, but how do I do it and what tool do I use?

Thanks in advance.

THe RE control arms have a grease zirk on one side of the Johnny Joint. On the lower control arms, the grease zirks are on the top of the JJ to protect them from rocks; on the uppers, they are on the bottom of the Johnny Joint for the front upper control arms, and on the top of the JJ for the upper rear control arms. You'll need a grease gun with a flexible hose to get into those tight spots. If the JJ's are in good condition it should be pretty hard to force grease into the joint; that means they are tight and adjusted properly. If the grease just goes in real easy and comes out all around the sides of the joints,they need to be removed and rebuilt or adjusted. If you can't get any grease to go in, you may have a joint hat is too tight or clogged with dirt.

[MrBash]

THe RE control arms have a grease zirk on one side of the Johnny Joint. On the lower control arms, the grease zirks are on the top of the JJ to protect them from rocks; on the uppers, they are on the bottom of the Johnny Joint for the front upper control arms, and on the top of the JJ for the upper rear control arms. You'll need a grease gun with a flexible hose to get into those tight spots. If the JJ's are in good condition it should be pretty hard to force grease into the joint; that means they are tight and adjusted properly. If the grease just goes in real easy and comes out all around the sides of the joints,they need to be removed and rebuilt or adjusted. If you can't get any grease to go in, you may have a joint hat is too tight or clogged with dirt.

WOW! Lots of information here indeed. Thank you very much. Gotta go get a grease gun and get down and dirty.,..again.

I just changed the engine oilk and filter, the transfer case fluid, tha manuel tranny fluid, and the front & rear axle lubes.

The front axle was great, no metal shavings.

The rear axle had tons of metal shavings, the damn thing was black and sparkly.

The transfer case fluid drained dark pink like it was new.

The tranny fluid was dark and burnt.

Now everything is running smoother than ever. All I need to do now is re-lube the control arms, get an alignment, buy new tires and I'm good to go.

Currently accepting donations, please send your tax detuctible donations to shantvw@aol.com via paypal....J/K.

Thanks Guys

[inVERt'D]

The rear axle had tons of metal shavings, the damn thing was black and sparkly.

I see on your profile that you have a rear Dana 44, so that probably means you have a Trac-Loc (limited slip) rear end. The crap you see contaminating the gear oil in your rear is no doubt from the trash loc's clutches. 70K miles is considered to be a typical lifespan for street-driven limited slips. A rebuild kit (clutch pack) is about $60.00 IIRC.

[aw12345]

He burned up a rear wheel bearing not to long ago that is most likely where all the metal and burned oil came from. When we swapped another axle shaft in that stuff was just about red hot and smoking

[OU812]

I waited too long to rebuild my Trac-loc and ended up with this. The clutch disks broke apart and got caught up in the ring gear.

[inVERt'D]

He burned up a rear wheel bearing not to long ago that is most likely where all the metal and burned oil came from. When we swapped another axle shaft in that stuff was just about red hot and smoking

Wow. Did something that in an my 66 Ford 1/2-ton years ago. He didn't say the gear oil in the diff was burnt--just that it was black. I should have taken "tons of metal shavings" more literally.

[Jeeperator]

Hey Shant, dont you have a couple of bad RE bushings also. You should order a rebuild kit and redo all the arms bushings while your on a roll with the 100,000 mile maintenence schedule. With those 4.5 inch springs new bushings, greased jj, and all new fluids your good to go. I personally think he has a worn out trac loc limited slip (could be why the oil is black with metal in it). I thought all sport package jeeps came with one & I dont see why his didnt.

[MrBash]

Hey Shant, dont you have a couple of bad RE bushings also. You should order a rebuild kit and redo all the arms bushings while your on a roll with the 100,000 mile maintenence schedule. With those 4.5 inch springs new bushings, greased jj, and all new fluids your good to go. I personally think he has a worn out trac loc limited slip (could be why the oil is black with metal in it). I thought all sport package jeeps came with one & I dont see why his didnt.

Regarding the Trac Loc, I didn't notice any limited slip clutch mechanisms in the rear diff when I changed the lube.
I think I'll crack it back open and take a closer look and spin it around a few more times. I bought the Jeep with 75K on the odometer from a VW dealer and I just passed the 100K mark.

I'm going to regrease the Johnny Joints next Thursday and if it falls into the category of WORN OUT, then I'll get into the rebuild mode. Hopefully, the JJ's are still good because I've got the money saved for 4.56's and some new
33x13.5x15's. Don't really want to spend it on the control arms.

[aw12345]

Shant if the diff carrier looks like this it's a tracklock



The rubber bushings on the control arms are not that expensive and the JJ joints you can adjust is not that big a deal